Run your cables, using the same tie-wrap holes, under the base rather than on-top, then into the underside of the switch. When something snags and goes for a spin . . .Disc sander is 99% finished. This pic shows it running. I spent ages today making a brass adaptor to join the UNF thread on the motor body to the metric thread on a brass cable gland. The adaptor broke just as I was tidying it up on the lathe. To remedy this, I turned down the metric threads on a plastic cable gland and threaded the remaining stub onto the motor. The internal threads on the motor case cut into and threaded the stub of the plastic gland to give a very secure fit. The cable gland can still be screwed on and off if needs be.
First bit of material to sand.
Few things noticed after running.
It needs another grub screw to retain the sanding disc apparatus to the motor shaft. Just to be on the safe side.
The table needs moving over to the right-hand side of the disc to make the most of the faster surface speed at the edge of the disc. I only need to drill two further holes in the base to shift the table, which is bolted down. That is no trouble to do.
It weighs a flippin' ton. The motor is huge, and the base is 3/16" thick steel. I've added further steel bits during the build for good measure. At least it won't move when I lean into it with some tube or box section.
Especially when I see a lathe or some other substantial piece of equipment being sold with a photo showing it covered in rust. Have they not got the whit to at least give it a spray or wipe with an oily rag.I don't mind clutter, but what does amaze me is how a lot of folk treat their tools. Especially when they rely on them for their job. I can't even guess how badly you have to treat something to get it to the state some can manage with ease.