Getting started with Flux Cored - some early questions

  1. dobson156 New Member

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    So following on from this thread:

    https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...a-budget-mig-welder-for-infrequent-use.92133/

    I took the last posts advice and bought a 2nd hand Clarke 151en.

    The project I have bought the welder for is all 3mm steel - so I figure it's best to learn on this gauge material. I bought some plate to practice on until I am able to produce a decent enough weld.

    I am using the setting details on page 29 of the units manual:

    https://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/mig_welders/mig90en_151en.pdf

    I've done a lot of read and watching videos on mig/flux cored welding and I have been trying to do some simple Tee joins.

    One source I saw said that I should try and do a continuous 'e' shape whilst I pull back across the work piece.

    However when I did this I got a lot of splatter (but that could be normal for flux cored??), my grips and magnets are now covered in beads, and I also don't think that I had a good slag coverage.

    Should I drop the 'e' shape and just try and get a straight line weld squared away first?

    And if I do that and still don't get good slag coverage after that are there any settings on the machines I could alter? (wire speed?)
     
  2. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

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    theres alot more splatter with gasless

    my settings are min a3 4/5 wire speed or max 1 or a 2 same wire speed

    i zig zag over each parent metal
     
  3. dobson156 New Member

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    Thanks for the response, is that with a 151 with 0.9mm flux cored, and are those setting for 3mm mild?

    Those settings seem a lot lower than those listed in the guide. Which suggest A-3-MAX wire speed 8 (if I've read it correctly).

    I'll give them a go though.
     
  4. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

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    a 3 max is for 5mm

    a 3 min 4/5 wire speed or max 1to a 2

    using a 150 0.8 gasless wire
     
  5. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Little steps first, running comes later. ;)
     
  6. dobson156 New Member

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    Ah okay, I couldn't tell whether that was just the technique I should use from day 1, or whether it's something I should do once I've got the basics down.
     
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  7. Munkul Member

    Messages:
    1,961
    Cumbria, UK
    did you change the polarity? solid wire with gas uses electrode positive, and fluxcore 99.99% of the time uses electrode negative.

    nearly EVERYONE misses this absolutely BASIC thing and writes fluxcore off as messy and spattery.

    some cheaper welders are a pain to swap polarity on, too, you may need to open that case up... but you'll never make a proper weld with it otherwise.

    Also, fluxcore uses less voltage than you'd expect. too much will make it spatter.
     
  8. dobson156 New Member

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    Location:
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    Okay, I'll give those settings a go
     
  9. dobson156 New Member

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    Location:
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    Yep, and on the Clarke 151en it's obvious and easy to change (the electrode terminals are external)


    Hmm, I am just a bit confused as the manual for the welder seems to suggest otherwise.
     
  10. dobson156 New Member

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    Location:
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    Ok, I've just done some 'straight line' test welds using "A-3-MIN with wirespeed 4.5 (A3Min4.5)" and "A-3-MAX with wirespeed 7 (A3Max7)"

    These are the results:

    Straight beads on 3mm mild steel plate:

    [​IMG]

    The top two are A3Min4.5 and the bottom two are A3Max7. The lower settings are definitely easier to control because it's a finer line being produce. The different between drawing a line with a pencil and a wax crayon.

    The reverse side of that plate:

    [​IMG]

    However, when I came to welding a Tee joint the results where as follows:

    A3Min4.5

    [​IMG]

    And:

    A3Max7

    [​IMG]

    So from my perspective the first first one isn't even a joint, its just a huge mess (ok they're both ugly) whereas at least with the A3Max7 there is something that resembles a seam.

    Any thoughts?
     
  11. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

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    first pic first line you was rushing due to its brightness of welding 2nd line more spot on

    3rd and 4th line too much weld

    tee piece it apears that you have drifted as you went along it

    also looks like your rushing

    my settings are only a guide you can vary the wire speed to your own liking

    id have gone too a2 max speed 4/5 before id have jumped to a3 max speed 7

    everything on this is with a clake 150 or sip 150 gasless welding 3mm and 5mm steel

    https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/first-build-rocket-burner.45497/#post-879494
     
  12. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

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    Location:
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    with 151 theres 2 models

    blue model you need to switch it down to get 2 and 3 so it would be min a2/3 max a2/3

    original.jpg

    with the red one its just switch the switches to get 1/2/3 set on min or max

    $_86.JPG


    so heres a quick guide for the 151

    this is how i see it as reference points for clarke 150/151

    done by sheet steel thickness

    1 Min 0.8 sheet
    A 2 Min 1/2mm
    A 3 Min 2mm/3mm

    1 Max 2mm/3mm
    A 2 Max 4mm
    A 3 Max 5mm

    then adjust your wire speed to suit i set mine around 4/5 and adjust from there on any sheet thickness
     
  13. dobson156 New Member

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    Location:
    uk
    I have the 151en Turbo. That's the blue one with switches.

    So hang on here, What is the order of the powers.

    Is it, from lowest to highest:

    1 Min
    A 2 Min
    A 3 Min
    1 Max
    A 2 Max
    A 3 Max


    When you say brightness, are you literally referring to how shiney it is?

    I will do some more practices with a3min and try another tee piece but slow it right down. I clearly did drift a bit but I think I was just following the weld pool.

    On the higher setting the weld pool felt as though it was getting 'sucked' towards the join (probably because of the faster wire speed) whereas the slower one it felt was though it just fell onto the parent piece with gravity.
     
  14. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

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    Location:
    westyorkshire
    the weld is bright to my eyes when your welding it gives the impression our burning through

    yes its low to high

    another point is your looking for a concave to your welding not a bulbous weld
     
  15. dobson156 New Member

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    Location:
    uk

    Oh right, but if I slow down aren't I more likely to burn through the material?
     
  16. Bear

    Bear Member

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    Location:
    Manchester, UK
    You will eventually blow through the metal but its a simple fix to weld the burn through back up once you let the steel cool down.

    Its not a race so slow down your travel speed and use the settings in the top T piece. Slowing down will let you get the weld into the joint much easier and much more controlled.

    As you are a beginner blow through are enivetable.

    Why not let people know where you are in the UK and someone maybe close enough to pop round or you go to them to give you a few pointers. Half hour with someone who knows whats, what will make a big difference to you.
     
    slim_boy_fat and gaz1 like this.
  17. dobson156 New Member

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    Location:
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    Ok, I'll try that tonight and report back.

    I am in the High Peak area, between Manchester and Buxton.

    I'd love to be shown if anybody is local and willing - I also don't mind travelling with my equipment anyone who is a bit further a field.
     
  18. dobson156 New Member

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    Location:
    uk
    Ok, I've slowed the whole process down and really made sure I am feeding the pool that is created.

    These are my current results for a Tee joint an an outside corner joint.

    Before clean up

    [​IMG]

    The slag doesn't seem to be that even over the weld? Note the gaps are intentional - they are 3 different attempts. The middle one I think is the best

    [​IMG]

    The big gap 1/3 of the way in is where I stopped, adjusted and continued. The smaller one 1/4 of the way in is where I went too fast and the 'pocket' opened up.

    After clean up

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Inside of outside corner joint:

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Munkul Member

    Messages:
    1,961
    Cumbria, UK
    Where's all this spatter coming from?

    This was done with Lincoln NR211MP wire, set to the Lincoln reccomendations.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. dobson156 New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    uk
    I have no idea. It's flux cored - I thought it as supposed to be quite messy?

    The electrodes are set up for 'no gas'. The wire I am using is also 'no gas'.
     
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