MTB Tool

  1. Sammy7

    Sammy7 Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    I thought I would share the tool I made for the mountain bike.
    Basically it a bar of aluminium machined to accept hex bits held in place with neodymium magnets.
    Then anodised at home. IMG_1540.JPG IMG_1541.JPG IMG_1542.JPG IMG_1543.JPG IMG_1544.JPG
    The central shaft is a bit of titanium, the hex holder is a modified part (added hinge pin and turned it down) It then locates in the hollow crankshaft. It's never fell out yet even over rough terrain.
     
  2. steviec_lj

    steviec_lj Rust Welding Professional

    Messages:
    2,425
    Location:
    Barnetby, N.Lincs
    I like that, neat “storage” idea too.

    How do you find the Dynasys kit?
     
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  3. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    8,415
    Location:
    Kent
    cool
     
  4. Sammy7

    Sammy7 Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    IMG_1207.JPG
    Steve, it's a 1x11 and to be honest I preferred the old 2x10 setup on my old bike. The massive dish rear cassette (46 tooth) is pointless unless you live in the Alps...….
    Done away with bag on seat now I've got crank storage in place.
     
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  5. Sammy7

    Sammy7 Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    My favourite accessory IMG_1224.JPG
     
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  6. Fazerruss

    Fazerruss Member

    Messages:
    2,393
    West Yorkshire
    Where do you keep the tool to gain access to your tools?! :scared:

    Clever idea, I like it. Hope will probably steal your idea now and start mass producing them. ;)
     
  7. Pete.

    Pete. Member

    Messages:
    8,559
    Location:
    Kent, UK
    Eughh - can't stand Carling that's why I call it Girling!

    Or is it a top-up for your hydraulic brakes? :D
     
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  8. kcchan Member

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    Bristol

    Held in by magnets. The hex head looks like it holds the centre to the cap.
     
  9. Munkul Member

    Messages:
    974
    Cumbria, UK
    Cool idea. Guessing you ride pack-less?

    Preferring 2x10 over 1x11? Madness :scared: best evolution in MTB'ing since dropper posts.
     
  10. Sammy7

    Sammy7 Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    The large diameter aluminium (gold disk has several small magnets on the OD which sticks to the hollow steel crank spindle.
    I did try a full size torus magnet but held to well and I could not get it out of spindle without tools...……..which was pretty stupid
     
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  11. steviec_lj

    steviec_lj Rust Welding Professional

    Messages:
    2,425
    Location:
    Barnetby, N.Lincs
    1x11 has its moments, but as @Sammy7 says, I preferred the 2x set up I had. I’m still faster than the bike at times.

    Cant say I’ve used the 42t rear sprocket yet, haven’t found a vertical face to ride up, spends most of its time mid cassette on Kitcheners at Sherwood.

    Nice frame by the way :thumbup: have a Norco Atomic myself, with a Scott MC2 in the workshop waiting to be built up for the eldest.
     
  12. Sammy7

    Sammy7 Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    I agree Steve, first change I made was the front chain ring to 34 from 32T which made quite a difference, but occasionally still spin out.
     
  13. graffian

    graffian Seer unto the end of his beard

    Messages:
    2,757
    Location:
    gatwick
    If that was mine it would have a 22T front on it.
     
  14. Munkul Member

    Messages:
    974
    Cumbria, UK
    I have a 32t front and 11-42t rear on my FS Cube, and a 34t front, 10-42 rear on my Ragley hardtail, not much difference between them uphill, really, although I prefer the FS. That 10t makes a good difference to top speed, the SRAM XD driver is a nice idea.

    I'm not man enough to spin out on the FS anyway :laughing:
     
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  15. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,884
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    I've got 34t on the front and 11-36 on the back running 1x10, don't really miss 2x10 as I never touched the front mech anyway but I am tempted to jump up to a 38t chainring, that would have about the same effect as going down to a 10t on the back while also making the lower end more useful, if I need 1:1 gearing to get up a hill I'll probably get off and walk anyway. :whistle:

    The tool looks really cool but what's wrong with your pocket. :laughing:
     
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  16. graffian

    graffian Seer unto the end of his beard

    Messages:
    2,757
    Location:
    gatwick
    At least no one has nicked his spokes;-)
     
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  17. Sammy7

    Sammy7 Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    The last accessory I made. Carbon fibre mud guard.
    Carved a lump of model board (high density foam) to produce a former.
    Draped the CF and epoxy over, put the whole lot in a vacuum bag, connected an old fridge compressor in reverse to act as a vacuum pump.
    Set it running locked off the pipe. Let it cure then melted the foam away IMG_1492.JPG IMG_1494.JPG IMG_1495.JPG w IMG_1492.JPG with acetone, cleaned up edges with a Dremel.
    It attaches directly to the fork yoke with two small stainless bolts.
    Better than them cr'54 plastic things held on with tie wraps.
     
  18. graffian

    graffian Seer unto the end of his beard

    Messages:
    2,757
    Location:
    gatwick
    That looks pretty neat. Twill isn't the easiest to get neat.
     
  19. Sammy7

    Sammy7 Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    Thanks I found trying to get into a mould difficult but over a former quite easy unless it a tight compound curve
     
  20. graffian

    graffian Seer unto the end of his beard

    Messages:
    2,757
    Location:
    gatwick

    I have a mudguard mold for GSXR fronts. It was the first mold I made. It all looks open and easy access but
    the sides are far from easy to get into.
    I haven't made anything for 25 years, I look at stuff people are making now and am always impressed;-)
     
    roofman likes this.
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