Toylander 1 Build Thread

  1. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Hello all, here’s my build thread for the ‘Toylander 1’ ride-on children’s car, I’m making for my twin boys. The plans are around £45 delivered, and based on a 1948 Landrover Series 1. More info available here.

    [​IMG]

    There are plenty of build threads online already, however most seem to never finish, or miss photos of the good bits. Especially as I’m using a mobility scooter motor transaxle, making the thing ‘go’ could require some thought, and support, so a thread here seems like a good idea for myself and future builders.

    I requested the plans for Christmas 2016 however only got round to making a start in December 2017. Ive ordered steering wheel, lights, and windscreen kit from Toylander, and although everything is available from Toylander, I will fabricate a lot myself.

    First few posts will cover where I am to-date, then it will slow down as I contend with work and life to get in the garage.

    Cheers, Clav.
     
    8ob, jenki, jpmillermatic and 5 others like this.
  2. awemawson Forum Supporter

    Chris Raynerd built one for his daughter back in 2012 and detailed it on the Madmodder forum. You may find a read through his thread at Madmodder.net informative

    (He has to abandoned the project due to pressure from his other half :fighting: :(:(


    :sheep::sheep::sheep:
     
    Clavin7 and daleyd like this.
  3. Cobbler

    Cobbler Codger bodger

    Messages:
    4,314
    Location:
    Gloucestershire UK
    Didn't Brewdexter build one of these?
     
    brewdexta likes this.
  4. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    The body is constructed from 12mm Moisture Resistant MDF and 19mm square batten. In this case I used Medite, which was readably available from my local timber merchant. Some planning meant I had them cut it strategically so it fitted in my hatch back, yet still remained big enough to make up the parts. Obviously freezing in the garage, the dining room table was used as temporary drawing office!

    8A7949B7-D84C-4104-A6D5-97EA095228D0.jpeg

    The 15m or so of 19mm square PSE batten, had to be machined specially although it turned out to be not as critical as initially thought (20mm would be fine).

    Cutting was done in the garage using a rail saw (borrowed from a friend), a jigsaw, and router (mounted on an arm to produce nice round wheel arches). Although it’s perfectly acceptable to use a jig saw if you don’t have a router. The results can look just as good with patience and a bit of sanding.

    F379CE72-B149-4DF7-AECB-210E9567529D.jpeg
    61461F8A-F90D-469F-A81E-BFF2819DFF2C.jpeg
     
  5. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Thanks, will take a look So far I have full project endorsement...
     
    MCKDAVID likes this.
  6. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    7ABBF26D-B14C-493D-952E-CD770C79A133.jpeg

    I used PVA glue and screws as per build manual to assemble the tub. Found Gorilla glue to be impressive stuff, although most of the joinery grade wood glues end up peeling the front of the mdf off when you’ve messed up...so certainly stronger than the wood like they advertise.

    9C541579-3F41-4094-B776-8D4D3BF13E04.jpeg
    7EDCF410-5305-41C9-8F41-8E29CC22CE04.jpeg
     
    Parm, BarrieJ, magicgrotto and 5 others like this.
  7. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Welcome aboard, Clav :waving:. I like the look of that and will follow your progress. :thumbup:
     
    Clavin7 likes this.
  8. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Moving to the garage, I fitted the aluminium bonnet (late addition to the toylander order) along with rolled front wings. The bonnet has two timber ribs and is glued and nailed together, think it was stix-all or something i used. It ain’t coming apart that’s for sure...

    EE5EC009-D1B6-41BC-B0CA-466C19FFB060.jpeg
    8746C2C2-BE41-4E3C-B747-D4D04DC2007E.jpeg

    Read tailgate also fitted. Chains and bits bought from toolstation.

    F00CA3AC-F23D-4EC7-9F1E-C16098ED7AD0.jpeg
    A5E8F244-262C-40D3-9898-5CA25F7F2D93.jpeg
     
    W.olly, dazza, Fazerruss and 2 others like this.
  9. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Thanks mate, nothing particulary new or adventurous but a) I reckon a build thread will keep me motivated and b) might help others with their builds!
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  10. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Looking good, but a small suggestion/observation if I may :ashamed:. I think I'd have removed the hook ends of the tailgate supports, welded on a ring and fitted a pair of these links - all sizes are available ;). The hooks have 'potential'.......? :confused:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Yeh not a bad idea actually and as it’s all got to come apart again for painting I may just do that...but then again I’ll be keen to get it working so my not care by then :laughing:
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  12. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    I can fully understand your enthusiasm for getting it finished, but a 10 min [max] job for you now v. much pain and/or the possibility of permanent disfigurement for one of the children..........:( :scared:
     
  13. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Sorry, I misread your initial post, thought you were talking from an aesthetic point of view. Now I understand, and yes good point. I forget that rather than a ‘scale model’ this is actually a kids toy. Saving grace is, the tailgate is secured by anti-luce pin so it’s quite difficult for little fingers to open, especially whilst moving, but I agree a potential exists with all pointy hooky things so better remove it...
     
  14. Fazerruss

    Fazerruss Member

    Messages:
    2,335
    West Yorkshire
    Keep the pictures coming, I love builds like these as I'm still a big kid inside.
    I think most of the grown men on this forum are too :D
     
    slim_boy_fat, W.olly, Shox Dr and 2 others like this.
  15. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Early last year I bought an Invacare Meteor from Gumtree for £100. These were over £4K new and have a top speed of 8mph and will take 30st. It was sold as needing new batteries and with a list of other faults which rendered it beyond economical repair. Of course to us engineering types, it was far from BER...requiring new batteries £120 from eBay, (downsized to 50ah from 70ah to fit the batteries in the ‘engine bay’ and a new 5kohm throttle pot (£3 from eBay). The reported braking issues won’t matter to me for this project as I’ll be modyfying it anyway.

    CAB8F7FE-DE78-482B-B2A8-D6CF3595FF55.jpeg

    I plan to use the motor / transaxle, brake, wiring loom, controller and hope to de-solder the panel with the indicators and other micro switches on, so I can use more sensible rocker / toggle switches. The motor is much bigger than I thought so will require some modification to the tub. To maintain the same proportions as the plans I will use chain and sprockets to drive the wheels.
    The controller has a 4mph sticker on and my research suggests it’s not uncommon for mobility scooter service centres to ‘chip’ the controllers, assume in this case for safety reasons. Suits me as 4mph is fast enough :o

    63C81ABC-E4A6-4FE4-9710-440741F22B52.jpeg
     
  16. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    Did some rough filling and sanding whilst I was waiting for bits to turn up, soon be time to turn it over and work on the underside. Bought a little cast iron badge from eBay, not strictly correct for 1948, but it’s just a toy! :ashamed:

    90BEC6B2-9F45-4ECB-82DA-B668C36F6867.jpeg 0731B0B2-F5A1-4696-BCE2-6B7F73A28147.jpeg
     
    andy_v likes this.
  17. Clavin7 Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    East Anglia, UK
    After borrowing old harry from the allotment over the road (it’s a two man lift) we turned the tub over so I could start fabricating the metal work and fix to the underside. I struggled to find the steel initially (walking out of B&Q in shock as you’d expect) but was recommended standley steel at Wymondham who cut everything to size for not much more than £25. Now I’m not a fabricator, nor do I have much experience but I cut and welded as per the plans with reasonable success. Had to stop at one point and fit the extra support arm to my sip migmate (as advised on this forum) which improved performance no end. The wheels were kindly given to me by some random internet bloke who I met via the toylander Facebook page. Some fantastic humans around :thumbup:

    5439AA39-E39D-4EBE-8BD0-0726092B8E41.jpeg
     
  18. Migmac

    Migmac Member

    Messages:
    3,137
    Location:
    Kintyre. Scotland
    The kids will love it.
     
    Clavin7 likes this.
  19. daleyd

    daleyd Member

    Messages:
    5,928
    Location:
    Wrexham, North Wales
    Fantastic work :thumbup:
     
    Clavin7 likes this.
  20. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,074
    uk Bristol
    Couple of point to be aware of with the motor. In your post 15 the second pic, the device mounted to the right hand end of the motor (with the sticker on) is a brake. It need power to release and if you try applying power to just the motor without powering the brake (thin white wires) then the motor won't turn (may fry!). You can remove it (couple of screws) or if you use the control console from the scooter this should operate it. Also the motor/axle assembly should have a release leaver (usually red) that disengages the drive allowing a scooter to be wheeled without the drive stopping it. If you can keep this lever as it allows pushing of the unit. The axle unit is (or should be!) a differential unit an so will suffer the one will spinning while other does not drive. It is possible to "lock" the diff.
    I used one of these drive units for my bead roller, hence locking the diff ! and red lever allows manual feeding when needed.
     
    • WP_20170923_009.jpg
    • WP_20160326_005.jpg
    Wallace, BarrieJ and andy_v like this.
Advertisements