Highway_Star
Member
- Messages
- 297
All this talk of Range Rovers and Transit rear cross members...
The Range Rover 'Classic' has effectively two rear cross members, one which is part of the chassis and supports the fuel tank and the tow bar, the other which part of the bodt, supporting the rear floor and the whole structure of the rear tailgate area as well as having the two rear most body mounts as part of it. All in all it's a safe bet to say that both are structural
Well not on mine , firstly the rear body cross member, or the remains thereof.
What you'd have found under the boot carpet.
What you'd have seen from under the car.
I don't have a photo of the body mounts, as there wasn't anything left to identify!
The rear chassis cross member had faired better, only the crazily designed petrol tank mount had rotted, so I chopped it all out and made up a 3mm repair section, mig'ed it in and job's a good un. Decided not to recreate the original fuel tank mount as it's a rot trap, looked at all kinds of clever ways of doing it, then there was this piece of 3mmx25mmx25mm angle that I tripped over... Cut to length, drill and tap holes for bolts, weld in to place. Job done.
After much lining up and belting around with a Land Rover Nº1 adjusting tool, the replacement rear body cross member looks like this.
I'm a bit p'ed off with the finish. I had to use 'Stonechip' cans, 'cos that's all the factors had, well it reacted with the red oxide undercoat and went kind of craze cracked, so I had to remove all the loose stuff that didn't cure properly and re do it with the Tetra Schutz stuff once the factors had it back in stock. Usually my work has a much smoother finish. I'll waxoyl on top of the black Schutz when I'm all done.
I wasn't entirely happy with the replacement cross member when it arrived, it wasn't seam welded along the whole of it's long edages and was open at both ends, so I sorted that out before fitting. Filled in the gaps in the seams and welded plates over the ends to keep the muck out.
At either end there's a 1/2" ish gap between the cross member and various bits of the boot floor, this is usually where the rot starts, so I pressed some expanding foam filler into service, a bit crude but once the excess is cut off and it's oversprayed with Schutz it looks neat and more importantly stops that gap filling up with mud.
The Range Rover 'Classic' has effectively two rear cross members, one which is part of the chassis and supports the fuel tank and the tow bar, the other which part of the bodt, supporting the rear floor and the whole structure of the rear tailgate area as well as having the two rear most body mounts as part of it. All in all it's a safe bet to say that both are structural
Well not on mine , firstly the rear body cross member, or the remains thereof.
What you'd have found under the boot carpet.
What you'd have seen from under the car.
I don't have a photo of the body mounts, as there wasn't anything left to identify!
The rear chassis cross member had faired better, only the crazily designed petrol tank mount had rotted, so I chopped it all out and made up a 3mm repair section, mig'ed it in and job's a good un. Decided not to recreate the original fuel tank mount as it's a rot trap, looked at all kinds of clever ways of doing it, then there was this piece of 3mmx25mmx25mm angle that I tripped over... Cut to length, drill and tap holes for bolts, weld in to place. Job done.
After much lining up and belting around with a Land Rover Nº1 adjusting tool, the replacement rear body cross member looks like this.
I'm a bit p'ed off with the finish. I had to use 'Stonechip' cans, 'cos that's all the factors had, well it reacted with the red oxide undercoat and went kind of craze cracked, so I had to remove all the loose stuff that didn't cure properly and re do it with the Tetra Schutz stuff once the factors had it back in stock. Usually my work has a much smoother finish. I'll waxoyl on top of the black Schutz when I'm all done.
I wasn't entirely happy with the replacement cross member when it arrived, it wasn't seam welded along the whole of it's long edages and was open at both ends, so I sorted that out before fitting. Filled in the gaps in the seams and welded plates over the ends to keep the muck out.
At either end there's a 1/2" ish gap between the cross member and various bits of the boot floor, this is usually where the rot starts, so I pressed some expanding foam filler into service, a bit crude but once the excess is cut off and it's oversprayed with Schutz it looks neat and more importantly stops that gap filling up with mud.