Hi all, I'm in the process of building a hydraulic log splitter. I thought I'd share my progress with you all. I'll power it off the trailer tipping pipe on my IH 434. I've got a JCB 3C Leg to build the log splitter around. I've also got a double acting spool valve with built in pressure relief valve to control it. Here's the JCB leg I started with. The first thing I'll need to do is cut off all the old box and the foot. Then I'll need to get some hose's made up and check it works okay off the tractor hydraulics. Once that's confirmed I'll flip the leg upside down and weld an extension onto the smaller piece of box section, to that I will weld a splitting head. I'll then mount a table to the larger piece of box section and have the splitter doing all the work on the return stroke. I'll need to build a 3 point linkage and put a base on it so it stands up on its own when its not on the tractor. Cheers,
We use one made out of a JCB lifting leg on the push stroke at a farm where we cut wood. It runs well off tractor hydraulics. Only thing I would do different on the one we use is put the splitting head on the leg and have it pushing through the wood against a flat plate as it is the other way round at present. If I was doing one from the start I would make it a vertical splitter so the work can be nearer the ground if you want to split heavy stuff.
My wife and i made our first log splitter nearly nineteen years ago, new version two years later and a further improved version three years later. The newest version still works and gets better each year ! Moans a wee bit when a knotty log gets put in position for splitting. A wee bit of lubrication and it’s fine again. Kids couldn’t manage without them !
Yes, typically that's the case and I believe that to be true in this instance. However the logs we split are maximum 12" long so I'm hoping it'll be plenty powerful enough on the return stroke. The ram is also quicker on its return stroke which is quite important to me as I'd like to set it up so its foot operated, press pedal down to return ram and split log then hopefully when you lift your foot off the pedal it will push the ram up allowing me to be busy picking up the next log while the ram is extending. So its fast on the cutting stroke while I'm standing there and then during the slower extension where I can be off getting the next log ready. I haven't figured out how I'm going to make this work but i'd like it to stop in a predefined position (with an adjustable height stop). Also by flipping the leg around and using it vertically it means I can mount the table at waist height making it easier on your back. This is kind of what I'm trying to replicate, but without the PTO powered hydraulic pump: https://www.hartnett-products.ie/co...cts/new-12ton-pto-driven-tractor-log-splitter Cheers
I think you will be disappointed with the performance of the cylinder in that configuration, if you measure the cylinder and rod you can easily work out the available tonnage in each direction.
I've made abit more progress with this log splitter build. Managed to get the leg all cleaned up and the foot removed from the bottom. Also got a 3 point linkage welded on for the back of the tractor. It's given me chance to try out my new Parweld XTS 142, been running 3.2mm siftrode 7018's without any bother. I've been running them at around 120-130 amps, haven't blown any fuses or reached the duty cycle of the welder yet all positive so far. More pics to come as I progress, Cheers.
The photo doesn't show it clearly but the A frame is about 100mm deep, there's just enough room to fit a CAT 2 toplink (Its got holes for CAT 1 as well). Cheers
Have you considered building the splitter upright with the ram coming down onto a table? Its far easier to use on bigger rings because the logs don`t fall to the floor and end up all around your feet. I used a piece of thick road plate on mine, its in bits for blasting and painting ATM but will get some snaps of it when I dig it out of hibernation. Bob
I've made an extension to the inside bit of box section, created a cover around the bottom of the ram to protect the inlet/outlet on the ram and also welded the extension onto the inner bit of box. The plan is to have an axe head which is removable. Next up is to get the table welded on and an axe head made. Cheers,
Been awhile since I updated this. I'm getting there, just need to figure the linkage out. The tables on, the axe heads made and I've added some feet to help it stand on its own. Cheers, Tom
One more update now its complete. Got the linkage all sorted out and got a coat of paint on it. The spring's pull the valve block in one direction, which causes the ram to extend. The ram extends until those two nuts on the threaded bar catch, this then pulls the valve block into its neutral position. (This works like a rudimentary height control, it can be changed depending on the size of logs being split). By pressing down on the foot pedal the valve block is pushed in its other direction causing the ram to return & the log to get split. As someone pointed out above the ram is splitting on its weaker stroke, it is however plenty strong enough for what i'm trying to split. As its splitting on its return stroke its also significantly quicker and while the ram is extending you can be busy picking up the next log etc.... Cheers,
