Boxford AUD headstock gears setup.

  1. Tim Humphries New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Gloucestershire
    I'm no welder, but there seems to be a few Boxford users on here who can maybe help? Had my AUD 5" a while but haven't used it for the last couple of years (long story).
    Last time I used it was for a bit of thread cutting so the headstock gears were positioned accordingly. Trouble is, I didn't note the original setup. I cannot now remember the headstock gear set-up for ordinary surfacing work, nor can I find it described anywhere.
    I feel a bit of a plonker to have to ask, but I wonder if someone would be kind enough to post a pic of their setup or maybe an online reference please?
     
  2. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    8,415
    Location:
    Kent
    if it is the same as my lather the red lever on the head stock just move it to the middle position and the gears are not in use, up turns them one way and down turns them the other
     
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  3. Pete.

    Pete. Member

    Messages:
    8,559
    Location:
    Kent, UK
    There's no 'standard' feeding setup Tim, you set your feed appropriately. Feeds are generally much finer than screwcutting leads, but your gearbox should have a good range of feeds with any change gear selection.

    Look at the plate on the gearbox, it should have two numbers for each setting. The top one is TPI for scewcutting, the number below it is the longitudinal feed per revolution.
     
  4. Tim Humphries New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Gloucestershire
    Thanks. Unless I'm missing something (quite possible!) I think this is just to change the direction of the headstock spindle and leads crew (if it's engaged) - up=forward, down=reverse, neutral in middle
     
  5. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    8,415
    Location:
    Kent
    correct
     
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  6. Tim Humphries New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Gloucestershire
    Thanks Pete. The problem I discovered when I went to turn down a length of bar was that however I set the gearbox up the carriage travel was w-a-y too fast to produce anything like a decent roughing cut. This panicked me! Looking at the machine and the plate on the gearbox after a night's sleep goes some way towards explaining my problem as I think I need to arrange the gears as shown on the plate, with a 20-tooth gear in position 'g'. Still open to suggestions though. :)

    IMG_20200108_082046.jpg



    IMG_20200108_082123.jpg
     
  7. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    8,415
    Location:
    Kent
    cant you just change the speed on the gear box by moving the levers?
     
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  8. Seadog

    Seadog Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,679
    Location:
    NE London - UK
    A 20 tooth is the default gear for all of the Boxford 3656 range.

    Tacho pickup.jpg
     
  9. Spark plug

    Spark plug Member

    Messages:
    3,391
    Location:
    Durham, England
    Looks like you where cutting a course thread last and need to swap the 50t gear that’s above the 80t, for a 20t.

    Then you should be back in business :thumbup:
     
  10. Tim Humphries New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Gloucestershire
    That's true, but the speed is influenced by the other headstock gears which need to be set according to the job in hand - e.g. when cutting a screw thread you will normally, or at least frequently, want the carriage to travel faster than when you're trying to produce a fine finish on material.
     
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  11. Tim Humphries New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Gloucestershire
    Thanks all for your responses. The answer was beginning to dawn on me, but you've cleared this up very nicely before I damage myself or the machine. I'll get the spanners out!
     
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  12. Wedg1e

    Wedg1e They call me Mr. Bodge-angles

    Messages:
    6,051
    Location:
    Teesside, England
    On my VSL the 'g' gear can be either 20 or 50T as well (essentially the VSL is an AUD on steroids anyway) - so yes, sliding/ surfacing speeds are a multiple of what's stated on the gearbox if you inadvertently leave the 50T in place!
    A Metric Mk.3 AUD is a nice find :)
     
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  13. Tim Humphries New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Gloucestershire
    Thanks. If I'd taken the time to study the diagrams on the lathe and interpret them instead of panicking about what was wrong I might have got it sorted without bothering anyone. :ashamed:
    Yes, it's a nice machine. Had it around 10-12 years. The previous owner got it from a school or college where it may not have done a lot of hard work, but it's certainly missing a bit of paint in places.
     
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  14. Spark plug

    Spark plug Member

    Messages:
    3,391
    Location:
    Durham, England
    It’s always the problems that are hidden in plain sight that stump us.

    My first lathe was a Mk3 BUD really nice machine apart from that infernal spindle bore, that wouldn’t pass a inch bar.
     
  15. Tim Humphries New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Gloucestershire
    That spindle bore has caused me some frustration at times. I guess your VSL will have the 1.375" bore.
     
  16. Wedg1e

    Wedg1e They call me Mr. Bodge-angles

    Messages:
    6,051
    Location:
    Teesside, England
    Yes, the VSL has the larger bore. Still not as useful as the Colchester Student I had, but that was a rather larger machine overall.
     
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