Colchester chip master brake

  1. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    553
    Location:
    Northants
    Hi Guys
    Decided to tidy my chip master up a bit and change the headstock oil as I know it’s not been changed in the last 30 years!
    As the headstock is drained I thought I’d have a look at the brake and see if I can make it work as it’s never worked during our ownership.
    It looks like it might not have adjustment and just needs a new friction cone/pad.
    Has anyone ever worked on one before? Any idea if it can be adjusted?
    2A29921C-0236-40E9-8CB3-5E4CBBC79EA1.jpeg
     
  2. Bladevane

    Bladevane Member

    Messages:
    779
    Location:
    Harwell, Oxon
    I’ve got a manual somewhere. Let me go and seek.
     
  3. lostcookie New Member

    Messages:
    24
    Location:
    UK
    Looks like tightening the center nut would do it but there is nothing in my (early) handbook about it. Maybe a very late manual would help! Your machine is mid seventies to end of production going by the colour.
     
  4. Bladevane

    Bladevane Member

    Messages:
    779
    Location:
    Harwell, Oxon
    From memory it's a Matrix clutch. (Well, on mine it is).
     
  5. Bladevane

    Bladevane Member

    Messages:
    779
    Location:
    Harwell, Oxon
    I guess yours is different to mine but here's the settings plate just in case it is of any use to you.

    IMG_2316.jpg IMG_2317.jpg
     
  6. Agroshield Member

    Messages:
    1,365
    Clutch, brake, easy to confuse. Remind me never to take a drive with you :)

    I do not think the brake has any adjustment.

    Check the actuating mechanism from lever onwards for slack, wear or lost motion as a first step. I do not know how the brake cone fits its shaft on the inboard end but you might be able to remove one or more washers from there and transfer to the nylok nut side to effectively move the cone deeper into its seating. I will look in the manual and have a think.
     
    Bladevane, EddyP and eLuSiVeMiTe like this.
  7. Agroshield Member

    Messages:
    1,365
    Looking at the exploded diagram, it might be possible to space out 1090, the brake housing, from the headstock casting with shims or a double thick gasket.

    1183 looks like the rod that holds it all together, so you could play about with one or both ends of it to get the friction disk into more intimate contact with its seat.

    Possibly counterbore the brake disk slightly to move it further onto 1183 and add whatever you counterbore with a washer the other side so there is no overall length change.

    As a last resort, remake 1065, the brake disk. It is Tufnol.

    Some info. (not much) at:

    https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...hes/harrison-10aa-chipmaster-question-221668/

    http://users.tpg.com.au/pgc123/Home/chipmaster.html
     
  8. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    553
    Location:
    Northants
    Thanks Mr Argo, from the post on practical machinist it sound like it might not even be worth fixing.
     
  9. MBB Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,127
    Location:
    northumberland
    I have manual on pdf if you want me to forward it
     
  10. Bladevane

    Bladevane Member

    Messages:
    779
    Location:
    Harwell, Oxon
    That's the problem with driving automatics for years.
     
  11. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    553
    Location:
    Northants
    Thanks I’ve got the manuals too but they don’t tell you anything about the brake really.
     
  12. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    7,879
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    Take the cover off the back, it could well be like mine in that there's nothing wrong with the brake material itself but the dogs on the clutch handle have worn so they're not activating the brake properly. If you try to push the clutch handle further to the left than it naturally sits does it engage the brake?
    Chippie headstock.jpg Chippie headstock 3.jpg

    More pictures of the inwards of my headstock here if it helps.
     
  13. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    553
    Location:
    Northants
    I've never really forced the handle anti clockwise, doing so does make it brake, maybe it just needs to be pushed harder and I've never really tried it :laughing: I'll get it back together and fix it with oil and see what happens.
    Thanks guys :thumbup:
     
    Maker likes this.
  14. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    7,879
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    I'm not sure if it's supposed to take an extra push to brake or if it should do it automatically when the clutch is released but it's never bothered me so I didn't try to adjust anything.
     
    EddyP likes this.
  15. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    206
    UK Hampshire
    My Chipmaster takes a firm push to get the brake working, works well with the a 5" chuck and collet chucks, even better with a collet in the spindle but if I put on the 8" 4 jaw then it seems pretty poor, just to much stored energy in something that diameter. The VFD does a much better job of slowing the spindle with the larger chuck in place, you just need to be mindful of the loads on the toothed belt if the VFD braking is set to high, normally I just clutch out the spindle and let it coast down if I have a large rotating mass.
     
    EddyP likes this.
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