Best way to repair this?

  1. brokenbiker

    brokenbiker Member

    Messages:
    10,433
    Location:
    Llanbobyll, south wales
    IMG_20190713_132745.jpg

    So I bought a trailer cheap because it needed a bit of work...brakes don't work and needs a new bed (wood)

    Anyway, tear the brakes down and find this...

    It's an avonride 11890 hub with Knott 27k brakes...

    Best way to repair? I'm thinking plate from behind and weld it out...I've taken all the tinfoil rust away so what you see there is good solid metal
     
  2. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,577
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    I'm afraid all i see is rust
     
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  3. colnerov

    colnerov Member

    Messages:
    3,047
    Location:
    Nr Gatwick UK
    Fit new.:dontknow:
     
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  4. Lazurus

    Lazurus Member

    Messages:
    394
    Location:
    Norfolk uk
    Wot he said :clapping:
     
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  5. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask.

    Messages:
    9,702
    Location:
    UK
    A decent trailer place will have new parts or parts to convert to a new system.

    Messing around with braking systems is asking for issues.
     
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  6. merryman Member

    Messages:
    411
    Location:
    Lancaster, England
    It is only a dust cover, important bit is the double skinned part in the middle, if that is solid the rest doesn't matter. Doubt if the backplate will be available, no visible attachment bolts, and if it is welded onto the indespension units it is going to cost a fair bit to replace them.
     
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  7. brokenbiker

    brokenbiker Member

    Messages:
    10,433
    Location:
    Llanbobyll, south wales
    You got it in one...to replace id be looking at a new axle...and that's not happening...the thicker inner skin is solid...I've had a hammer and punch on it to break any rust away...it's just the dust cover and I can't find them for the life of me, or figure out a way of removing it as everything appears to be welded
     
  8. brokenbiker

    brokenbiker Member

    Messages:
    10,433
    Location:
    Llanbobyll, south wales
    What remains there has stood up to a hammer and punch...it's solid enough for a dust cover...
     
  9. rikrobson

    rikrobson Member

    Messages:
    3,577
    Location:
    Perth, Scotland
    It's not a dust cover it's a backing plate. I'd run it through an electrolysis session first but I think you are wasting you time not replacing the whoce hub/backplate
     
  10. grim_d

    grim_d Member

    Messages:
    1,578
    Location:
    Scotland - Ayrshire
    What he said, it's a backplate not just a dust cover, it plays a vital role in keeping the shoes and all the springymathings in place.

    If a shoe were to come adrift best case scenario is you push the pistons out the cylinders and lose pressure to the brakes.

    Worst case the shoes come adrift, jam the drum at speed and cause an accident. I've seen on more than one occasion when shoe material has parted ways when stationary and locked the wheel absolutely solid, no solution but to brute force the drum off to repair.

    With that gaping hole in it allowing water and Jabberwocky in the bottom half will soon follow suit.

    Not worth messing about with IMO. I'd place that backplate firmly in the unserviceable category.
     
  11. brokenbiker

    brokenbiker Member

    Messages:
    10,433
    Location:
    Llanbobyll, south wales
    so, as most seem to think welding a bit of sheet over an otherwise unsued section of backplate is daft, can anyone suggest how i take it off to replace it?

    because i cant see any way at all without destroying it...and i cant find replacements either without buying an entire axle...which is worth more than the trailer and im not writing the trailer off for the sake of a 2" hole
     
  12. brokenbiker

    brokenbiker Member

    Messages:
    10,433
    Location:
    Llanbobyll, south wales
    this is on a trailer...no pistons or hydraulics...all cable driven and if one jams the other 3 still get pulled...which i know is a theory that works as before i stripped them this one was jammed and the other side still worked
     
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  13. grim_d

    grim_d Member

    Messages:
    1,578
    Location:
    Scotland - Ayrshire
    Fair enough, disregard my comment about the hydraulics then.

    The backplate is still the component responsible for keeping other components in place and that rusty hole (which will only get bigger even if you plate it) is reasonably close to the hole for the shoe retaining pin.

    If it truly is sound then plate it up and carry on.

    Id give this mob a call, https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/191864457754

    I'm not saying that's the right one but clearly weld on avonride backplates are common.
     
  14. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask.

    Messages:
    9,702
    Location:
    UK
    Trailer place near Salisbury carry, or did , weld on back plates.

    Slitting disc to remove them, then short small tacks to weld on. To prevent distorting.


    If you so weld it, you will have to control the distortion. Or the plate will warp and then the brakes may not line up.
     
  15. cheb Member

    Messages:
    216
    Location:
    Outer Hebrides
    Is the trailer weight rating low enough just to do without brakes?
     
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  16. addjunkie

    addjunkie Member

    Messages:
    4,858
    Location:
    Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
    I did an old ifor last year, bought different make back plates and just made my own adapters. To suit the four hole back plate. Just measure your drums and buy the cheapest that fit your shoes size.

    https://www.trailertek.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brake+back+plates
     
  17. Did my Type 2 bay backplate to save buying cheap poor quality replacements. An hour in the citric acid first then jenolite or kurust (cant remember) then cut out the rot before replacing.

    Similar job I suppose?

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  18. 8ob

    8ob Member

    Messages:
    3,682
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    Just cut it off and replace with an equivalent, avonride make weld on replacements for around £120 a pair inc new shoes etc.. Even if the plate looks different as long as you match the drum diameter it will work, they all use that hook in brake cable. I would do it all on the trailer, if you are not happy doing a positional weld tip the trailer on its side.

    [​IMG]


    Rasher off most of it with a thin disc then work your way down to the weld, can all be done from the front.

    Inkedbacplate_LI.jpg
     
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  19. merryman Member

    Messages:
    411
    Location:
    Lancaster, England
    You are all missing the point, except for me and the OP. There is a difference on this set up to most, in that the brake carrier is separate from the dust cover. Yes it is welded to it but the only strength it adds is for those spring keeps that keep the shoes in place. I used to assemble truck axles, and the dust covers were bolt on and optional, some had 'em some didn't.
     
  20. gaz_moose Member

    Messages:
    908
    Location:
    tamworth staffordshire
    what size drums?
    I have a load of trailer brake stuff here I keep meaning to flog.
     
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