My first welding project

  1. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Hi, my first real car bodywork project is on my 1967 Chevrolet C10 pickup. I've had her for about 4 years and I've known all along that the sills and kick panels were a bit crusty, well now it's time to do something about it. I've stripped my first side and found the inner sill is rotten, as is the bottom of the kick panel and the bottom of the door pillar. I have patch panels for the inner sills and new outers and have had to go back to my supplier in the US to order the pillar patches as I didn't anticipate them being rotten. Its bloody marvelous condition really when you think she's nearly 40 years old. I'm sure I'll have many questions as I go along. here's some pics:

    Firstly one of the outside:

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    as she looks now:

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    Kick panel rust right at the bottom:

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    sill/floor edge

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  2. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Heres a few more:

    Sill coming off:

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    Front end:

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    Door pillar:

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    New sill test fitted just to raise my spirits!

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  3. malcolm

    malcolm Hej!

    Messages:
    8,827
    Location:
    Bedford UK
    It doesn't look bad - the rust seems quite localised. Often, especially where mud is involved, it turns into rot and just spreads. That Aston I've almost finished dropped it's sills in piles of rust on the floor. I'm guessing the truck spent a lot of it's 40 years in the states.

    I'm impressed you can still get panels. Are they aftermarket panels through specialists over there?

    The engine looks tidy - does it go faster than originally intended?
     
  4. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Its been over here for at least 10 years but before that it was a california car. It has been restored/modified over the years, although these areas are original, the great things is compared to a modern car the steel is very thick (replacement panels are 1.2mm) Panels are aftermarket althoguh you can still get genuine GM rockers (sills) but they are very expensive and don't fit much better either. New parts are being added to the list all the time as they become more collectable. As to the engine, she let the factory with a 4 litreish straight six, she now has a 350ci (5.7l) small block V8, with a few tweaks, soon to get a few more (performance inlet manifold, electronic distributor, sone nice period alloy valve covers) so yes, she does go a bit faster than nature intended! She's sharing company in some rented garage space with a 68 Impala with a 7.1 litre big block and a 69 Camaro drag car with a methanol drinking 8L big block that runs 9 second quarter miles so she's the garage baby really! (Sadly the other two aren't mine!)

    Here's the engine as it is now, probably pushing something around 250 - 300 BHP and 350-400lb/ft of torque.

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  5. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Part of the reason for learning to weld is that I want to build a "rat" rod, I may even have found a base for it near my holiday home in France, a 1930's car, possibly a 1930/31 Ford with a 32 Chevy bonnet thats been cut down into a pickup, sat in a barn next to a sawmill. Would be great channeled, chopped with a V8 and painted matt black!

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  6. MrFluffy Member

    Messages:
    2,911
    Location:
    In the shed
    Cool, you know you'll have to reg it in the uk, the french authorities dont go for modified vehicles at all , its possible but so involved that it might as well be completely illegal it seems as you have to pay for each component to be type approved (very expensive) for your use or get the manufacturer of each component to supply certification that its ok to use it like that.. I have a sniff that they may accept a UK SVA certificate as proof of conformity, but the guy I know who's going that route hasnt finished yet, so its not confirmed..

    For the sills on your car, Im sure all the other vw bus and range rover owners are crying into their cereal at how little corrosion there actually is! Though it is always disheartening when something looks clean and pretty to cut back the rot and find big lumps need changing..
    This is almost a annual proceedure with a old rangey ;)

    I plan to rod this if I ever find enough hours in the day, its crying out for a midmounted v8 on yet another renault transaxle. The chassis on it is in fair shape apart from the rear section, that you'd have to replace anyway to make it rwd. Came out of a local garage, cost me 100e, which seeing as its the rare split screen one isnt too bad, engines missing and a few other bits but I dont exactly want them anyway. I have the grille etc (removed so the jockey wheel didnt damage it) safely stashed. Its a Citroen H van...
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    I had a Pop with a 7.5L plymouth in once (jag axle, boxed frame, chopped etc) but was sold before finished as back then couldnt afford the insurance, and a moggie van that we cut into a pickup and went the twincam route, so no stranger to a bit of nip and cut ;)
    Whereabouts in france are you? Im right in the middle (Indre).
     
  7. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    I live in Lancashire in the UK so the French house is just a holiday home at the moment, it's in the north of the Lot about 20 miles south of the Dordogne river. The idea would be to bring the thing back in stages as we're still renovating the house over there so are back and forth with a 6x4 1 ton Ifor williams trailer, so in bits it'd be quite easy to bring back a section at a time. The rest could live under the house in the cave so maybe bring the frame back, sort taht to the satge fo having a rolling powered chassis and then bring the cab back and sort that out.

    I love the old Citroen H vans, they remind me of childhood camping trips to France when the bakers used to come round the campsites in them at 7am tooting their horns. Mid engine V8 would be pretty cool, I saw a 1950's morrison milk float at my local cruise with a mid mounted rover V8, did great burnouts!

    I also know about 4x4 rust as my daily driver is a 91 MK 1 Isuzu Trooper and they rust at light speed! Just trying to find a secondhand fuel tank for the MoT as mine has been leaking and all the pipe stubs are knackered.

    Here's my house, we finally got stairs at easter after two years of going up a ladder to bed, this summer will be bathroom installation time amongst other stuff if we can ever get a date out of the guy thats supposed to be installing the septic tank. One day I might be able to go on holiday without a car full of tools and a set of ladders!

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    My second project has reared it's ugly head, my daily driver 91 Isuzu Trooper, had to drop the fuel tank as I've been having some running problems before it went in for an MoT, ended up needing a new (used) one due to rust. Went underneath to clean up the mountings before I put the tank back in and found to my horror a bloody great big hole in the chassis under the bump stop, passenger side laso has a smaller one too. So now I need to plate it up and rebuild the bump-stop mount before it can have an MoT. I also need to get some 3mm plate to do it with. It seems the previous owner just covered it up with a layer of underseal when they repaired the rest of the chassis as they obvioulsy couldn't be bothered to deal with the bump stops. Scary thing is I've been hauling well over a ton in a trailer off road with this earlier in the year. Here's some pics:

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    Passenger side:

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  9. malcolm

    malcolm Hej!

    Messages:
    8,827
    Location:
    Bedford UK
    Looks like a pain, although at least the tank is already out. 3mm? That seems too thick for the chassis.

    You should be able to buy 6 inch * 6 foot lengths of 3mm steel. Much cheaper and more manageable than a sheet.
     
  10. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Thats it, I seem to be getting conflicting suggestions as to the thickness of steel I should use, 3mm even for a 4x4 seemed to me to be overkill, I would have gone for maybe 2mm/2.5. The original chassis sure as hell wasn't 3mm thick. As this section has a slight curve to it 3mm is gonna be hard to get shaped.

    Did some grinding and cleaning up and this is what it looks like now:

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  11. malcolm

    malcolm Hej!

    Messages:
    8,827
    Location:
    Bedford UK
    I'd tend to go for the same thickness as the original. My argument is if I went thicker then the thicker metal wouldn't bend so well, so all the bending will happen either side of the new bit. Which is where my weld is!

    I'd have guessed 2mm for that. Although the old Land Rover chassis were around 3mm. I'd generally cut back to good metal, then use verniers to measure the thickness.
     
  12. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    I can measure a good bit on the back end but I figured 2mm too, the guy that suggested 3m is a land rover man so that may well be the reason. I'm going to douse the inside with Hyrdate 80 rust convertor and then plate over the top rather than butt welding the patch as tbh prettiness is not really ever going to happen and the vehicle has realistically got a couple of years left in it before it dissolves into a small pile of iron oxide. I'll get some anti rust wax in afterwards and a coat of finnegans No 1 and some smoothrite over the top followed by some underseal. What do you use to de-rust in confined spaces as I can't get a wire wheel on my angle grinder into the front end?
     
  13. malcolm

    malcolm Hej!

    Messages:
    8,827
    Location:
    Bedford UK
    Sounds like your rust treatment will outlast the rest of the car.

    I clean up metal with an angle grinding disc before welding. The wire brush alone doesn't seem to get things clean enough. For tight spaces I have an air grinder (like a powerful dremel), although I've had to resort to 80 grit sandpaper on occasions.
     
  14. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    I've been over it with a wire wheel, followed by a 60 grit flap wheel bit it is very pitted so hard to get it clean down in the pits. A compressor is on the cards for my birthday in September along with a die grinder etc (it's a big birthday so big pressies!) but I have no access to a compressor at the moment which is a shame as I do have a spot blast gun and some silicon carbide media which would get it clean in a heartbeat. I may have to resort to the dremel in the confined bit then.
     
  15. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    I spent yesterday afternoon in A&E after getting a facefull of crud on Sunday when the angle grinder and wire wheel slipped and jammed in the big hole. Some of it somehow managed to find its way past my safety glasses and I had to have some bits of my chassis picked off the surface of my left eyeball with a hypodermic needle. I now look like something out of Lord of the Rings and not in a good way with a swollen and bloodshot eye......Orc anyone.
     
  16. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Well things are moving again. Decided after measuring a clean bit of chassis to go with 3mm plate. Visited the Metal Supermarket at Trafford Park and I'm off and away. Got the first two plates on, the bottom and outside and the inside one is now cut out but needs some more fettling to get a good fit. By the end of the second plate I was getting some good neat welds too. However, welding under the car when it's 30 degrees is not a lot of fun.

    Underside, there is one small hole still at the back where it's been patched with thinner metal before and I blew through it, it'll get covered by the new bumpstop mount.

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    Outside, had to use a bigger plate than I thought as the bottom corner was so rotten it just blew into big holes when I welded the plate on the bottom. The welds on this bit were getting pretty neat.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Finished the drivers side today, got a new swan neck for the welder from the Welders Warehouse, was the last one they had as SIP now only sell whole torches as they've changed the design to a plastic valve so best I don't **Language** this one up! Got the bump stop bracket welded on, it's a bit spattery and tbh it was a bit too windy today so there was the odd slightly porous patch but I don't think the strength is too compromised.

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    Also got the underside of the passenger side plated up so just got a small patch left to do on the inside and then I have to fabricate another bump stop bracket for that side. Hoping to finish it tomorrow, the drivers side is now seam sealed and painted and will get a couple of coats of underseal tomorrow before I reassemble all the brake gubbins I had to take off to get at the area. Access to the passenger side is much easier especially since I removed the back end of the exhaust which was loose and blowing anyway and needs to meet Mr BFH for some attitude adjustment to stop it knocking against the chassis.
     
  18. malcolm

    malcolm Hej!

    Messages:
    8,827
    Location:
    Bedford UK
    I've just figured out who Mr BFH is. :D

    The chassis is looking good. You've put a lot of effort into that bumpstop mounting. When the rust takes that much of a hold it can get tricky figuring out what it should have looked like in the first place.

    Good to see someone putting effort into making some decent welds on a car. Next week's job for me is removing some 'MOT welding' patches. Should be easy enough as they appear to be just decorative.
     
  19. migmag

    migmag Member

    Messages:
    700
    North east
    If you get a twisted wire disc for your grinder it will clean the steel better than any grinding disc witouh removing any steel.


    Good work there man..
     
  20. Lippyp Member

    Messages:
    566
    Lancashire UK
    Got the second one finished today, the welds were much neater and there were only two patches needed. Both sides are now painted with rust convertor, two coats of spray smooth hammerite and a coat of waxoyl underseal. Just got to put the exhaust back on and get the fuel tank in and bled up and then its MoT time next week.
     
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