Cebora/Snapon/BOC 130 Euro torch conversion

  1. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,850
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    There have been a few questions regarding this subject lately.

    The Process is quite strait forward.

    1. Fit the Euro torch connector
      • you will need to remove the old torch. you will be left with the Main current feed wire and the switch feed wire left.
      • Mark out the position of the connector and screw holes. The wire feed neck should be in line with the current wire feed.
      • Cut out hole.the hole will need to be larger then the brass body, so there is a gap to insulate it from the case.
      • You will need to remove the cover that holds the wire liner. this will hold the end of the wire feed tube of the connector and will need to be modified so that the tube is in the correct place. this will need either cutting out or use a dremmel to remove enough plastic so that the tube fits snugly in the correct place.
      • You may need to move the wire feed assembly a little close if there is a large gap or you may endup with bad bird's-nesting of the wire if the neck id to far away. againg filing as redrilling of the holes is the answer.
      • Fit the connector's plastic housing to the front of the machine ensuring the wire freed tube is in alignment with the mechanism.
      • DO NOT fit connector yet and the electrics need to be added first.
    2. Fit the gas solenoid
      • mount the gas solenoid in a suitable place. Mine is in the wire bay on the bottom of the unit. this can go anywhere as long as you remember that the two tubes need to be routed from the gas bottle and to the torch connector.
      • if it's a 240v solenoid then you can wire this across the contactor feed. the two wires that are the feed are the two smaller wires that should be in a sheath. one is to the connector on the side if the pcb and the other to the min/max switch. I added a gas purge switched and cut the wires and reconnected with chocolate block.
      • connect the two hoses. the arrow will point towards connector and torch and indicates flow direction. the regulator feed hose connects to the input side.
    3. Add the trigger and main current wires
      • Solder or crimp the supplied ring connector to the thick current feed wire.
      • The two small wires on the euro connector are the switch feeds. the old toched used the main conductor as one side of the switch and therefore one of these wire needs connecting to the euro connector. I added a suitably sized fork connector with the legs splayed a bit.
      • The other wire comnects to the pcb in the same place as the loose wire for the trigger in the old torch. i discarded this and added a small spade connector to the eurotoch wire as there was plenty of reach. you could of course use the existing wire and connect the two.
      • The main conductor and switch wire should be added the the stem of the euro connector with the supplied nuts and these adjusted to suit the way you are mounting the connector.
    4. Final fitting and testing
      • Fit the connector to the housing and the wire feed tube should be clamped down with the old plastic clamp that has been modified earlier.
      • Fit the torch to the connector and power on.
      • pressing the trigger you should hear the contactor close and the solenoid too although this will be quieter. The wire feed motor should also turn. If you gas os connected then you should hear this coming out of the torch. if not got the regulator connected you should be able to blow down the the end.
      • Assuming all is well run the wire up the torch and start welding. you may need to adjust the positioning of the torch assy to ensure correct alignment and also make sure that there is not too much tension of the feed rollers and the end of the connector feed tube is not to far away or you will get the wite birdsnesting on you.
    Here is the modified wiring diagram for the Mod :

    [​IMG]

    Connector neck with wiring attached:
    [​IMG]

    Trigger wire on the PCB:
    [​IMG]

    Euro connector clamped up. The gap is a little to big here and it does bird's nest if there id too much tension. This is an old photo and has been ajusted since.
    [​IMG]

    side of the PCB showing the contactor feed wires:
    [​IMG]

    A view of the gas pruge wiring and chocy block:

    [​IMG]

    Should look a bit like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. rtbcomp

    rtbcomp Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,614
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    #57 is interesting. I always though the contactor switched the lower current to the primary of the transformer (before the power switches) rather than the actual welding current.
     
  3. gavuk

    gavuk artful-bodger

    Messages:
    2,951
    uk wiltshire
    Nice walkthrough Rik.....bet you wished you had a holesaw now,rather than hammer and chisel through the main case :whistle:..:laughing:...:hug:...does you welder have the same contactor as Primey's? looks industrial ....
     
  4. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,850
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    Forgot to mention. if you have a hole saw you can fix a piece of wood behind the case and drill a nice neat hole.
    I din't have a decent one at the time that would cut through steel :(

    tin snips were used to cut radial slits the the metal bent out and snipped or angle grindered off. :)
    cant usually see that bit as the connector's plastic fitments hide it :)
    tHe one primey's go looks slightly diffrent buth the wiring should be the same.
    been on to him via pm so i thought id write the article. :)

    rtbcomp: it's dodgy Italian electrics but it works. I have no idea why they do it that way.
     
  5. rtbcomp

    rtbcomp Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,614
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
  6. gavuk

    gavuk artful-bodger

    Messages:
    2,951
    uk wiltshire
    Good job and good write up...how do you find the set welds though?....been the subject of a few recent posts ?:whistle: :laughing:
     
  7. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,850
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    I've only ever welded with this set and am now quite competent. it was like a different welder when the torch was changed :)

    The Earth (-ve) clamp is wired directly to the bottom terminal of the contactor. this winds its way out through a grommeted hole on the front. I replaced the original with an old jump lead :)
    [​IMG]

    This shows one of the contactor feeds. the other is on the diagonal side. bit tricky to get to hence the chocky block:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Primey86 Member

    Messages:
    16
    UK
    Your diagram would explain why my gas solenoid valve isn't working, I've wired it to the 1/2 switch instead of the Min/Max switch LOL! managed to get the other wire right though so i guess i was almost there!

    Thanks for your efforts Rik, highly appreciated!

    Andy`
     
  9. Wozzaaah

    Wozzaaah The wizard of woz Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,091
    Wiltshire, UK
    You might have got a better hole with a tin opener. :laughing:
    Good tutorial Rik, thanks for that. :hug:
     
  10. Emmsy Member

    Messages:
    86
    Swindon, UK
    I used a 240v solenoid and wired those wires across the contactor coil feed.
     
  11. Browser Happiness is an even fillet.

    Messages:
    580
    Location:
    South Lincs, UK.
    What, apart from the ability to easily detach/swap different lengths of torch, is the advantage gained rom this conversion? I am already thinking I'll do it but want to be able to answer people which say "why are you doing it?" :D
    Have any of you done any mods to the wire feed wheels as I understand they can flex & move and cause wire feed problems?
     
  12. Wozzaaah

    Wozzaaah The wizard of woz Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,091
    Wiltshire, UK
    Nicer quality torch, easier to swap, cheaper to replace, easier liner changing for different wires, standard consumables (cebora torches use unique shrouds, not standard 'hobby' ones)....etc. ;)
    The feed rollers on ceboras aren't usually braced, that's normally only done on SIP machines.
     
  13. Browser Happiness is an even fillet.

    Messages:
    580
    Location:
    South Lincs, UK.
    Cheers Wozz, do you have any recoomendations as to where is best to go to for the conversion kit/gas solenoid/torch or is it a case of Google and some time to look?
     
  14. Wozzaaah

    Wozzaaah The wizard of woz Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,091
    Wiltshire, UK
    One of our forum members sells the complete kits on Ebay.
    You'll see them listed considerably cheaper but check the listings carefully as they don't come with a gas solenoid whereas the one I linked to is the complete kit, solenoid included. ;)
     
  15. Browser Happiness is an even fillet.

    Messages:
    580
    Location:
    South Lincs, UK.
    Murky bucker mess-sewer ;) :welder:
     
  16. hardtop Member

    Messages:
    28
    england
    i bought my kit from Les off ebay, the same as posted as above, had great service from him ;)
     
  17. Browser Happiness is an even fillet.

    Messages:
    580
    Location:
    South Lincs, UK.
    OK, am now in a position to buy a conversion kit but the one listed on the Ebay site which comes with a gas solenoid is a 4 metre one. Will this be too much for the dinky little wire feed motor in my Snap-On 130 Turbo?
     
  18. weldequip Forum Sponsor

    Messages:
    5,313
    Location:
    England
    Not a lot considering the expense, messing about & the fact you still have the same wire drive (+ the fact the machine has been discontinued); save your money & put it into something better ;)
     
  19. baldy Member

    Messages:
    253
    kent uk
    Bringing up an old thread, any idea who the fella is who sells the euro conversions for the cebora 130 migs?
     
  20. eddie49 Member

    baldy likes this.
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