Frost Biodegradable Rust Remover?

  1. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk
    Ive done a search of previous threads, and cant find an answer -

    Does anyone know much about this -

    https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-safe-rust-remover-5-litre-biodegradable-non-toxic-acids/

    Claims to be non acid etc.etc wonder treatment.


    Otherwise ill buy this, and mix with wall paper paste -

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phosphor...025226?hash=item3b3c236d8a:g:XM0AAOSwCd9dwaIQ

    I want somthing to slap on a chassis in excess, and hose / pressure wash off. Im not expecting perfection - i need to get the job done quickly, rather than mess about for 6 months procrastinating on the best possible method...

    Thank you.
     
  2. rtcosic

    rtcosic Member

    Given the description I would assume that the Frost product is a chelation agent rather like the US Evap-o-Rust product. Safe for the user and doesn't touch sound metal. But quite expensive.

    As you live in Devon I assume you have access to agricultural suppliers. Ask for Milk Stone Remover - it's phosphoric acid and should be much cheaper than eBay.

    Otherwise Citric Acid from eBay.

    If you want quick consider Hydrochloric Acid from a builder's merchant sold as brick cleaner. But that takes good PPE and care, so if you haven't used it before seek more detailed advice before use. That would need to be watched and hosed off as soon as it's done its stuff as it will attack sound metal eagerly.

    I've never had success mixing phosporic or citric acids with wallpaper paste. Applying then wrapping with cling film has worked better for me, but an entire chassis is quite a challenge.

    Be aware I've had problems with acid getting into the seams and 'closed' sections and then bleeding out through paint over time.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  3. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    5,581
    uk
    I remember using a rust remover when I was a kid. Bright green slime type stuff. Magic X or something. It was incredible. Claimed to be safe enough to eat.
    Brought up some rusty tools a treat - just rinse off with water.
    Was very upset when I tried the same on my air rifle. The best thing ever for removing the bluing :mad:
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  4. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    4,016
    east sussex
    Hydrochloric Acid isn't the best IMO and brick cleaner/acid is far to weak
    Phosphoric is the way to go,but thing is it just turns it into iron phosphate which will need scrubbing off afterwards
    Citric acid yes,but works better if the item soaks in it,as its a chassis i'd go with the phos IMHO
     
  5. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk


    Thank you.

    ebay comes up with 85% at about £20 for 2.5l delivered, or there's this locally -

    http://m.molevalleyfarmers.com/h5/r/molevalleyfarmers//mvf/store/products/mvf-milkstone-remover-20l

    Not much more than a pound a litre, but the datasheet says something like 15-30%, so it's a lot weaker.

    But I don't really know what strength I need. I'm looking to clean up a chassis that is still attached to the truck. Does not need to be spotless, but I want a reasonable result else I'd do better saving my time and money.
     
  6. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    4,016
    east sussex
    Stronger the better:thumbup:
    I've done a chassis before using 85% in a handheld sprayer,fine spray it,leave it on for a good while(overnight if you can),it'll go sort of black and glossy-ish maybe white-ish in places wash it off with a wire brush,make sure its dry and get some cover (primer etc) on it asap
     
    rtcosic and julianf like this.
  7. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    4,016
    east sussex
    Forgot to mention,is you fine spray it on wear GOGGLES fgs
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  8. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk
    The vehical is not under cover, and the weather is rubbish at the moment. Im planning on brushing on epoxy primer. Its a chassis, i dont need it pretty.

    I wondered about doing the whole lot with the acid, and then re-doing sections before painting. My experience with electrolysis is that stuff comming out the tank seems to rust slower than normal, but i dont know if its the same with the acids.

    Either way, i figured the 2nd application wouldnt need to take off much.
     
  9. johnser

    johnser Member

    Messages:
    1,921
    Location:
    North Cornwall
    The agri stuff is strong enough in my experience.

    Was part of the motivation because of its biodegradable nature? Not sure what phosphoric would end up with but doubt it'd persist for long, acid +alkali = salt +water and that. Worth considering though.
     
  10. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk
    Im not worried about the phosphoric. Its acidic, but non toxic. Or at least not toxic enough to keep it out of fizzy drinks (admittedly at far lower concentration). They throw enough phosphates on the fields round here that any i use will be a drop in the ocean.
     
    slim_boy_fat and johnser like this.
  11. 500e

    500e Always buy fire insurance a flood is hard to start

    Messages:
    4,318
    Location:
    SWest UK
    Bury it for a week then Julian :laughing:
     
  12. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk
    Ive only just dug it out, and youre suggesting i bury it again?

    Joking apart, ive wondered before if you couldnt wrap a chassis in salty wet towels and cling film, and then connect up the probes, same as you do in a standard electrolysis tank...
     
  13. rtcosic

    rtcosic Member

    I have electrolytically cleaned the chassis of a Batricar by making a temporary wooden frame lined with heavy duty polythene. The polythene was free from a local furniture shop as the wrapping off a mattress.
    Presumably that could be done for a full sized vehicle, but I don't know where to source a large enough sheet for free!

    Edit: Seems @Wightsparks has just made one for you. Long treck to borrow it though.

    I haven't tried the wet towel technique. Why not try a section and let us know how it goes? Or soak towels in phosphoric acid and wrap in cling film?
     
    Mikey D likes this.
  14. Just to throw something else into the mix here. I had a slight mishap with a works vehicle, where I thought I had parked the works van far enough away from the grinder :vsad:. I was looking at a respray on a white van as after we had rain you could imagine the brown spots/streaks until I tried this stuff out after reading various forums. Safe to say I didn't even need the T-cut after I had applied this stuff. All I did after mixing to instructions was let dry, then rinse off after. Anyway it saved my bacon & is still looking good months afterwards.

    Dan
     
  15. My friend who does motorcycle valeting, swears by this.
     
  16. rtcosic

    rtcosic Member

    Looks like Formic Acid is the 'active ingredient' for the limescale removal function.
     
  17. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk
    Don't use excess harpic in an enameled bath.

    It's fortunate I learnt that just prior to ripping out the old bath, rather than just after installing the new...

    It eats the enamel, surprisingly. Turns a smooth surface into a rough sandpaper sort of surface. Ie not what you want under your back in the bath.

    I assume it must do the same to toilets. Again I was surprised. Maybe the bath was just defective or somthing
     
  18. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk
    Ps it brings up old, tarnished, copper to look very fresh and new.
     
  19. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,428
    Location:
    devon, uk
    This is the frost stuff, right?

    Your report is interesting, as the website only talks about using it in dip tanks. You got a result on a vertical external surface though.
     
  20. No I have used the Frost stuff, but it seemed to take a while to work, although it was cold in the garage when I tried. I just mentioned this as it`s a solution that you can brush on and it converted the rust 100% & saved me an embarrassing & costly confession. I also own a Land rover so will try it out at some stage on chassis, but last year I already sand blasted & treated all the rust before repainting it all with another rust converter & then protecting the chassis with Bilt Hamber syntax 50.

    Dan
     
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