Just got home from the rugby club. Before I left I spent an hour or so banging the taper pin back and forth. It moves but doesn't come out...I'm impressed,
I would have probably scraped it!
Pity they don't mark the "in" side of the pin, so you could be sure you're knocking it out the right way.
The book says this was a "mills pin" - will have to look this up, Maybe originally it was, but defo a taper pin I removed. I'm guessing a mills is like a springly rolled over thing with a split down it's length?If it is a taper pin, one end is smaller diameter than the other. This is often difficult to determine with just a Mk. 1 eyeball, but if you have a set of drill bits, poking the shank into both ends of the hole can help.
When installing the new ones, it helps to make the small end hemispherical and the large end just lightly crowned so it gives a visual reference for the next person.
Anyone else have any theories? Perhaps the old fritz needs a rebuild, or at least an accuracy check. This work is realy at the edge of it's capability, had to use the large flycutter to get over the whole thing...
I’ve test fitted the carriage on the knee, the gib strip is slack. Do I need a new one or can I glue a strip of brass shim to the one I have, or the dovetail?Well that bit got machined and scraped, and with my new slip gauges I know what the discrepancy is between the upper and lower bits (over a thou...).
I also checked the difference on the knee top, and that’s 2thou front to back..
Biax is broken, how do you take down 2 thou? Die grinder of course...
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