Fruit press

  1. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    5,261
    UK London
    Chap on another forum asked if someone could make a missing bit for his fruit press. Something like this.

    [​IMG]

    Easy I said, even though I had to guess at the part above. Just need a bit of 4-6mm steel plate. Could I find any? No! Drove me nuts so...

    Found an odd chunk of 10mm (!)

    [​IMG]

    Chopped and beveled.

    [​IMG]

    Eventually got the hang of Mig again. I ran out of Tig gas and can't afford any more yet.

    [​IMG]

    Then suddenly.

    [​IMG]

    I'm guessing I went through to the rusty nasty old plate below. Out with the grinder.

    [​IMG]

    Fill'er up

    [​IMG]

    It's sort of ok but there are definite signs where the weld edges are/were. Is there a trick to getting "perfect" welds that you can grind to invisible? or do I just need to be a better welder?

    Eventually it will get a centre boss and I can turn it round and flush on the lathe but I am worried there will be little divots everywhere along the welds.

    [​IMG]

    S.
     
  2. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

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    Tried something similar today. 9mm structural steel. Left overs from a flitch beam.

    Back to back on the flat and beveled where they meet.
    Went as hot as the machine would go and pushed at a 70 odd degree angle forcing it into the V
    Can see a slight discolouration where the weld is but no defined edges after milling.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg

    Not the best picture. Can't remove it from the RT just yet.

    Got lucky. My welding experience totals less that an hour with a mig torch.
     
  3. waddycall

    waddycall Member

    Messages:
    887
    United Kingdom
    If you want to loose the edges you’re better off using a sanding disc on a backing pad than a flap disc. Flap discs wrap around the weld and cut into the steel either side.
     
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  4. Hitch

    Hitch Moderator Staff Member

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    11,983
    Somerset
    As above, hit the worst off with a grinding disc, then a fibre disc to finish it. Something like a 40-60grit.
    If the edges still show up, its probably more to do with lack of fusion. It does look a bit cold really.
     
  5. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

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    Thanks for the comments. I did use a big chunky cut off disk to grind off the weld and was playing with wire speeds and power settings. I think the big problem was I was a bit too casual with what for me is thick plate. I thought it would be easy compared to the relatively thin stuff I usually weld. Plus of course I usually Tig which I find easier to understand.

    I might do this again as a self teaching aid. Might as well make a useable (?) plate rather than just run beads. I might even bung this plate in the forge to anneal it and flatten it a bit before turning. Just to see how that process helps the material. It is a bit bent too...
     
  6. Richard.

    Richard. Member

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    Your lacking what should of been a spray transfer weld.
    I can see that from the pile of spatter and lacking of decent wetting on the weld toes. It’s far too cold.
    If the mig has ran out of steam at this point I’d put it to one side and go in with a decent 6013 electrode.
    If you can still see the edges where there should be metal you’ve got either undercut (not in your case) or lack of fusion (definitely in your case).
    Cut it up try again!
    Tig is certainly not the process I’d adopt either. Far too slow and risk unnecessary distortion
     
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  7. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

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    So it's a Cebora Autostar 180. I think it should have enough steam. <edit> Google suggests maybe not...

    I am tempted to chop it up and do it again. I can cut the "weld" in half and weld up the other sides, it's going to get turned down into a circle anyway.

    Tell me more about this "spray transfer". I have heard of it but never seen it done.

    10mm steel, 0.8mm Mig as above, how to do it and how will I know when I'm doing it?
     
  8. armalites Member

    Messages:
    4,205
    Herefordshire
    On my fruit press there is a piece of oak that is screwed to the plate so even thought it's the press is maybe 24" diameter the metal plate is only about 8-12"
     
  9. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

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    More power. Someone will be along with the amps but 230 ish sounds familiar.
     
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  10. Richard.

    Richard. Member

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    It doesn’t I’m afraid mate.
    180 amps isn’t spray transfer current. You need 220 or above.
    Stick weld it.
     
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  11. Windy Miller Forum Supporter

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    2,724
    Kent, UK
    I would think that a 180A machine would be way under powered for 10mm steel
     
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  12. Richard.

    Richard. Member

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    Edit I know it’s only a fruit press and strength isn’t an issue at all hence I wasn’t saying your welder is underpowered for the actual plate thickness, which it is but doesn’t matter. However it’s underpowered for achieving a nicely blended toe on that gage which you need for it to clean up properly and not show defects
     
  13. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

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    I haven't got around to swapping my reel over to 0.8mm wire and have noticed on occasion my weld noise changing to a hum. This was especially obvious welding the above pictured piece at higher amps.
    No splatter and sounds almost like a jet engine.

    Little to no info on spray transfer with 0.6mm wire but I did come across this
    image.png
    Which would suggest that getting into spray on a 180amp Machine is possible if not cost effective.

    Interested to hear thoughts on this.
    I've often wondered if it was the case. When I find that sweet spot my machine welds beautifully though very very hot.
     
  14. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    5,261
    UK London
    Thanks for the speedy replies. I'll break out the stick welder and try not to set my leg on fire. (Kemppi 250 AC/DC Kempotig).

    Am I right in thinking I need rally deep bevels? All the way to a point? Should I leave a small gap?

    Again it's 10mm plate which will be machined after welding.
     
  15. Parm

    Parm I have fun doing stuff

    Messages:
    10,058
    Location:
    Towcester
    Once I joined some thickish angle iron (8mm I think)

    Following advice from here, I made some quite deep bevels but not to a point. Then clamped it all up so I could attack both sides. 6013 rods (unknown flavour). First pass straight down the middle then overlapping welds each side.

    Left it clamped up until cold then grinding disc and finish with fibre disc. I was impressed, I’m not a welder and welds were invisible.

    6 years on and the angle iron is good as new. It’s the frame for a garden table with granite top
     
  16. Richard.

    Richard. Member

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    Does it need to be full pen?
     
  17. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

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    5,261
    UK London
    Plan is to machine say 1mm per side on the lathe. So I guess not full full.
     
  18. Richard.

    Richard. Member

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    18,197
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    Little chamfer on each side and it will be fine.
     
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  19. Hitch

    Hitch Moderator Staff Member

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    11,983
    Somerset
    If you don't want to break out the stick, set it up and do it vertical up. You should have enough power then.
     
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  20. Richard.

    Richard. Member

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    18,197
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    Do you not think that might be even more difficult to get good toe wetting hitch
     
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