not sure how to shrink without a shrinker stretched tool.
The screws are subject to no load, only vibration. Is permanent loctite sufficient?
Loctite will be fine, if you use a high strength grade you will wring the heads off the set screws if you try to remove them without heating them first.
As an aside, I just took a Hydrovane compressor apart.
There are steel baffles in it that are just held on with tiny self-tappers into an alloy housing.
No Loctite, no nothing and if one comes loose it could trash the compressor but it doesn’t seem to be an issue.
When / if I ever put it together properly I will be tapping them for m5 screws and giving them a dab of Loctite.
Are you changing over seals out of interest? I took my compressor apart to change all the internal seals to ones compatible with r134a.
I've a similar situation with the throttle body. If you see above there is the valve plate which sits inside the shaft and is secured using those two small counter sunk screws. And the heads of those screws face towards the intake manifold side (not towards the throttle body boot!!), why would they design it like that? If they backed out they would fall into the intake manifold and could easily go into the cylinder head. Will be loctiting them for sure, they didn't seem to be loctited before as they came out with just a screwdriver and not much force.
£300!? Is it for a ship?It's a second-hand air compressor I took a chance on.
It wasn’t putting out anywhere near the air it should, so took it apart to see why.
Only one of the six vanes in the rotor was free and the oil looks like it was never changed.
I've nothing to lose so might try to see if I can fix it but a full set of seals and gaskets is almost £300
A challenge is always good for sure. One of the reasons I cracked open the ABS pump! I just got it back from the vapour blaster and he thinks I'm nuts...Hydrovane certainly know how to charge, however if their kit is maintained it does last.
Any normal, sensible person would have taken the lid off, gasped in horror, put it back on and weighed it in.
But I do like a basket case (think it part of my Italian car habit) and if I can get it back to working at even 90% I'll be a very happy bunny.
I keep buying all these machine tools so I might as well try to make use of them.
I know exactly what you mean.A challenge is always good for sure. One of the reasons I cracked open the ABS pump! I just got it back from the vapour blaster and he thinks I'm nuts...
I hope I can reuse the vanes.Will cleaning and lubing make the vanes free or are they damaged?
Dry spray is usually because you are holding the spry gun too far away.Getting this kind of sand papery effect? Thinking maybe I'm not spraying wet enough or maybe it's due to the heat?
I used 312g base, 68g hardener and 52g thinner in a 1.8 tip so that's like 12.5% I think? I was using this amount during winter too. But after seeing roughness I thought I'll keep the amount of thinners so it flows better? I had no issues what soever with roughness in winter. I did just try spraying closer and wetter and it came out better but still not perfect ...I know exactly what you mean.
I'm probably worse but in a different way (I don't pretend to have your attention to detail) instead of just sending something out to the vapour blasters I decided to make one.
Of course it isn't finished yet so is holding my refurb up.
Sometimes I think I prefer making tools to using them.
I hope I can reuse the vanes.
I got them freed up and they are worn but they are about £80 each.
Dry spray is usually because you are holding the spry gun too far away.
Did you put any thinners in it?
In cold conditions the mixed paint is thicker so you should need more thinners to get the same viscosity.
HB is geared for airless spray but up to about 10% thinner 17 will really help if using standard spray kit
Definitely spent quite a chunk. But I'm actually planning to do this as a business. Bit wild I know going in for the first time and buying all the gear planning to do it as a business... Felt I needed to do something as I'm 24 and don't fancy working in an office or spending more years in education retraining to be something I actually enjoy (I did economics...) Turns out I really like it, working on cars, like really really like it actually. and was lucky enough to have the money saved to get all the stuff pretty fast. Probably will be more focused on parts restorations than whole cars to be honest. There's a few people who do parts restoration/rebuilds etc for like GTRs and stuff and I thought well I'm sure there's a good market here for the same service but for bmws. I've actually had many requests from inside the E30 community to do work and am currently doing work for an E30 alpina c2.5. Once I've finished my E30 I'll hope to do it full time. The Japanese cars always tend to be well looked after don't they? The BMW specialist isn't BMR performance by any chance is it? I think I saw an E90 on their Facebook once.Great write up. You must have spent a fortune on gear. Must admit, if I'd realised what a big project our car resto was I'd have bought a big compressor straight away and maybe a second hand scissor lift.
I have a e90 3 series. Love the car but it has had more repairs in 8 years than our previous Japanese cars had in around 18. Would have been long gone if we hadn't found a great independent BMW specialist.