Some of the smart and brown tailstocks can be adjusted in and out for a shallow taper. Two Allen heads on the lower bottom either side
To avoid stepping over the tailpost (a pain going both ways), one can use a boring head in the tailstock
You quoted me. Makes no difference to my post. My post specifically related to an option to avoid disturbing the tailstock setting. That was all.It doesn't matter whether you use a boring head, a purpose-made toolpost taper attachment, or just set the tailstock over, there are very definite limits to how much you can offset a centre and still expect it to perform its function.
There's one for the smart and brown on ebay now. £500:00.You quoted me. Makes no difference to my post. My post specifically related to an option to avoid disturbing the tailstock setting. That was all.
The obvious route, if doing a lot of long tapered turning, is to buy or make a proper taper turning attachment which attaches to the lathe bed and cross slide. They are not rocket science. Downside is that original equipment versions are often extraordinarily costly for old lathes. A couple hundred quid likely would not buy an original, for my Raglan lathe.
Unknown at the moment.What is the taper angle and length? You are fairly limited when using tailstock offsetting. If it's a short steep taper then using the compound would be best.
Unknown at the moment.
I was thinking about what I may need to do with the lathe so that if there was a particular piece of unobtanium I could keep my eye out.
That's not restricted to lathes, it's true across the board. The downside being the ever increasing cost of storage/workshop space.Simple rule of thumb with lathes. If you drop across a piece of kit you may need at some point, at a decent price, grab it. You'll kick yourself if not, that occasion you need it.