Thats nice, looks like its had a bit of use?
- Thread starter qwakers
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The Artilleryman
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As it's still on strakes - rear wheels, metal bars - it's been exhibited as a miniature version of a working condition full size.
Changes are afoot for this year.
Changes are afoot for this year.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I made a start on my 'false' roof to cover the original to try and keep the moisture from dripping on the workshop equipment 
It is framed with 47mm x 95mm and the sides are 19mm x 95mm all pressure treated. The insulation is polystyrene type stuff and the roof is corrugated bitumen.
I expect those professionals on here will tell me all the things I have done wrong but hey
I can take it 
It is framed with 47mm x 95mm and the sides are 19mm x 95mm all pressure treated. The insulation is polystyrene type stuff and the roof is corrugated bitumen.
I expect those professionals on here will tell me all the things I have done wrong but hey
I can take it 
MattF
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I made a start on my 'false' roof to cover the original to try and keep the moisture from dripping on the workshop equipment
I know your pain.
I fixed the non-starting issue that was plaguing the laid-up 1995 Nissan Terrano II. Starter was sticky, but I found the issue was he solenoid not engaging. Voltage was getting to the solenoid but it was down a bit.
Stuck some jump leads on off another vehicle, then ran a wire direct from the starter solenoid tab so I could apply 14v straight off the battery +ive.
That did the trick.
Then found the brake warning light was on (fluid or vacuum pressure). Fluid OK, the vacuum pump off the alternator was fine, so I pulled the vacuum pipe off the servo, confirmed good vacuum, then stuffed it back on with the motor running... and off went the light! I reckon the sudden suction unstuck the switch and restored function.
Silly things from the truck standing I suppose, but a little time and a bit of luck and all was well.
Hopefully there's no serious issues elsewhere, and I can get this 4x4 mot's again after 3-years parked up.
After that, I played with settings and wire (0.8 solid, 0.8 gasless, and 0.6 solid) with my new Oxford MigMaker 180-1 and got some test welds & performance I was pretty happy with.
All small things, but overall a positive few hours
Stuck some jump leads on off another vehicle, then ran a wire direct from the starter solenoid tab so I could apply 14v straight off the battery +ive.
That did the trick.
Then found the brake warning light was on (fluid or vacuum pressure). Fluid OK, the vacuum pump off the alternator was fine, so I pulled the vacuum pipe off the servo, confirmed good vacuum, then stuffed it back on with the motor running... and off went the light! I reckon the sudden suction unstuck the switch and restored function.
Silly things from the truck standing I suppose, but a little time and a bit of luck and all was well.
Hopefully there's no serious issues elsewhere, and I can get this 4x4 mot's again after 3-years parked up.
After that, I played with settings and wire (0.8 solid, 0.8 gasless, and 0.6 solid) with my new Oxford MigMaker 180-1 and got some test welds & performance I was pretty happy with.
All small things, but overall a positive few hours
brewdexta
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Leaking shower - part n of an indefinite series.
The eldest daughters shower was leaking. It's above her bath and the water was coming through into the kitchen below.
I did the obvious first, make sure she had the shower curtain in the bath and covered the full length of the bath, descaled the shower head so water was spraying downwards. Still the same.
Next, the seal around the bath, it looked iffy in a couple of places, but I had sealed the bath to the wall before tiling so this was belt and braces, but it looked cosmetically a bit rough so replaced it, still leaked.
Next, the thermostatic valve. However I wasn't convinced this was the culprit, I was thinking that the likely problem was the hardest, the joint from the thermostatic valve to the shower head. This is buried in the wall behind a fitted bookcase in her bedroom and would mean emptying books, unscrewing the bookcase and cutting a hole in the stud wall. In the other bedrooms the showers back on to a closet or airing cupboard so I have service panels, I didn't have the option in this room. But its been leak free for 20 years, why now?
So, its an Aqaulisa thermostatic shower valve, I bought 3 at the same time 20 years ago, a mate from work's brother had staff discount. All have worked flawlessly without maintenance for 20 years. A new cartridge is about 150 quid but an o-ring kit is a tenner, so that's what I got first. Theoretically, this should only fix the shower head from dripping when the shower is turned off, but given its 20 years old, probably needs doing any way. The only way this could stop the problem of the leak into the kitchen is if it leaked through the front of the unit and dribbled back and down into the partition, but there is no sign of that. Anyway, less theorising, more action.
This is the cartridge after coaxing it from its 20 year home
a bit or rusty slurry on the bi-metallic doo dah, so gave it a good wipe down.
This is the the O-ring kit from the bay of evil. Ten quid for 50 p worth of P-rings but they tell you where they need to go and they are the right thickness so fine by me. All labelled up so you need to be seriously thick to screw it up.
Getting the cartridge apart was easy, the plastic nut is a weak spot so gently does it to take it off, and it doesn't need much more than hand tight afterwards
This is where most of the O-ring action is, 4 in total. I started at the bottom in this photo, one at a time so I can roll the O-rings over the old ones to the new. If you take out all the O-rings first then you have to stretch the new O-rings over empty channels.
this is the screw that turns the flow on and off. I gave this a good clean and new silicon grease.
This is the hardest bit, replacing the lone O-ring at the back of the housing, you can just see it peeking out.
YouTube recommends a crochet hook with a spike to get it out, I don't have one of those, after a bit of trial and error, the ideal weapon are pointy tweezers. You can't get behind it, so stab it and pull it out.
Putting the O-ring back is a bit fiddly bit not as hard as removal.
So, turn it on and look under the bath, no leaks, go into the kitchen, no leaks. Turn the temperature up, no leaks. Get the daughter to take a shower no leaks.
I'm cautiously optimistic that it is fixed, I'm not convince why it fixed it, but it seems to have worked, for now..........
Then I walked over the moors for an hour with the dog to the pub to meet friends over a hot beef sandwich, chips and beer
The eldest daughters shower was leaking. It's above her bath and the water was coming through into the kitchen below.
I did the obvious first, make sure she had the shower curtain in the bath and covered the full length of the bath, descaled the shower head so water was spraying downwards. Still the same.
Next, the seal around the bath, it looked iffy in a couple of places, but I had sealed the bath to the wall before tiling so this was belt and braces, but it looked cosmetically a bit rough so replaced it, still leaked.
Next, the thermostatic valve. However I wasn't convinced this was the culprit, I was thinking that the likely problem was the hardest, the joint from the thermostatic valve to the shower head. This is buried in the wall behind a fitted bookcase in her bedroom and would mean emptying books, unscrewing the bookcase and cutting a hole in the stud wall. In the other bedrooms the showers back on to a closet or airing cupboard so I have service panels, I didn't have the option in this room. But its been leak free for 20 years, why now?
So, its an Aqaulisa thermostatic shower valve, I bought 3 at the same time 20 years ago, a mate from work's brother had staff discount. All have worked flawlessly without maintenance for 20 years. A new cartridge is about 150 quid but an o-ring kit is a tenner, so that's what I got first. Theoretically, this should only fix the shower head from dripping when the shower is turned off, but given its 20 years old, probably needs doing any way. The only way this could stop the problem of the leak into the kitchen is if it leaked through the front of the unit and dribbled back and down into the partition, but there is no sign of that. Anyway, less theorising, more action.
This is the cartridge after coaxing it from its 20 year home
a bit or rusty slurry on the bi-metallic doo dah, so gave it a good wipe down.
This is the the O-ring kit from the bay of evil. Ten quid for 50 p worth of P-rings but they tell you where they need to go and they are the right thickness so fine by me. All labelled up so you need to be seriously thick to screw it up.
Getting the cartridge apart was easy, the plastic nut is a weak spot so gently does it to take it off, and it doesn't need much more than hand tight afterwards
This is where most of the O-ring action is, 4 in total. I started at the bottom in this photo, one at a time so I can roll the O-rings over the old ones to the new. If you take out all the O-rings first then you have to stretch the new O-rings over empty channels.
this is the screw that turns the flow on and off. I gave this a good clean and new silicon grease.
This is the hardest bit, replacing the lone O-ring at the back of the housing, you can just see it peeking out.
YouTube recommends a crochet hook with a spike to get it out, I don't have one of those, after a bit of trial and error, the ideal weapon are pointy tweezers. You can't get behind it, so stab it and pull it out.
Putting the O-ring back is a bit fiddly bit not as hard as removal.
So, turn it on and look under the bath, no leaks, go into the kitchen, no leaks. Turn the temperature up, no leaks. Get the daughter to take a shower no leaks.
I'm cautiously optimistic that it is fixed, I'm not convince why it fixed it, but it seems to have worked, for now..........
Then I walked over the moors for an hour with the dog to the pub to meet friends over a hot beef sandwich, chips and beer
Last edited:
dobbslc
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Nice work! At least you didnt rip a newly installed wall hung toilet off the wall, dismantle the paneling and then smash a hole in the newly painted wall to check the Speedfit elbow to fix a leak that turned out to be a new (but crap) radiator valve 
CHS won’t bend tidy more than a few degrees,you want seamless and decent mandrels.I ordered 20 metres of 42 mm steel tube ‘circular hollow section’ from Brundles Monday night, it arrived 10a, this morning.
Now I need design a frame, and to see if my Chinesium bender will actually put nice bends in it.
I could do some sort of Ducati like space frame, all straight sections, but I prefer the olde worlde bent tube look.
Morrisman
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Seamless, DOM etc, costs five times the price of CHS, and I don’t have room for a mandrel bender in either my workshop or my bank account. So, a slightly bent frame its going to be.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
perkele
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Bit of fun.
A lot of history and a host of memories.
This Dental flask clamp came my way the other day.
It has had a hard life as a press. But a unloved life as a Garden gate stop.
This showes 2 of the 3 issues.
Rust in pits and a pour paint job.
Plus a broken securing screw.
Left handed drills did nothing but make a hole.
Imperial grub screws need ordering in. Metric ones should be easy to find. But not yestreday when I wanted some. So I made some from Allan bolts.
This should of come off, but even with heat, oil and time it would not shift. It was getting to the point of damagining the soft cap nut.
So I left it and worked around it.
Vinegar and citric acid powder mixed into a paste. This highlighted a hidden issue. In the past some one had applied a wax like substance.
So "meths", wire wool and wax removal cream was needed to remove it..
A wire brush did not work, it spread it thiner.
Here you can see the frame with black oxide forming. The head I tried some Off the shelf rust killer. Oh it worked, just not as good as I thought it should of done.
The frame was warmed and rattle can paint applied.
Finished.
A lot of history and a host of memories.
This Dental flask clamp came my way the other day.
It has had a hard life as a press. But a unloved life as a Garden gate stop.
This showes 2 of the 3 issues.
Rust in pits and a pour paint job.
Plus a broken securing screw.
Left handed drills did nothing but make a hole.
Imperial grub screws need ordering in. Metric ones should be easy to find. But not yestreday when I wanted some. So I made some from Allan bolts.
This should of come off, but even with heat, oil and time it would not shift. It was getting to the point of damagining the soft cap nut.
So I left it and worked around it.
Vinegar and citric acid powder mixed into a paste. This highlighted a hidden issue. In the past some one had applied a wax like substance.
So "meths", wire wool and wax removal cream was needed to remove it..
A wire brush did not work, it spread it thiner.
Here you can see the frame with black oxide forming. The head I tried some Off the shelf rust killer. Oh it worked, just not as good as I thought it should of done.
The frame was warmed and rattle can paint applied.
Finished.
Machinery restorations
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Yesterday and this morning I had the pleasure of fixing the catalyst on the Mrs car. A completely rotten exhaust flange. A crap job removing it. Made a new flange with a new gasket. Job done.
Dcal
Member
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I fixed @WvW Omnimil Depth Stop Collar that had snapped.
I think the reason it snapped was because there are a couple of threads in the free, (what should be) unthreaded end of the clamp. As a result the clamp bolt had to be overtighten for it to clamp at all, and something had to give.
To fix it, I bolted the pieces back together with a couple of washers keeping everything tight while maintaining the clamp gap. I also kept the troublesome thread as it helped to keep alignment and spacing.
I veed out the crack with a wee grinder then rounded it with a burr.
Then pre heated the whole clamp well, before brazing.
After brazing I covered it, let it cool completely, before grooving out the other side.
Then preheated again and brazing from the other side.
I covered and let it cool again before fairing the most of the brass off in the lathe. I didn't go too far to keep as much material as possible.
Then set up and drilled out the extra thread on the bench drill.
A bit more of a sand and it should be good to go. (I do hope it holds)
Omnimil Depth Stop Collar - Snapped!
In the process of restoring my Omnimil, and like a stupid idiot, and for no reason, I have overtightened the depth stop collar and snapped it. I thought things were going well. I was just wondering what people's opinions are of how best to repair? I'm not going to find another that's for sure...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
I think the reason it snapped was because there are a couple of threads in the free, (what should be) unthreaded end of the clamp. As a result the clamp bolt had to be overtighten for it to clamp at all, and something had to give.
To fix it, I bolted the pieces back together with a couple of washers keeping everything tight while maintaining the clamp gap. I also kept the troublesome thread as it helped to keep alignment and spacing.
I veed out the crack with a wee grinder then rounded it with a burr.
Then pre heated the whole clamp well, before brazing.
After brazing I covered it, let it cool completely, before grooving out the other side.
Then preheated again and brazing from the other side.
I covered and let it cool again before fairing the most of the brass off in the lathe. I didn't go too far to keep as much material as possible.
Then set up and drilled out the extra thread on the bench drill.
A bit more of a sand and it should be good to go. (I do hope it holds)
Fantastic work. Very much appreciated!
daleyd
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Fantastic work
Other Daniel
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Dieselman 63
Banned from forklifts
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Barking Mat
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Following on from my comment, I hate plumbing, I've spent today plumbing.
Installed a pump to take the kitchen sink on a boat to the grey water tank.
It was a PITA, spent some hours lying under a sink today, before it just went overboard. Electrical side tomorrow.
Installed a pump to take the kitchen sink on a boat to the grey water tank.
It was a PITA, spent some hours lying under a sink today, before it just went overboard. Electrical side tomorrow.
