MightyMig 130XT Mk2 - Which neck?

  1. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    Hi all,

    I am new here. I'm Matt, from (near) Reading, Berkshire, UK. I am a Vehicle Dynamics Engineer (historic motorsport) with an engineering degree. I have MIG welded once or twice before, but I am hoping to start to restore a classic Mini I have owned since I was 16 at some point this year.

    My step dad has an ancient Sealey MightyMig 130XT Turbo MkII in the garage which i'm hoping I can utilise. My uncle welded up a crack in my Mini subframe years ago with it, and said the wire feed kept stopping whatever he did - very frustrating.

    Trying it cold, the feed seems to work fine, but I have found the tip is fit for the bin and the neck is falling apart, and there is no gas shroud, so i'm planning to buy a new neck, shrouds, and tips - then hopefully I can get practising :laughing: I think i'll treat it to a new wire liner too.

    Can anyone confirm the neck type so I can replace it please? Photo 23-10-2016, 23 51 06.jpg Photo 23-10-2016, 23 50 54.jpg Photo 23-10-2016, 23 50 20.jpg Photo 23-10-2016, 23 50 03.jpg

    I think the neck is an MB14 hobbyist type neck with screw on gas nozzle/shroud (but the old one has a nut on the torch end, which clamps down onto the torch internals, and i've not seen these nuts on the MB14 necks on eBay - I can put it on a new one though). The broken bit is the remains of an internal part of a gas shroud, I think, looking at pictures online?

    I thought it might be an MB15 and that the broken part might be a tip adapter and that the spring and shroud are missing, but I think it's possibly a broken screw on shroud, since the tip screws straight into the end of the neck.

    Thanks in advance. Really looking forward to being a part of your great community :)

    Matt
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2016
  2. Mee Banned

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    1,441
    Location:
    Here and There
    Pity you're not nearer to me as you could strip an old SIP set down I have, and get what you want for free.
     
  3. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    Hello Mee, whereabouts are you? I travel a lot! Thanks for your kind offer. Matt
     
  4. tinker jim Member

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    birminham
    You could fit a mb15 swan neck and fit net curtain to replace the cack plastic wire liner should give you better wire feed.
     
    • Screenshot_2016-10-24-17-36-59.png
  5. Mee Banned

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    East Midlands.
     
  6. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    I have found the bits I need on eBay pretty cheaply, I think! So long as the neck at the torch end is M8 x 1.25... I've asked the seller.

    Thanks for the offer Mee, but i'm not in the Midlands much, and the parts are cheap enough.

    Is there any advantage to fitting an MB15 tip, other than being less than £2 cheaper? Would it be a straight swap - does the big nut on the end come off to reveal a threaded tube to fit in the torch handle?

    welder.jpeg

    Thanks all! Can't wait to get learning :)
     
  7. tinker jim Member

    Messages:
    207
    Location:
    birminham
    Hi yes the big nut at the end of the mb15 Swan neck reveals a threaded end and is better over mb14 as shrouds and tips will be cheaper as are standard welding consumables.
     
  8. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,302
    uk Bristol
    One thing to be aware of is that the "new" MB15 neck will probable have a M12 fine (1.0mm pitch) thread. I have a very old MB15 torch BUT it does not have a standard thread at the handle end (think it was M8 fine) I ordered a new swan neck and then had to reduce the thread down to fit, luckly I have a die box and was able to gradually reduce the thread diameter and cut a new smaller thread. You may have same issue but your thread looks much coarser.
    The advantages to a MB15 torch is cheapness of spares, tips , spring and shrouds.
    And welcome Matt BTW :hug:
     
    • swaneck 1.jpg
  9. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    Thanks for the advice and welcome.

    I bought the MB14 (this morning) shown above as it is an M8 thread for sure... Mine is M8 with 1.25 pitch, and i'm not sure if this is 1.0 or 1.25 pitch, but they said I could return it FOC even if i've opened it, and it doesn't fit. I have 0.6mm wire so got 10 x 0.6mm tips, and opted for 5 x 0.8mm tips with the two shrouds, just in case I ever use 0.8mm wire. I ordered gloves too. It was all cheap enough :)

    Now I just need a welding mask and new mini gas bottle (that will do until my Mini restoration starts then I think i'll covert to pub CO2 as my partners parents own a pub :whistle:).

    I have an old hand held mask here, but I think as a complete beginner an auto dimming helmet would make it easier.
    Oh, I could do with some small scrap bits of sheet, bar, tube and rod too! :doh:
     
  10. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,302
    uk Bristol
    Make sure the CO2 is JUST CO2 cos they do a mix for some beers (larger ??) that has another gas in it (no good for welding!)
    For sheet (to practice?) old filing cabinets have about the right thickness of steel and if paint removed make good size material.
     
  11. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    Thanks for the advice. I have some very long 2mm flat bar in the garage which I have started to practice on, but I am having trouble!

    I'm finding (as my uncle said, before I replaced the tip and neck) that the wire feed stops when welding, so i'm lucky to get more than blobs. I don't think i've mastered the length of wire protruding from the tip, that I start with, or my wire speed, but, with lots of fiddling, I still can't find a sweet spot. I think this means that the welder is at fault, and not me, but i'm not sure.

    I don't know if it's because the wire is a little rusty, rollers the wrong size, tension wrong, or the liner is buggered, or if the wire reel is slipping, or if my technique is making the wire burn back a bit, expand, and stop the feed. I think gas is leaking from the valve in the handle too, which can't be helping my itty bitty splattery welds - that and i'm wasting gas.

    I cleaned the steel up with emery paper until it's shiny, both where i'm welding and where the clamp is.

    When it stops feeding, and I stop, and hold the trigger, it sounds like it is still feeding, but it's not backing up behind the rollers like I would expect if it was stuck in the liner or tip? Maybe the reel is slipping? I cleaned what looked like copper slip off of the part of the welder that is inserted into the reel slightly, and cleaned more off from the inside of the reel, as I thought this might be causing slippage, and shouldn't be there... if anything it seemed worse after though.

    I'm tempted to just buy one that I know to be working before I spend so much on this old thing. First I ought to try to set the tension, and clean the rollers though.
     
  12. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,302
    uk Bristol
    Think you need to go through the basics.
    First release the wire feed roller clamp and run the motor (by pulling trigger!) while feeding adjust the speed control and see that it gives an even control over the speed, also check that the roller is running consistently as in there is no stopping or jerking (you may need to put some marker pen lines on it to see clearly that it is running smoothly if not then there could be an issue with motor/gearbox. If ok then check that the roller is correct way round to match the wire size you have. If you look at the roller the two grooves should be quite noticeably different (0.6 & 0.8) While you have the roller off give it a good clean with some scotch brite inc the groove. With the feed stiill unclamped remove the welding tip and grip the end of the wire with pliers and pull some wire through. As the feed is unclamped the only resistance should be from the liner and the friction/clutch on the wire spool holder. There should be only a slight drag from the spool clutch (someone did do an experiment using a bag of sugar/sand? tied to the wire to see what it took to move his spool, then "serviced" the wire feed inc new liner and compared to see difference (less sand in bag) to move spool).
    If the wire you are using is rusty it will NOT feed well and will mess up your feed roller and liner. Get new wire if rusty! Check correct tip size for wire being used.
    Replace liner, a cheep replacement can be made from net curtain wire <£3.
    Check and make good connections on work ground clamp, both ends.
    Figure where gas is leaking from. Poor gas supply will cause pours looking welds (looks like a crunchy bar!)
    To find gas leak use some water with a bit of washing up liquid and small paint brush as per checking a bike inner-tube.
    To set wire tension it should be as light as possible such that the feed roller slips IF the wire hits something that wont weld. You could try it backed right off then while pulling trigger aim torch at a piece of wood and slowly increase wire pressure till it feeds out but is stopped by the wood (and slips) from there it should only req a slight increase if at all.
    Note there is a mods for the plastic type feed asy that involve a brace across the top and bottom parts (see the SIP section for the arrangement of what is just a small metal bracket you can make.
     
  13. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    Fantastic advice, thank you very very much.

    I have been offered a battered old Snap On welder.

    I'll get some new wire and work through your suggestions. If I can't get it sorted I'll hopefully make a good one from both! That is, of the Snap On doesn't work well. Maybe it will!

    I was looking at a 130A Cebora on eBay so this is good :laughing:
     
  14. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,302
    uk Bristol
    The "snap on " will probable be a badged up Cebora !
    One of the key things with a mig is the build of the feed asy. You will find most smaller/hobby migs have a small feed motor/gearbox If you compare the one in your Sealey to MOST others SIP, Clarke, Cebora, Powercraft (Aldi?) you will see they all have a very basic DC motor and gearbox (with plastic gears!). When shopping for a mig look at the size of the feed motor/gearbox which will give an ideal of build quality. It's not to say that a small motor means poor machine or that a big motor will guarantee good machine but goes a long way to it.
    Clarke use to fit a decent motor/gearbox (see pic) but..... time and cost......
     
    • motor.jpg
  15. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    Hi Mike,

    Thanks for that. The Snap On I picked up for free seems to suffer from the same problems but I think it's the one I'll soldier on with initially.

    I have ordered a new spool of wire as the wore in both machines is rusty, even once I've wound a load off.

    It currently has a copper tube taped around the neck for a gas shroud, so I will order a spring and sprung shield at some point. It came with new tips inside thankfully.

    I will order a new liner once I've taken the handle apart and know what it takes. I'll clean up the roller, and set the tension, and hope for the best.

    It takes a hobby gas cylinder too, but the tube that screws on to the hobby cylinder doesn't have a fitting on the end. Where can I get one? Have searched to no avail.

    In the long run I'll use pub gas but I just want to use the little hobby cylinder I have until I've got one, or both, welders working well.


    Thanks,


    Matt
     
  16. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,302
    uk Bristol
    Not sure if you mean the disposable regulator OR the fitting on end of small tube that screws on to reg ??
    This link is the reg (2nd item down) http://www.weldequip.com/regulators-gas.htm If not then you may need to measure the diameter of the thread on the reg if you have it and look on ebay for say a "1/8 bsp female to hose barb" . Maybe something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSP-Femal...hash=item1c3714def9:m:m1qV_kev_wNY3rdQUARo3JQ
    Note could be metric or imperial
     
  17. Baines93 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire, UK.
    Ah, thanks a lot, the item in the second link appears to be what I need. I shall measure up and get that ordered, cheers!

    I will clean up the rollers, and improve the squidgy trigger feel. With the handle stripped down I'll be able to see if that needs anything, and inspect the liner condition and type. Then with that fitting, gas shield spring and shield, and maybe a new liner, with the new wire spool I should have it working :whistle:
     
  18. Dan93 Member

    Messages:
    21
    Location:
    Surrey
    Hi, sorry to drag up an old post, did you manage to find a new swan neck for your mighty mig 130xt? I’ve just had one given to me but requires this part.

    the eBay sellers are saying I need a genuine Sealey one.
     
  19. Dan93 Member

    Messages:
    21
    Location:
    Surrey
    To anyone looking in the future, this is the correct neck.
     
    • 9024C4FD-596F-41C4-8205-20717FF24A11.jpeg
  20. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,302
    uk Bristol
    Bit cheaper than a genuine Sealey one I guess Dan
     
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