Gear lever boot trim

  1. jgr2015 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Ireland
    A small bit of metalworking in the name of tidying a Mercedes 190.

    The original plastic gear lever boot clips neatly onto a plastic trim piece. However that boot is torn and I couldn't see a way to fit any other boot onto that trim piece so off we go..

    Some brake pipe bent to shape and six clip type arrangements bent from mild steel. All silver soldered together to form this:

    [​IMG]Trial fit into surround:

    [​IMG]

    Then take leather boot bought from ebay, remove not-very-effective elastic from lower edge, fold under pipe, tuck into the clips and crimp clips with pliers to secure. Some contact adhesive on folded edges of the leather to be sure, to be sure:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Wallace

    Wallace Member

    Messages:
    6,462
    Location:
    Staines, Middlesex, England.
    Nice job, better than some professional trimmers I have seen.
     
    stuvy likes this.
  3. Lazurus

    Lazurus Member

    Messages:
    590
    Location:
    Norfolk uk
    I never have any luck with silver solder, am I missing a trick?
     
  4. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Welcome aboard, @jgr2015 :waving: - that's a well-executed introduction you've given us. :thumbup:
     
  5. jgr2015 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Ireland
    Thanks for the kind words. I've learned so much from this site and the forum in particular over a good few years. It's great to finally post something!

    As to silver soldering, I've only done it a couple of times, but what I've done is get the metal nice and clean, apply flux and heat up with a propane torch. I use a Kaolin wool blanket to contain the heat. The flux bubbles a bit and then goes clear. Then feed the solder into the joint from the opposite end to where the torch is concentrated and let the solder flow toward the heat. The only time it hasn't gone right, I put it down to not enough flux - the solder was balling up on the surface and not wetting the base metal. Cleaning the joint, re-fluxing and reheat and it worked a treat.

    The solder I have is high enough silver content from memory which puts it toward the lower end of the melting point scale (630 to 660 deg C). It's also more expensive but a small amount goes a long way.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  6. RonA

    RonA specialist in repairing sealed for life equipment

    Messages:
    1,351
    Location:
    Stockton on Tees, UK
    Bet it worked out a site cheaper than the manafacturers part. Nice job
    RonA
     
  7. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask. Same rules for everyone

    Messages:
    10,817
    Location:
    A Padded Cell.

    Clean joints, decent flux and do not under heat or over heat the joint.
     
    RonA, slim_boy_fat and Lazurus like this.
  8. Tom O Member

    Messages:
    184
    Location:
    Canada
    What is the best flux for silver soldering just borax or mixed with something to form a paste.
     
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