Pulse n pedal penny dropped

  1. norlander

    norlander Member

    Messages:
    3,390
    Location:
    Europe, mocycling paradise
    Never used pulse much, couldn't get on with it. Thought it through, what I do now is:

    bung the base amps up to more than whats needed for the material-maybe 50% or even more depending on what you are doing.
    set the % current to about 35%- 40% (tweak as required), I found my mistake was setting the base amps to the material, pulse now works for me and I use it quite a lot.

    Pedal, ditto, most of my ali stuff is 1.5-3mm, what I do now is set the amps at 100, freq you have to tweak as required, but on my set 90 is a fair guesstimate, balance I leave at 33 for most of the the time.

    I pretty much floor the pedal to start, then back off, sometimes right back- in effect- pulsing with the pedal I suppose, anyway, its working (most of the time LOL) for me, so posted if it will help anyone out.
     
    Richard. and Haggis like this.
  2. Richard.

    Richard. Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    18,350
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    Yes mate you appear to have got the right idea about pulse.
    You work out your average amperage over the two settings and this is your current level for the job. I.e. 2mm stainless say 50 amps needed.
    75 on the top 25 on the bottom 50% duty will give you an average of 50amps. Of course if your spending 80% of the time in the top or bottom then you adjust the figures to get you that average needed. If your using a very slow pulse you might find your spending too long at the high current and need to adjust again.
    The idea behind it is to hit the peaks and troffs quickly this stabilises the arc, gets a pool going quickly increases your local heat going in without the risk of burning through as the background takes care of that. but in turn forces your hand to move quicker. By doing so heat input is reduced and all the nastys that come with it like distortion are also reduced. I can't get on with slow pulses and pulse pedal thingymajigga just doesn't work for me personally but that's just what makes us individual. Pics of the results mate would be nice.
     
  3. norlander

    norlander Member

    Messages:
    3,390
    Location:
    Europe, mocycling paradise
    For the main part, my welds still look rubbish/farmers welding, however, what I was aiming to fix was:

    mild steel to SS pipe without burning out the SS
    SS to SS and getting the "colours"
    TIG brazing without melting in the base metal
    root fusion on ali.

    For the most part, I have almost achieved the aim in all the above objectives, the one benefit of using pulse (for me personally) has that I have been able to tighten up the arc due to the "breathing space" of using pulse.

    I cannot maintain a tight arc every time, but, thats my next aim, I 've found the results from keeping a tight arc make a significant difference- with 67 year owd eyes and shaky hands I aint gonna be turning out Jody Collier weld porn, but I have more confidence that my welds are sound now.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  4. Richard.

    Richard. Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    18,350
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    It doesn't matter norlander. No body is gonna give you anything but praise and constructive criticism on how to improve going forward. Never be concerned about showing your work. I certainly wouldn't knock anybody for putting up a photo no matter how bad it looked, I'd only try to help and give credit where it's due. Get some pics up let's see what you've achieved with your findings as it sounds like your doing well mate.
     
    cianh91 likes this.
  5. cianh91

    cianh91 Member

    Messages:
    615
    Location:
    kildare ireland
    pictures will definitely help with lads giving advice as said above most will give helpful advice and support
     
Advertisements