Ford Cargo 0813 info

  1. excossack Member

    Messages:
    548
    Location:
    North West
    A mate is looking at a Ford Cargo 0813 model around late 80's / 90's
    Currently sat in Spain after the current owners used it to move house.

    Questions such as;
    engine specs
    how to get to the engine
    workshop manuals
    service manuals etc.

    From what he said its not been used for a while (prob a few years) he needs to get it driving as it saves him from having to tow it across the Caminos to his house.
    Anyone with working knowledge of these trucks?
     
  2. carbon

    carbon Member

    Messages:
    1,117
    Location:
    S. Glos. U.K
    Cab can tipped to access the engine. On the rear of the cab should be a rectanglular block with a rod out one side. There is a key require to pull the rod out. Key needs to be inserted rotated and pulled to unlock the cab mountings. Not the best description of how to unlock the cab. Once unlocked the cab can be pushed up but additional catch will need to be pulled before cab can be fully tipped
     
  3. johnik

    johnik Member

    Messages:
    405
    Location:
    sunny Somerset
    brings back memories:o, gear lever in nuteral, push down and twist it, it goes floppy, there should be a rod behind the drivers seat , you use that in the trianular thingy, push in, turn and pull out, mine had a round black knob thing that you had to pull as well, cab pops up.
    my engine was a 6 litre 6 pot, very basic, just change the fluids and drive it another 1000000 km,s
     
    frank horton likes this.
  4. carbon

    carbon Member

    Messages:
    1,117
    Location:
    S. Glos. U.K
    Can’t find a picture of the key required but may be able to sort something later
     
  5. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    3,945
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    There`s one festering in the corner of the yard, I will take some snaps of the cab release gizmos later.

    Bob
     
  6. excossack Member

    Messages:
    548
    Location:
    North West
    Cheers all.
     
  7. carbon

    carbon Member

    Messages:
    1,117
    Location:
    S. Glos. U.K
    Cab key

    CD37B069-A250-4A1C-A1A3-7565CF2F2D8D.jpeg
     
  8. excossack Member

    Messages:
    548
    Location:
    North West
    That's - excellent help. Info passed over to mate in sunny Spain
     
  9. johnik

    johnik Member

    Messages:
    405
    Location:
    sunny Somerset
    and the engine stop in on the left side of the steering column, looks like a choke nob, make sure it is in before try in to fire it up
     
  10. excossack Member

    Messages:
    548
    Location:
    North West
    Cheers. Like the pull stop on a MF tractor
     
  11. arthur

    arthur arthurbikemad

    Messages:
    625
    Location:
    UK
    We still use one daily, 7.5T. (well, I say "we" I drive it.)
     
  12. normspanners Member

    Messages:
    8,748
    northwales
    If any one wants/needs one I have complete chassis rail / leg for the cab, goes under the cab floor cant remember which side now brand new ford part I bought the last one from ford----- so they said ?
     
    arthur likes this.
  13. normspanners Member

    Messages:
    8,748
    northwales
    I have had three of them, with the 6cyl Dover engines some were 4's but have no pull.
    think that was on the inline pumps VVV the later rotaries had ign key stop IIRC

    [​IMG]

    they have a cold start device too, on inline pumps its the electrical connector in middle of the pic but the temp sensor can go down, many people fitted a switch in the cab HEHE good for overtaking too:whistle: [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2018
  14. carbon

    carbon Member

    Messages:
    1,117
    Location:
    S. Glos. U.K
    Had a 2115 with key stop with an in-line pump
     
  15. normspanners Member

    Messages:
    8,748
    northwales
    Thinking back I am sure my youngest one (it got stolen) had key stop. and that was inline.
     
  16. normspanners Member

    Messages:
    8,748
    northwales
    Oil /filter change first thing to do, the oil used to thicken up and hold the engine back from starting.
     
  17. normspanners Member

    Messages:
    8,748
    northwales
    :waving:and the cab lift assister spring used to snap the cab chassis legs due to rot :D
     
  18. johnik

    johnik Member

    Messages:
    405
    Location:
    sunny Somerset
    dont forget your
     
  19. andyclimax Member

    Messages:
    76
    Location:
    yarm Teesside uk
    i had a x fire brigade one as a motor home when i was drag racing. good thing but very slow , but i was running near max weight.
    my opinion tell him to avoid it. the air over hydraulic master cylinders are not available any more. i got the last 2 in the uk 10 years ago. when the trucks were in use and parts were around it was £20 for one. i found 2 at £200 each and i got the last. hand brake cables went up to about £80 each. if its not been used to brake lines will be rotted and it is hard to find anyone to flare that size pipe, it is big stuff.
    good things if right walk away if not it will be a money pit.
    if he really wants a truck like that tell him to get a x fleet dhl type thing. full service history and sort of looked after. a pal of mine has had a few and turned them in to horse boxes. all parts are available and cheep.
     
  20. CKJDJK

    CKJDJK Member

    Messages:
    282
    Location:
    Northumberland
    Gear change link uj wears making gears difficult to select. Used to be able to get kit for repair. Syncro wears on four speed box causing to jump out of gears. Mirror mounts on door frame crack causing mirrors to wobble badly. Some early inline pumps had a manual excess fuel device which you operated by pulling the little plunger with out operating throttle. Operating throttle caused it to release. Lift pump sometimes had a glass bowl fitted to it or near by. A sediment trap. It had a gauze filter in the top which blocked easily. Fuel filter were Crossland 522s. Come lift pumps had a disc on the top which also hid a strainer. As already said, watch out when lifting cab. Lifting spring wears and cab becomes heavy to lift. Cab chassis rails rot and if lifted over centre there is no way to stop cab kissing the floor. There was a bolt in the cab stay that when removed allowed the cab to tilt a bit further for engine swops etc. Brakes are probably air over hydraulic with spring brake on rods for parking on rear axle. May be drum or disc on brakes on front. Brakes can be a bit sharp when working correctly and pull to one side if one side not working. Not to bad to drive but had no street cred back then. Good visability even down to curbs due to door glazing. If you do not have correct handle. Reach behind drivers side back of cab an dpull lever for cab lock. This will release first stage then pull handle behind cab? to release secondary catch then lift. Empty cab first. Open doors as it helps but only if door check straps are good.
     
    andyclimax likes this.
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