JoelC
Member
- Messages
- 157
I've started this thread over on LandyZone last year, but I'm getting to a stage where I'm going to need some welding / fabrication advice so I thought I'd post it over here also.
From October 2012:
Just after I'd bought it
300TDI with 176k on the clock.
List of Jobs so far
Engine / Mechanical Jobs:
- New Battery - Done
- Good clean
- Fix rear diff oil leak
- Timing Belt Change
- Fluids Change / Service
Electrical Jobs
- Rear electric windows not working
- New driver side light (Current one works, but the bulb holder needs fixing as the bulb falls out)
- Sort out the mass of wires in the engine bay
Body
- New rear arch needs welding in
- Passenger side wing appears to be a little out of shape, so the bonnet doesn't fit quite right
- Waxoyl Inside chassis Rails
- Shultz Underbody panels & underside
- Fix body panel corrosion
- New boot floor
- Weld up rear inner wing panels
Blingy Bits
- Diff Guards
- CB Radio
- Second battery and Split charge system
- New rear bumper - current one is huge
- New winch bumper
- Winch
- Rock Sliders
- New steering Damper
- Spare wheel
- Breathers
Underside is pretty good, but I'll probably break out the waxoyl anyway
End of October 2012
So spent today stripping out the rear of the disco. Besides the carpet being sodden though to the soundproofing (Not sure on the location of the leak as yet) and the seats being damp, its not too bad.
Carpets and soundproofing all in the skip, they stunk - bad, and some rotten bits. Seats and trim all in the office room on tarpaulin to dry out.
Boot floor isn't that bad, its corroded and there is a hole in part of the passenger side, not sure if its worth replacing the whole floor until I've given it a going over with a wire brush. I may just replace it to save grief down the line
No, I don't know what the green earth wire is for either yet - it looks bodged, I think possibly the spot lights but I'm not sure.
I have unsuccessfully tried to remove the seat belt mounting points from the boot floor, but two torx bits and a breaker bar later, they are still stuck fast. Soaking them in WD40 to see if that helps.
Both inner rear wings are rusted and will need welding - I'm not sure if you can buy replacement panels or if its just patchwork welding required:
RH Side:
LH Side
Driver side rear arch needs replacing
Fuel sender pipes are rusted to feck, and will need replacing, the plastic pretty much disintegrated on touch.
Managed to get the towbar and bumper off. Ended up grinding / cutting off two of the bolts as the fixed nuts snapped off, one of the bolts sheared on the other side. Then a fookin great lump hammer to get the towbar off.
Looks like the towbar took a whack as the rear crossmember is bent in the middle a little. Nothing too bad, I don't think it will cause any issues
I think I will need to remove the rear quarter panels to be able to gauge where I need to cut out the bad inners.
I also found out why the diff is leaking, there is one hell of a crack in the casing, not sure if there is any damage to the diff, but it still drives ok - wont drive it until I know what damage it's done to the internals.
November 2012
Firstly, a couple of new purchases
Halfords were doing a two for one offer on their industrial tool chests last weekend, so picked up this
Then I ordered my first mig welding kit from weldequip - have to add they have awesome customer service.
Gys smart mig 162, plus argon regulator and Syf helmet. Not fired up yet as I forgot to get a cylinder key
Back to the rust bucket
Managed to remove the rear quarter panel - took absolutely ages to get off, but now I know the best route, other one shouldn't be an issue. Cut out some of the major rust areas from it and started cleaning some of it up.
Continuing to try and remove the boot floor, but I need to remove the fuel tank first, fecking fuel line connector just twisted, so will need replacing
Then the nuts on the carrier mounts rounded off, so at present, the boot floor still remains in.
You can just about see the bend in the rear crossmember in this pic
Looks like its had some kind of previous repair, all thought not sure why as the other side is different
Left:
Right:
Other quarter panel out
Boot floor out
The last owner must have driven though a swamp judging by the amount of mud stuck to the chassis.
Also looks like the sedimenter has been bypassed at some point, and I found out what the additional wires are for running over the boot floor - the loom for the fuel sender looks like it got chopped and they just bodged it.
Next jobs are to pull all the loom out and then pressure wash the whole lot, wire brush all the chassis and then treat with fertan then paint it. Once that's done I can weld in new inner wing panels and floor supports.
Additionally I need a new fuel tank support, as its rusted away.
More in next post
From October 2012:
Just after I'd bought it
300TDI with 176k on the clock.
List of Jobs so far
Engine / Mechanical Jobs:
- New Battery - Done
- Good clean
- Fix rear diff oil leak
- Timing Belt Change
- Fluids Change / Service
Electrical Jobs
- Rear electric windows not working
- New driver side light (Current one works, but the bulb holder needs fixing as the bulb falls out)
- Sort out the mass of wires in the engine bay
Body
- New rear arch needs welding in
- Passenger side wing appears to be a little out of shape, so the bonnet doesn't fit quite right
- Waxoyl Inside chassis Rails
- Shultz Underbody panels & underside
- Fix body panel corrosion
- New boot floor
- Weld up rear inner wing panels
Blingy Bits
- Diff Guards
- CB Radio
- Second battery and Split charge system
- New rear bumper - current one is huge
- New winch bumper
- Winch
- Rock Sliders
- New steering Damper
- Spare wheel
- Breathers
Underside is pretty good, but I'll probably break out the waxoyl anyway
End of October 2012
So spent today stripping out the rear of the disco. Besides the carpet being sodden though to the soundproofing (Not sure on the location of the leak as yet) and the seats being damp, its not too bad.
Carpets and soundproofing all in the skip, they stunk - bad, and some rotten bits. Seats and trim all in the office room on tarpaulin to dry out.
Boot floor isn't that bad, its corroded and there is a hole in part of the passenger side, not sure if its worth replacing the whole floor until I've given it a going over with a wire brush. I may just replace it to save grief down the line
No, I don't know what the green earth wire is for either yet - it looks bodged, I think possibly the spot lights but I'm not sure.
I have unsuccessfully tried to remove the seat belt mounting points from the boot floor, but two torx bits and a breaker bar later, they are still stuck fast. Soaking them in WD40 to see if that helps.
Both inner rear wings are rusted and will need welding - I'm not sure if you can buy replacement panels or if its just patchwork welding required:
RH Side:
LH Side
Driver side rear arch needs replacing
Fuel sender pipes are rusted to feck, and will need replacing, the plastic pretty much disintegrated on touch.
Managed to get the towbar and bumper off. Ended up grinding / cutting off two of the bolts as the fixed nuts snapped off, one of the bolts sheared on the other side. Then a fookin great lump hammer to get the towbar off.
Looks like the towbar took a whack as the rear crossmember is bent in the middle a little. Nothing too bad, I don't think it will cause any issues
I think I will need to remove the rear quarter panels to be able to gauge where I need to cut out the bad inners.
I also found out why the diff is leaking, there is one hell of a crack in the casing, not sure if there is any damage to the diff, but it still drives ok - wont drive it until I know what damage it's done to the internals.
November 2012
Firstly, a couple of new purchases
Halfords were doing a two for one offer on their industrial tool chests last weekend, so picked up this
Then I ordered my first mig welding kit from weldequip - have to add they have awesome customer service.
Gys smart mig 162, plus argon regulator and Syf helmet. Not fired up yet as I forgot to get a cylinder key
Back to the rust bucket
Managed to remove the rear quarter panel - took absolutely ages to get off, but now I know the best route, other one shouldn't be an issue. Cut out some of the major rust areas from it and started cleaning some of it up.
Continuing to try and remove the boot floor, but I need to remove the fuel tank first, fecking fuel line connector just twisted, so will need replacing
Then the nuts on the carrier mounts rounded off, so at present, the boot floor still remains in.
You can just about see the bend in the rear crossmember in this pic
Looks like its had some kind of previous repair, all thought not sure why as the other side is different
Left:
Right:
Other quarter panel out
Boot floor out
The last owner must have driven though a swamp judging by the amount of mud stuck to the chassis.
Also looks like the sedimenter has been bypassed at some point, and I found out what the additional wires are for running over the boot floor - the loom for the fuel sender looks like it got chopped and they just bodged it.
Next jobs are to pull all the loom out and then pressure wash the whole lot, wire brush all the chassis and then treat with fertan then paint it. Once that's done I can weld in new inner wing panels and floor supports.
Additionally I need a new fuel tank support, as its rusted away.
More in next post