Stand in with a pedal

  1. Pipe Dreamer

    Pipe Dreamer Member

    Messages:
    124
    Location:
    Herts, UK
    Any genius tips on using a pedal while standing?
     
  2. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    7,611
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    people do while using a shrinker stretcher machine

    id prefer something like a lean on pedal at least both feet can remain on the floor

    depends on what job you want the pedal for
     
    Pipe Dreamer likes this.
  3. WorkshopChris Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,118
    Location:
    South East Essex
    Had an old RTech pedal that was about 120mm high very uncomfortable, but standing with the other foot on a 50mm raised platform made life more comfortable, is this while welding on the bench or in position?
     
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  4. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    17,814
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    Put it away and Learn to use a switch :thumbup:

    Pedals are useful tools on highly conductive materials when sat at a bench.
    However there are generally (from my experience) a lot more case scenarios where they are not so useful and in these cases you need to put it away and weld with fixed current. There is no reason to use one at all on steel or stainless in dc. If anything it’s a hindrance on such materials. There are a lot of skills you miss out on by welding only with pedals. Understanding a current/gage/joint relationship is the major one of them. There are a lot of guys that cannot weld with out a pedal and think they are the nuts. Well I say poppycock. A decent tig welder will switch between the two depending on situation and get on with it.
     
    Wallace, Hopefuldave, wyn and 7 others like this.
  5. Pipe Dreamer

    Pipe Dreamer Member

    Messages:
    124
    Location:
    Herts, UK
    Considering you know roughly how I've got to where I am, don't take the ****! ;) (And yes, I'm still hoping to do a 1-2-1 with you at some point.)

    Fair point.
    For what I'm currently I'm finding it a useful tool:
    It means I can get used to holding the torch in different ways without having to think about whether I can prss the damned button, and I can then concentrate on speed, angle, etc filler.
    And I can back off the power as I get towards a corner so I don't blow holes in the piece. I know speeding up and/or adding more filler is probably a better way to do that, and I'll get to that, but ... One skill at a time.;-)

    Anyway :offtopic: @WorkshopChris That gives me an idea. :laughing:
     
  6. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    17,814
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    I wasn’t taking the micky I was being serious. Using the switch is the answer to your trouble. Put it in 4T if you want to hold the torch at various places.
     
  7. Pipe Dreamer

    Pipe Dreamer Member

    Messages:
    124
    Location:
    Herts, UK
    Yeah, I knew you were being serious. It was just that the first time I saw your post I just saw ...
    :scared:
    4T's a good idea though. Had RTFM'd and saw what the function did, but I hadn't thought through the uses. :ashamed:
     
  8. Hood

    Hood Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    8,049
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    I agree with @Richard. for what it is worth as I am certainly no tig expert.
    I never use a pedal nowadays, did once or twice in the past but as 100% of my Tig welding is standing at the vice or hanging off of a ladder or over the side of a boat and a pedal is not much use. I use 4T mainly on the current welder although on occasions I will use 2T.
     
  9. ukracer Member

    Could you expand a bit more on 2T and 4T please richard and what you mean by put it in 4 T to use it in different positions?
     
  10. Pipe Dreamer

    Pipe Dreamer Member

    Messages:
    124
    Location:
    Herts, UK
    2T is press switch to initiate arc / release switch to stop arc.
    4T is press to initiate / release switch and cursent stays on / press again to stop arc.
    (I dont know, but I guess not all Tig units have this feature.)
     
    stuvy likes this.
  11. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    17,814
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    I Hit the post button too early by accident
     
  12. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    17,814
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    2T is 2 step trigger
    Step one press.
    Pre gas followed by slope up followed by main current

    Step two release.
    Slope down followed by lights out followed by post gas.

    4T is 4 stages.
    Step one press
    Pre gas followed by start current

    Step 2 release
    Slope up into main current

    Step 3 press
    Slope down followed by end current

    Step 4 release
    Lights out post gas.

    Essentially you can run a weld without your finger holding the button in 4T
     
  13. ukracer Member

    cheers Richard...
     
  14. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    4,729
    UK London
    Stick a brick or block of wood in front of it. Stand on the brick with your heel.

    I struggle with Tig and as a confirmed amateur, I use the pedal exclusively. The machine flatters my ability and the pedal disguises my ineptitude. :thumbup:
     
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  15. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    17,814
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    The machine doesn’t perform any differently to any other machine. Those old kemppis are ok and reliable but they ain’t anything special. If your welding looks decent then it’s Down to you not because a 20 year old kemppi is helping you out.
     
    Screwdriver, eLuSiVeMiTe and mtt.tr like this.
  16. Wonderweaver New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Manchester
    Between you legs. Under you arm--like playing the bagpipes or under you chin---it's all fun!
     
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