Cooker cable extension

  1. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    4,306
    Location:
    bristol england
    As per the title I need to extend safely a cooker wire

    The cable drops down from a hole in the wall and at the moment the bloke gas a larger chock block joining some newer cable to the existing cooker that he done him self a few years ago

    Now hes having a newer cooker Put in and asked me to wire the new one in

    I poped over last night to see what is what and confound the chock block joint and said I'm not doing that unless it's done safe so I dont mind doing it but is needs a proper joint

    Yes a bee cable would be great but the old is plastered in to the wall

    I'm thinking trunking down the wall to a new cooker connection box in a deep pattress box make a joint then to the cooker (if this is done does it need to be tested part p or as existing it's just a joint it's fine )or just a 30amp or 40 or 60 amp joint box ?

    Or do they do a inline cable connector like a sausage joint
     
  2. dobbslc

    dobbslc Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,492
    Location:
    Hertfordshire UK
    Just chop a deep pattresse into the wall and put a cooker switch in there if it'll fit behind the cooker. Then run a new cable to the cooker. It would obviously be better if the switch was easily accessible but it will be ok. Or you can join the cable using an unswitched cooker connection unit and run new cable to a new cooker switch above the worktop.
    I've hidden mine in a cupboard next to the cooker, probably not to the letter of the regs hiding it but it's my house not the IET's.....
    Testing, I'd say if its just replacing the choc blocks for a proper switch / connection unit you'll not need one.
     
    eLuSiVeMiTe likes this.
  3. mike os

    mike os just a little insane.....

    Messages:
    5,833
    Location:
    North Wales
    Pic would help

    Appliance needs local isolation so must have a switch reasonably accessible with the appliance in position.
     
  4. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    4,306
    Location:
    bristol england
    the main switch is on the right of the cooker the cable goes from the cooker main switch to the left out the hole and down
     
  5. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    4,306
    Location:
    bristol england
    1575479097171716031914075255523.jpg
     
  6. brightspark

    brightspark Member

    Messages:
    27,021
    Location:
    yarm
    if the cooker control unit is adjacent to the cooker to the right hand side and there is a cable from it to down behind the cooker and its heavy enough 6.omm cable all that is required is a cooker outlet connection plate with a 35mm metal box sunk in to wall . then connect a tail from that to the cooker 6.0mm flat twin and earth https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree...VVuDtCh3YTQNCEAQYAyABEgIxQPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
     
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  7. brightspark

    brightspark Member

    Messages:
    27,021
    Location:
    yarm
    hmm just noticed that outlet is higher than the top of the rings. it must be below. put a new piece of cable from the cooker control down to the new outlet conector below the worktop height
     
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  8. mtt.tr

    mtt.tr Member

    Messages:
    1,123
    Essex England
    id chase stright down from the switch to just below worktop height then run the cable behind cupboard, chase it in from the oven opening into an oven outlet

    this reduces chasing and means only a short chase to fill that is seen
     
    brightspark likes this.
  9. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    4,306
    Location:
    bristol england
    ive spoken to the my mate he dont want chasing out the plaster the quickest easy job

    so a sausage joint or as my first thought was trunk to cable exit and down to 60amp terminal box toolstation do the 60 amp bit over the top do the join and to cooker ?
     
  10. mtt.tr

    mtt.tr Member

    Messages:
    1,123
    Essex England
    Be wary about loose cable. Bigger cable doesn't take a lot to pull from terminals if badly connected.
     
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  11. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    4,306
    Location:
    bristol england
    yea will tighten down well
     
  12. dobbslc

    dobbslc Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,492
    Location:
    Hertfordshire UK
    Then wiggle and tighten down well again!
     
  13. mtt.tr

    mtt.tr Member

    Messages:
    1,123
    Essex England
    Then get really annoyed when discover the oven terminals are stupidly small
     
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  14. dobbslc

    dobbslc Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,492
    Location:
    Hertfordshire UK
    I think I had that problem with the 10mm T&E on my oven, the first switch I bought had terminals that were too tight and chewed up.
     
  15. steve_s Member

    Messages:
    356
    Location:
    UK Derby
    Joints are not good on high load stuff but like you say its your house
    burnt.jpeg
     
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  16. mtt.tr

    mtt.tr Member

    Messages:
    1,123
    Essex England
    I just use the wago type now 45a.
    Screw terminals are so last year
     
    steviec_lj and mike os like this.
  17. mike os

    mike os just a little insane.....

    Messages:
    5,833
    Location:
    North Wales
    And wont come loose
     
  18. Hog-Rider Member

    Messages:
    115
    Location:
    Henley in Arden in Warwickshire
    Just reading above and I have a question.. Next week we are having a new Electric Cooker Delivered. Now we do have a switch box on the wall and a Electric connection box down low behind the existing cooker,I was thinking of replacing the Tail with about 3 or 4 foot of new … What amp cable should I buy ??
     
  19. brightspark

    brightspark Member

    Messages:
    27,021
    Location:
    yarm
    6.0mm flat twin and earth for standard size cookers up to 15 kw
     
    mtt.tr likes this.
  20. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    4,306
    Location:
    bristol england
    [​IMG]

    got one like this with 38mm trunking the kitchen work surface is knackard around the sink an leaks so this will be a temp fix untill the kitchen is removed and changed not much point in chasing in cables and back boxes if its going to be riped out in x months time to rejig for a new kitchen and the trunking will go up the wall over top the cable exit that will protect the cable from damage and any heat
    not as good as a new chasing in but as its been like this for x years trunking and a proper joint will be a good safe upgrade for not meny pounds
     
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