Body filler sanding tools

  1. HopefullySoon

    HopefullySoon Member

    Messages:
    278
    Location:
    Heywood
    Good morning

    while tackling various free jobs around the MG (scraping underseal ect) ive decided to start some bodywork on the panels that dont need welding to break up the monotonous crap that needs doing but in small doses lol .

    I know im going to need a long sanding block , a small sanding block and various grades of paper .....
    what do you guys use tool wise (with more experience than me ) to get things right .

    also , could someone tell me what grades of paper to do what with .... im a half way decent spanner chucker and welder .... but bodywork is totally alien to me .

    Regards

    Malc
     
  2. gt6s Member

    Messages:
    582
    Location:
    Newtownards Co Down Northern Ireland
    Expensive electric DA.

    Paper 40 80 for rough filler. Wet and dry 120 220 400 600 or there abouts.

    Laurence
     
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  3. Ruffian Member

    Messages:
    804
    Location:
    Devon UK
    Mirka, 3m or andasa for blocks and sandING paper/ mesh.

    As for filler upol easy 1 is a universal filler,
    Fantastick is better but smaller tub and finer filler, (can be used as finishing filler)
    Topstop and dolphin glase are finishing fillers and work really well,

    As for body work,
    80-180- (possible 240) -320-primer-500-paint.

    Electric da will help, but use dust extraction if possible (filler is highly carcinogenic)

    P.'s filler dust is flamable. Dont use it in front of space heater etc.
     
  4. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,497
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    The main thing needed is patience when sanding layer after layer and best of all experience but of course the second one is always learnt the hard way!!
     
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  5. HopefullySoon

    HopefullySoon Member

    Messages:
    278
    Location:
    Heywood
    Ahhh experiance .... the thing you cant buy , and if you could you would never afford it lol . Said it about a few things in my time

    Malc
     
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  6. graffian

    graffian Seer unto the end of his beard

    Messages:
    2,406
    surrey
    Flat block and 40/60/80 to shape.
    I had painted cars/motorbikes for years and one day when I had a fat pocket the bloke in the paint
    shop persuaded me to buy a 3M block and boxes of stickit paper. The longer of the yellow
    block is probably the one. The cost of stickit paper was worth it, I knocked plod down much
    faster, and without giving it any thought you ended up with a straight panel.
    I did make some longer boards, from lamination of formica, I used to use plain paper on
    longer boards and stick the paper on with spray contact adhesive.
    I regularly used to skim entire cars and block them.
    Langy was telling me about dry paper rather than wetndry for blocking primer and he gave me
    some hookit sheets, being a cheapskate I chopped the black block out of plasterzoate and put self
    adhesive velco on it, I have selection of them. The system works well for filler and primer, I have a
    good selection of grits from 60 to 400.
    I used to knock filler down faster with the 3M block than my brother did with an air powered
    williams long bed sander[that was a waste of several hundred quid]
    Grades: You can primer over anything and block it flat. If I only had one grade for filler it would be 80. I tend to finish filler with 120, so there is less work to flat the primer. Primer I used 600 wetndry under solid colours and 800under COB; I would now use 320dry and 400dry.
    3mblock.jpg
     
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  7. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

    Messages:
    3,566
    Location:
    Aberdeen
    Sanding blocks with dust extraction is good as well.
     
  8. gaz_moose Member

    Messages:
    788
    Location:
    tamworth staffordshire
    just buy a set of vecro blocks. but buy decent paper like mirka gold etc..

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Long-Bed...148509?hash=item4674bb639d:g:Gm8AAOSwh21aX5I4

    the small round one that takes DA discs is my 'go to' block for small filler repairs.

    if your doing a big filler job then you wont get it right first skim so hit it with some real course grit, otherwise you will be fannying around for ages.

    I tend to go, 40/60/80/120 then tickle with 180 on filler. then 240/400/(800 wet) on primer. but its a black art and everyone is different.
     
  9. postie jon Member

    Messages:
    546
    Location:
    Aberdeenshire, Scotland
    on a budget ? a length of skirting board cut to a size that suits , buy a roll of 3M P40 & P80 grit and crack on .:thumbup:
     
  10. carbon

    carbon Member

    Messages:
    797
    Location:
    S. Glos. U.K
    This may not be the best advise but when I filled a large dent in a lorry door I used a 280mm permagrit block before using a sander
     
  11. keithski122 Member

    Messages:
    708
    uk
    No ones metioned this yet but getting the filler on nicely helps.For big areas use an old number plate.
     
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  12. postie jon Member

    Messages:
    546
    Location:
    Aberdeenshire, Scotland
    how large an area are u exactly intending to fill?:scared:
     
  13. keithski122 Member

    Messages:
    708
    uk
    Half a beetle roof.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Ruffian Member

    Messages:
    804
    Location:
    Devon UK
    Transit sides end to end, put on with number plate, skim down side with meter long metal ruler.
     
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