Good progress today ,got a bit sunburnt tho , insulation and purlin installation tomorrow[ if Ican get help the roofing sheets as well , overall size 12 x 10 ft ,
ChrisATTACH=full]142078[/ATTACH]
nice build there but id have put the doorway more in the corner as your losing a little bit of space
query why didnt you just run long lengths from floor to ceiling where windows was as that would have given you more strength and also if needed you could change the windows later or replace that cross member those windows are sat upon can fail badly if they rot out in years to come
The door is as far into the corner as can be due to the shape of the bank in the garden, the actual shape is rhomboid , it's 12 ft wide at the back and 10 at the front , 10 ft deep, the windows are well supported , all the timber is tanalised, 4 × 2 , 3×2 & 2×2, the back elevation is steel box profile as is the right hand, these are not visible , the front and side will be shiplap, the entire inside will be insulated and lined with 18 m ply, the deck is 4 x 2 tanalised with an 18mm ply floor, this is also insulated, roof 18 mm ply with 4 x 2 supports and 50 m insulation with 3 x 2 purlins to support roofing sheets and provide free flow air via vented soffits,The internal area is about 110 Sq ft which is big enough for my needs, Ihave a life size image of a series 1 land rover ,it was part of a marketing display for Land Rover, it will be the mural for the back wall , there is no intention to use it as a workshop just a "cave", it will rot out eventually but as Iam pushing 70 I won' be worrying about it!! More pics will follow
Chris
Well , got the roof on today, tyvek membrane under the tin , 50 mm insulation on 18 mm deck, 2 panels notched and fitted to back wall , membrane fitted to other walls a couple of little bits to do before cladding , the East wall is done, more materials to be ordered, shopping tomorrow,
Chris
Nice work. A couple of roof lights rather than side windows would have also worked well.Good light but the mrs wouldn't be able to see when you are in there as well. ;-)
It's south and west facing, so plenty of light, in the winter months the sun is much lower so even then there will be enough, my garage is my workshop it houses my landy and all my woodwork tools and machines, this is just a den, the location was determined by an existing concrete base and a very rough retaining wall,as was the shape, the windows were cheap at 25 quid each, the shed that was there when we bought the house was terrible, will up date as I go ,
Chris
Well progress today , back wall clad with the box profile tin, a moment was when the hammer I had put on the roof fell off and hit me on the head when I as bending down so it fell a couple f feet further, #$@k that urt , plenty of blood, an egg on the bonce , had to have an emergency lay down and a pint of Hobgoblin to stave off the pain, also fitted the double lazed units to the windows, because there is no cladding to 2 elevations there is still a little movement in the door fame, will sort that when the shiplap arrives, also got all the plastic tape stuff off the frames,
I feel another beer coming on,
Chris
Have I made a mistake? I have covered the frame of my shed with breathable membrane and on the 2 unseen elevations screwed box profile steel straight on top , is this a bad thing ?.. The back Ican easily unscrew and fit a spacer batten but the east side is not acessible, the insulated roof has ventilation in all directions so Im to not worried about that,
Cheers
Chris
but id batten it out myself before the steel cover goes on it
all your trying to do is stop the damp rotting from inside at the back of the steel roofs surfer from this, unknown on side panels however on a garage with just side panels it drips like hell inside of them
the membrane should stop this penetrating the shed however may suffer from damp rot on the metal
On tin roofing here I believe they use a type of tar paper under the steel, it must be pulled absolutely tight and have no sags. Sags equals damp problems and leaks. I can’t recall if battens were used or not but the steel goes into the tar paper and screws into the rafters. Remember to use a wooden, hide or lead hammer when beating the flashing around the profiles of the tin.
Ok , thanks , will remove back panels and slip some battens in , there is a bit of sag in the membrane under the steel in the roof but there is plenty of air flow, the one side I can't get to will have to stay as it is,there will be insulation behind the internal ply linings, I will ensure there is an air gap between the insulation and the inside of the breathable membrane that is against the steel, there is some air flow already via the corrugations, any further advice welcome
Thanks
More progress, very pleased that there are only 4 5 inch long of cuts from the first 12 lengths of cladding, using lost tite screws, achy legs stopped play
I have 18 more lengths left , think I have over estimated a bit
Chris
A bit more progress, I hate working off a ladder, been up and down like a brides nightie, West wall now fully clad, fascia vented soffit to be fitted , the overhanging rafters at front wil probably get cut into a fair taper to meet up with the yet to be ordered steel barge end, when the cladding is all on then I will machine up rebated trim for the window and door reveals, hopefully I can get some cedar for this,
Weather proof now, roof line to be trimmed up next, door on 4 inch SS butts, window and door trims to be made and fitted need to find some straight grained timber for that,also bottom to have some wire mesh and tanalised timber fitted
Chris
A bit more progress, due to my lack of knowledge the roofline trim is proving to be a headache, the front is 200 x 200 grey steel, in order to trim the visible end I will have to cut the edge of the roofing off, all down to lack of planning and experience, that's life , sorted out my solar panel and the computer fans for ventilation, drawing in from top of south facing front and out of the bottom at the back, if the fans arent running then there will be a natural flow I hope, Really the finer details have caused me the most problems, the shed is strong and dry, lots of lessons learned, also the front of the rafters wil have to be beveled to be above the bottom of the edge of the steel trim, gonna be a pain off a ladder, will be glad to get this part done.