If thats all that needs to come off dont use a standard 2 flute drill as it wont be very accurate, the least worn flute would probably cut the whole amount throwing off centre, that is a job for a reamer, £££.Cant think why not. Especially as you’re only taking .25mm off.
That is a good idea I could use the pulley itself with a washer in the center to center the drill or reamerIf thats all that needs to come off dont use a standard 2 flute drill as it wont be very accurate, the least worn flute would probably cut the whole amount throwing off centre, that is a job for a reamer, £££.
If it were mine, turn a bit of silver steel or hss to the final size and grind straight flutes and a bit of clearance so it can cut.
The OD is tapered for the pulley? You could turn a matching taper and have a bore to guide your drill/reamer/tap and keep it true.
I reakon with that and a guide bush turned up it should be doable without cutting the front out.That’s the one
Its the start of the end once those damper bolts come loose and the damper has chattered away on the end of the crank, new damper wont cure it because of the wear in the crank. Only bodge I know to work is to smarm araldite on the nose of the crank and inside the damper, then carefully slide the damper back on, with a big washer under the retaining bolt the excess araldite will be forced back into the gap when the bolt is tightened. Just saying, had to do this on a shogun I had where our numpty fitter never did the retaining bolt up to the correct torque after changing the timing belts.