- uk colchester
Back when I was going to college, I worked part time at a crating service. This reminds me of when we built a wooden box sixty-four feet long with saddles & yokes, which sat on swivels mounted on two flatbed trailers to protect an airplane wing for transport. It was fun working at that place.
PM me if a round of black Delrin 1" thich by 8 inch dia is any good for the roller or give me a dimension & I'll check the Delrin bins to see if I've got a more suitable bit. .Something that looks a bit like a tipping die for a bead roller.
It's a first go at making one so not sure if my dimensions are suitable as I've just copied it from images off the internet. None of the sellers are daft enought to provide dimensions as they are pretty simple to make. I need a skateboard wheel or some firm plastic to make the part it rolls against. 22mm ID to fit my rollers. The tippy bit is 3mm wide with a bit of a radius done with a file on the lathe. Grub screw is M8 so it matches all my other rollers. It might need a little spacer on the back as the material I used was a bit short. It's not hardened but it only needs to upset 1mm steel or ally sheet so I think it should hold up.
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This is what the Chinese will sell to you for about 40 quid.
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This is what it does on the bead roller.
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You'll soon be able to offer bespoke gaskets online for old machinery if you're able to make such a decent job like that.A couple of exhaust gaskets for my generator. I couldn't find exact matches online so bought an A4 sheet of gasket material (which was less than buying two individual gaskets) and cut the gaskets out on my CNC router. It vibrated a bit but didn't make a bad job. For those that 'do want to try this at home', I used a 1/8" single flute carbide cutter running at 8000rpm with a feed rate of 80mm/minute. The material was 0.2mm steel sandwiching a non-asbestos core - it was about 2.5mm thick and I cut it out in one pass.
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Hand crafted the G Code - LinuxCNC controller & I had to get my maths head for the trig bits and yes, I called the function lozenge because I may want to have different shaped gaskets in the future...
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It was definitely a 5 minute job that took about two days The server I was using for running LinuxCNC went pop when I turned it on so I had to rebuild the whole thing on another box then tune the machine in. I had the old settings to work from but it was so long since I had built it I also spent a lot of time re-learning what I had done and what I had tweaked. It now works better than it did before but it was a lot of trial and effort for not a lot of improvement.
Your hopper has been an interesting manu process, good to see hopper now in place. Skeg repair reminded me of my first outboard purchase, which was a Mariner 40HP job. This was pre 1991 (as i left the company where I did repair in 91) I can't recall where engine was advertised, ad did state engine anti-cavitation plate was missing a fair chunk. Anyhooooooooooo, homed in on this, viewed the engine, "oh, that is a costly repair" engine price reduced and deal done, took engine to work and repaired, as we do. Paint job around repair area, engine worked a treat, sold a few year later, for more than I paid for!!Got the hopper down the road and craned onto the pier, hopefully the weather will be better on Monday so that I can get it fitted to the boat, today it is a screaming gale and plenty sleet.
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Got the top cut out of the console and the drop down welded in.
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Controls sitting in, skipper will fit the cables and covers
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Moved a roller out from the bulkhead and welded extension sides on.
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Built up a missing chunk from an outboards skeg, forgot to take a before pic.
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Clearing out the Manchester air and space hall, sad to see that go was a great place to visit.Back when I was going to college, I worked part time at a crating service. This reminds me of when we built a wooden box sixty-four feet long with saddles & yokes, which sat on swivels mounted on two flatbed trailers to protect an airplane wing for transport. It was fun working at that place.