? Always used them on such work, unless I was short of a different size temparydomed nuts now hey..your getting better but seriously mate that is a fine looking gate
Not if I can get away with it. I want to avoid the (I bought some kit online and stuck it all together with a mig look). Walking down the row on the way for some lunch when the first resin fixes on the hinge side cured, convinced me its the best way (lots of real nasty gates)Very nice job there Kent - I like that a lot!
Do you not weld both above and below where the uprights pass through the horizontal bars? I always do, but I've often felt it was overkill.
Very tidy.
The little bit of ocd in me is rebelling at the Margins either side though.
Ha have a look at the random edges on that stone and the packing washers. Also the overhang on the capping stones. you can't have a real stupid long latch
Not if I can get away with it. I want to avoid the (I bought some kit online and stuck it all together with a mig look). Walking down the row on the way for some lunch when the first resin fixes on the hinge side cured, convinced me its the best way (lots of real nasty gates)
Up on the voltage and get firmly into spray. This will spread things out and reduce the reinforcement on top. Don't go mad mind or your next problem will be undercut.Whilst we're on that subject, is there an easy way to produce a nicely shaped concave fillet weld around a 12mm or so round bar?
Up on the voltage and get firmly into spray. This will spread things out and reduce the reinforcement on top. Don't go mad mind or your next problem will be undercut.
Firstly if it's Galv that will fill any void good enough. This one wasn't, I am loosing Galv on a lot of jobs now due to the appoaling quality and lack of service. Get enough etch paint in there and alough you might get staining (note the latch is hot riveted at this point) it will last a long long time. We have ended up in this "Galv trap" mind set ImoSo do you weld all round the join underneath, or just a couple of decent sized tacks?
Only asking as I'm quite new to this gate making lark, and I'd like to know how others do it.
Personally I've been welding all round both top and bottom but I've always thought that it was unnecessary other than to 'seal' the joint and prevent water traps. If this is indeed total overkill, I'll follow your example and save welding time. It would certainly make the job look neater too, as I often struggle to get a tidy fillet around a small diameter bar.
Whilst we're on that subject, is there an easy way to produce a nicely shaped concave fillet weld around a 12mm or so round bar?
Richard it's 30x8 with 12mm bar! The bottom fog bar spacings are under 50mm gaps.Up on the voltage and get firmly into spray. This will spread things out and reduce the reinforcement on top. Don't go mad mind or your next problem will be undercut.
Stick makes lovely welds around the likes of railheads etc. A nice 6013 and on many you can run clean round 360 degrees at times. I set up using stick because it's all I had at the time Issues are distortion and making sure every last tiddly bit of slag is off, hence time. Your correct about the caddy duty is important as your constant stop start at maximum.Ah my apologies - I should have made it clear - I'm stick welding!
I do have an ESAB 200i Caddy, but I've always felt that 8 or 10mm was a little beyond its capabilities, so on the last couple of gates I've been using the arc welder. I'll have another go with the mig, and I'll try setting it manually rather than letting it decide its own settings. It would certainly speed things up a bit if I could use the Caddy!
I'll report back when I've had a crack at it.