Gas forge

  1. Oldtimearcwelder Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Kerry
    Hey guys I'm looking for advice on building a propane forge. . I was going to build the floor out of fire brick and then use refractory cement and cast it in a half barel and leave the lot down on the fire brick
     
  2. Brad93

    Brad93 M J B Engineering

    Messages:
    9,324
    Location:
    Essex
    My dad built one with refractory cement inside a beer keg.

    if you want just a normal forge look at swan forges, tried and tested
     
  3. Oldtimearcwelder Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Kerry
    Did the refractory cement hold up. I'm kinda thinking of making the roof that I can lift up on fire brick if I need to put anything large in.
     
  4. Brad93

    Brad93 M J B Engineering

    Messages:
    9,324
    Location:
    Essex
    Not a single crack in it. Not cheap stuff though!
     
  5. Oldtimearcwelder Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Kerry
    I was going to use ceramic fiber blanket but I was reading up on it on different sites and they all say you need to use rigidiser on it . Did your dad plaster the cement round the keg or cast it with p plastic pipe in the middle or something
     
  6. Brad93

    Brad93 M J B Engineering

    Messages:
    9,324
    Location:
    Essex
    Cast it with a bucket in the middle. Had to smash the bucket out after, maybe some mould release agent would work.
     
  7. Oldtimearcwelder Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Kerry
    Buckets are plentiful here . I think I mite go down that road to start with . I have a burner made . I may as well use it
     
  8. DAPPH

    DAPPH as dyslexik as I'm daft

    Messages:
    2,749
    Location:
    Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
    You could use a zinc sheet or a plastic drum to make a decent liner & cast it ,then just let the forge burn the liner away . or better still jigsaw cutting a round oil drum vertically down one side , making a couple of gorilla tape bands /strips over the cleaned cut on both sides should work for a liner to cast against too . Then Stanley knife it along the seam to remove it when it is fully cured in two months time. Just make sure you have a protected entry point for the burner/burners .
     
  9. vbottles Member

    Messages:
    147
    Location:
    yorkshire uk
    How many hours do you think you will use your forge? As a solid ceramic lining will take a long time to warm up. A ceramic fibre with rigidiser (optional fire cement skim) will be at forging temp in less than 10min and welding temp soon after.
    Have you sourced a burner yet? Easiest set I've used is a forced air set up. Relies on a small fan going into 2 inch blascvk pipe with a gas line going in down stream on a needle valve, then meets forge either as a hole or ribbon burner. This does require power to operate, give easy control of heat and atmosphere. Be aware of carbon monoxide using any forge.
    For an easy and controllable venturi burner try amal burners,
    http://amalcarb.co.uk/amal-gas-injectors/propane-injectors.html
    These are controllable through the whole of there range. I was looking at 3/4 inch burner before going forced air.
    Andrew
     
  10. outofthefire

    outofthefire Member

    Messages:
    2,336
    Leeds
    My forge at work has a fire cement floor, I was really dubious about it when my boss decided to go with it (we had to replace it), but it works really well. It heats up quick and glows orange and stands up to a decent amount of work, can't remember the name, but I can look tomorrow. My one at home uses soft fire bricks, if I was going to make another i'd be tempted to use the fire cement it takes a lot more abuse.
     
  11. Oldtimearcwelder Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Kerry
    Hi guys IV made my own burner a Venturi burner. IV desired to go with ceramic fiber blanket and riddiser IV cut an old compressor tank so I will line that and then put a refractory cement floor in it
     
    DAPPH likes this.
  12. DAPPH

    DAPPH as dyslexik as I'm daft

    Messages:
    2,749
    Location:
    Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
    I got a bit surprised when I first trial tested my home made single 1.5 mm jet venturi burner with flame adjuster .
    I got a four foot long initially four inch wide purple flame out the business end , it roared like a tank without the exhaust on it … definitely a case of using ear defenders when it's on .
     
    Oldtimearcwelder likes this.
  13. Oldtimearcwelder Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Kerry
    What size pipe did you use.
     
  14. DAPPH

    DAPPH as dyslexik as I'm daft

    Messages:
    2,749
    Location:
    Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
    The gas feed pipe with the jet in it is an inch of reclaimed galv steel gas pipe . I made up a steel plug for it on the lathe then drilled a 5 mm hole to almost through & drilled the final 2 mm wall with a 1.5 mm twist drill then tig welded the plug in the de galvanised end of the pipe . On the other end of this tube which is a 10 x 10 right angle bend away from the forge I put in another plug that was welded in and tapped to take a quick release 1/4 inch supply hose .
    I then made a three legged support on a pinch bolt clamping ring to slip over the 1 " tube and opened the legs out to fit over a 44 mm Scaff tube about 8 inches long . Welded the legs to the Scaff tube , cut it at about 45 degree at the forge end to help give a flame swirl within in the forge . The jet end can now slide in and out of the venturi to give the best flame as desired then pinch bolt locked in place .
     
  15. jimbo84 Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,258
    Location:
    Up North
    I built my own burner using some old pipe a gas valve and a mig tip as the jet, a basic frame that holds the burner into a pile of fire bricks. Works a treat although I've dismantled it for now during a workshop move.

    I think there's a thread on it on here somewhere.

    Edit: found it https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/forge-burner-build-from-scrap.92036/

    I've changed the bricks to the heavier duty firebricks since then. The burner screw on end needs replacing now as the heat has damaged it, it's had a lot of use though.
     
  16. Oldtimearcwelder Member

    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Kerry
    IV made my burner out of 3/4 inch gun barrel with a 1 1/4 inch t on top I drilled a bolt straight through taped one end for 1/4 BSP HYD fitting and the other end for a mig tip then drilled the top of the tee and bolted the bolt to it. On the other end IV a 3/4 to 1 1 1/4 gun barrel Bush and a 1 1/4 inch bush screwed up on that.
     
  17. jhobson Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    UK
    I got this book https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gas-Burn...784735?hash=item264257739f:g:iBEAAOSw8gVfIEPm
    (that exact book - hopefully not for much longer :) )
    But you don't need it (it is available on the internet as PDF). As said^^, forced air is simplest, Amal carbs are best (special venturi, adjustments, quiet, and not much money). Ribbon burners are the latest fad and best made with castable.
    All sorts of forge designs 'work' and all need repairing eventually. I like soft firebricks with thin hard firebricks for floor. Wool faced with refractory works. Wool without ridigiser works for a while but may be heath risk of breathing wool fibres. Wool and ridigiser does not stand up against borax flux. The insulation board also works well - but not against flux.
    Benonite cat litter with perlite or vermiculite filler works but will start to melt at forge welding temps.
    To resist flux, you need hard firebricks on the floor, or cement/castable, or something sacrificial - I have used a broken-off stainless spade.
     
    DAPPH and Dcal like this.
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