Good for you
What about for top dressing. Apologies probably mixed my words in the title. I made a lawn lute a while back to level the bumps but will need to top dress. This looks like a more practical option as I have a fairly large lawni actually spoke to my mate (greenkeeper at golf course) about something like this after putting new turf down last year. his opinion was that they werent that good for leveling out as you are just following original contours. He said just tip top dressing on and rake it level.
i know this doesnt help with help to bending steel.....
This looks like a more practical option as I have a fairly large lawn
i actually spoke to my mate (greenkeeper at golf course) about something like this after putting new turf down last year. his opinion was that they werent that good for leveling out as you are just following original contours. He said just tip top dressing on and rake it level.
i know this doesnt help with help to bending steel.....
150sq m or thereabouts.Define large.
Sound advice there [in fact beat me to it and I used to be in the job too]
150sq m or thereabouts.
Again, more for top dressing than levelling
Yea fair thanks. Might do that and save the money then. Looked like an easier option to begin with but nonetheless that looks doableEasy peasy at that size. Wheelbarrow > drop the t/dressing in small heaps evenly[ish] spaced apart > using your lute [never heard it called that ] or the back of a wide rake spread it out over the area, job done. Or broadcast the t/dressing using a shovel and repeat the spreading method as above. This might explain it better than my wording above.
On our larger greens, having first spread the t/dressing through a fertiliser broadcast spreader, I just used a ride-on mower with a drag mat towed behind it.
hope this helps.
Beer keg might be a more practical size. Might try it for the sake of welding something if I can get the parts cheapGet an oil drum and cut each end off with maybe 2" of 'side' left on each end. Connect them together the correct distance part with ribs made from either timber (if you want to remove them later) or steel (if you want to keep them). Now you have the basic shape of of a tube. Roll a piece of perforated sheet around the cylinder, tack welding or pop riveting into place using the 2" cuff you left on when you cut the ends off (the perf sheet is pretty flexible so you shouldn't need any kind of bender).
Fashioning a handle should be easy enough using timber or mild steel.
I assume they usually aren't parallel then?If you can get a beer keg with parallel sides I agree.
Thats a fantastic idea. Well doneWhat about a washing machine drum? Or two welded end to end?
Quite often they are barrel shaped, so they bulge in the middle. I’m sure parallel ones exist though.I assume they usually aren't parallel then?
Could use the ends of the tumble dryer drums as per @Longhorn6120 's suggestion with the oils drum. Then bridge the gap with mesh. Best of both weldsthe perforations wont be big enough