Pry bar repair

  1. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    Hi
    Few months ago I found a good pry bar in the trash (a building site where I worked)
    Someone trow it in the trash because is broken .
    The missing part is the ciesel head ,than the foot is dull
    So the foot I did weld with 7018 rebuilding the missing part ,I have to sharpen it but not need to be hardened because the center punch can't really damage it so I think is good enough for my needs .
    I need to extend it and to have a round ciesel head to use it to align plates holes etc .
    I was thinking to use a chiesel but I don't have really no idea of how to weld them together because is a chrome vanadium ciesel .
    The pry bar may be also chrome vanadium but I don't really know
    Sparks tell me that is high carbon hardened steel

    the colour (sparks) is similar to stainless steel but with the forms of high carbon hardened steel so I wonder can be chrome vanadium also

    Can I use 7018 ?
    Other welds semes good
    I will use to chamfer the pieces at about 30 degrees because is 25mm thick
    After weld I will beat with the sledgehammer to reduce the stress built-in the weld
    Down here a picture of the pry bar
    I have not the ciesel yet because I would like to know if I can weld I or not
    Now the pry bar is 1,10 meters long
    The ciesel I would like to weld to is 35cm long so this thing will be 1,45 meter long
    I would like to be able to grind and shoot a photo to the sparks as you can tell me what kind of material is but I really can't do that , it's to dangerous
    Hope you guys can help me
    Thank you
     
    • 15580013611956500454109309907174.jpg
  2. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    7,250
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    thats a floor board lifter
     
    Memmeddu likes this.
  3. frank horton

    frank horton V twins are great but 4"s rule.........

    Messages:
    1,162
    Location:
    manchester, UK
    memmeddu
    or called a podger where I'm from........
    I'd just heat the end up and make a new chisel end.....
     
    Anguz, 123hotchef, Memmeddu and 2 others like this.
  4. nickk Member

    Messages:
    1,679
    Location:
    Hay-on-wye
    B2718C29-555D-4157-9904-A0D72F5AB593.jpeg 93F8B64C-88E3-46D2-8E2C-F4EF16B80EDB.jpeg Don’t know what steel it was,but I’ve successfully welded old muck fork tines for use as digging bar,just pre heated,not quite dull red ,then used nickel chrome rods,it’s welded to a buck rake tine,so both tough & bend resistant as I’m sure yours is.
     
  5. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    I have not a forge , unfortunately :(
     
  6. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    So isn't a pry bar but I use it for this purposes thank you for the new therm in my dictionary , thanks for this forum my English is way more better
     
  7. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    I have not nickel Chrome rods available as easy here ,I have 5 316L rods in the storage .
    We are sure that 7018 isn't good for this application?
     
  8. nickk Member

    Messages:
    1,679
    Location:
    Hay-on-wye
    You have to adapt to your conditions and available consumables,or don’t try it.
     
    Memmeddu likes this.
  9. Maker

    Maker King in the North

    Messages:
    6,239
    Location:
    Lemon
    Surely if it was a good pry bar it wouldn't have broken in the first place? :whistle:
     
  10. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    They used as ciesel digging in the concrete
    Then they thought that was little bit to long and they made meet him with an angle grinder
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  11. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    So my retailers can't sell me 309 rods ,and I don't need to have 5 kg of rods so ebay isn't an option because will end wasting them,here where I live the weather is always something around 80 90% humidity
    Is 7018 a good rod for this application ?
    Can 308 rod be an option ?
    Can 316 rod be an option?
    I can get these stainless steel rod very quickly and in little quantity
     
  12. nickk Member

    Messages:
    1,679
    Location:
    Hay-on-wye
    Use stainless rods,that’s what I’ve used in the past with success.
     
  13. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    Is better using 308 or 316
    Other questions they are not low hydrogen rods ,can be an issue?
     
  14. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    Also 312 is available so I have another option
    Which is better 308 312 or 316?
     
  15. nickk Member

    Messages:
    1,679
    Location:
    Hay-on-wye
    I’ve only got the proof of using 308.
     
    Memmeddu likes this.
  16. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    I will use 308 surelly
     
  17. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    17,348
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    Is it worth going out buying spendy consumables and throwing time at a rusty broken steel bar cos that’s all it is and they cost bugga all to replace.
    If all you’ve got is 7018 then use that if you want to fix it. What’s the worst that can happen??? You break it again and think to yourself well I had a go let’s do what the last guy did and sling it in the skip
    A pack of stainless consumables will cost waaaaaaaaaaaay more than the tool will ever be worth and 312 as good as they are will be eye watering.
     
    Kent, Memmeddu and eLuSiVeMiTe like this.
  18. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    I know that 7018 is a multipurpose rod
    A friend of mine is a pipeliner ,time ago he said me that they got to weld a pipe , they used 7018 ,after years they knew that they weld together 304 stainless steel to steel ,the pipe still there no issues
    7018 is low hydrogen , and it has also good mechanical properties
    I saw a guy using 7018 to weld cast iron ,and someone used it to weld Cr Mo sockets to a lever
    so that is why I was thinking to use it
    But some folks tell me that 309 is better but I don't know
    I can always do the first pass using 316 and do fill and cap using 7018 is 22mm to 16mm section and I believe it requires 12 or more rods because the bevel will be 50mm wide I think
    Or I can cover all the parent metal in the Bevel using stainless steel rod than use 7018
    What is the best option?
     
  19. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    3,774
    Location:
    bristol england
    as @Richard. has said your over thinking it. a long pry bars not looked but i got one a few years ago cost was £20 ish quid was 1 inch think ish used it quite a few times apart from a little bend its still fine

    if you spend half of that buying and posting driving etc you will still have a broken but welded pole that still will not be as strong as it was new. more use if back together yes but worth spending money on it prob not
     
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  20. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    567
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    I know that may be is not the cheapest way to go , but this thing is old school and I would like to save it
     
    Gwil likes this.
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