Less stick out the better. Oh, and my thoughts on int tapers and dogs - for home/hobby use you dont need them. My frizt has driven inch plus milling cutters, multi head cutters, flycutter - never had a slip. The slots are there, never fitted.
Vertical mills aren't stiff enough mostly to take big cuts.
Just to clarify, the collet block was bored out and threaded from the back. I turned the thread out just on the tight side to make sure it doesn’t unwind itself too readily, but my resort to a locking grub screw if needed.
Hello, excuse me for the hijack here.
I have just obtained a George Taylor Mk2 mill to refurb. The person I bought it from had already removed the spindle, so now is the ideal time to modify it. It seems to me that the spindle could be modified to take an ER32 collet directly just by reboring/grinding an 8 degree taper in the existing bore, and the spindle is large enough to turn off the existing thread and re-thread M40*1.5 to take a standard ER32 collet nut, does this sound like a good thing to do? The existing taper in the bore is 32.2 at the widest and it would only mean grinding out a small extra bit towards the back of the taper (0mm at the wide end and 1mm to remove from the back of the taper)
Also, has anyone else removed the spindle and can confirm how it is assembled - it seems to me to be an odd construction. The only way I seem to be able to assemble the bits (I didn't take it apart) is the following, from the spindle nose:
Felt washer, 51109 thrust bearing, steel 2 part split ring, tapered bronze bush, Steel spacer about 30mm long with keyway, pulley, another longer spacer with plate/felt washer for lower part of upper housing, upper ball bearing, another spacer with spring inside and upper plate/felt washer and finally the top adjusting nut.
Why this seems odd to me is that the spindle is only held into the head by the bronze bush pressed into the head? Is this right? The force from the cutter tends to pull it down so that seems a bit of a poor design?
Thanks for any help