Hi can anyone advise what settings to set my welder to for 0.8-1mm sheet metal theres like 8 different knobs on my machine and no clear voltage control
A photo of the data plate for an Ideal 240 Super that I have found shows a minimum current of 35 Amps, which might be a bit high for 0.8mm steel. Anyway, you would choose the lowest power range by setting Coarse = 1 and Fine = 1.
The 240 Super ( not the 240N ) shows 2 Coarse and 7 Fine positions. In ascending power, these would be Coarse 1, Fine 1; Fine 2; Fine 3, etc up to Fine 7. Then Coarse 2, Fine 1; Fine 2; Fine 3, etc., for a total of 2 x 7 = 14 positions, ranging from 35 to 240 Amps.
From the top, the five control knobs are:
1. Function: Spot, Normal, Stitch. In Spot, after pressing the torch trigger the welder will run for the time set on the Welding Time ( 3rd from top ) dial, then automatically switch off. This allows a pool of weld to be used to fill a hole punched through the top of two overlapped sheets. This simulates a spot weld, and is known as a plug weld.
For normal on/off controlled by squeezing and releasing the torch trigger switch, set this control switch to the 2nd position.
The 3rd position will run an automatic sequence of on/off/on weld/pause/weld operations, after squeezing the trigger and keeping the torch moving. The pauses create gaps in the weld bead, which allows the metal to cool and avoids burn-through.
2. Wire Speed. Increasing wire speed feeds more wire to the weld pool, and also increases Amps. For thin metal, start at "2".
3. Welding Time. Sets the duration of "On" time for the Spot and Stitch functions.
4. Pause Time. Sets the time duration of pauses when running in Stitch mode.
5. Burnback Delay. If this control knob is set to a position other than zero, then when the trigger is released the arc and the gas supply will continue briefly, but the wirefeed motor will stop. This has the effect of melting the MIG wire back into the gas nozzle ( shroud ). If Burnback is not enabled, the welding arc stops immediately. Depending on any mechanical run-on, the MIG wire may stick out of the torch tip too far at the start of the next weld, and would have to be trimmed back by manual cutting. Setting a burnback delay avoids the need for this.
Its not bad where it is , from the picture , the description above tells you what everything does , you really dont need the timer function so with it turned off all you need to worry about is wire speed and power control
I would load the machine with 0.8mm wire , and keep the kinks out of the hose and give it a go , not too much gas , and all should be good , I used one of those to build a mobile stage , and found it to be grand , No its not a Fronius etc , but well up to the job , as long as the liner is in good order you will get by ,, with a bit of practice ,
That machine was the one that got swapped out for the Oxford 180 , but only after it blew up and got repaired with a generic board , it was never the same again ...
But , that machine took dogs abuse for years and never skipped a beat.
hth
very nice to meet you today tested this machine today
power to fan on turn on
gun not triggering feed motor to spin could be stiff due to non usage
faulty gun was found to be one of its problems not connecting to the machine as my gun connected to his machine and triggered the selonoid wire feed motor still not spinning
rusty roll of wire pulled to clean wire
advised to clean out motor and regrease it shown how to bypass gun to see if the motor will trigger spin without a gun on machine
wasnt able to test any further as dont have the machines pcb board diagram
pin 1/2 connect together 5 and 6 are the gun trigger power
machines pins tested and worked gun tested proven to be faulty not connecting to the machine
tl and ev are triggered when gun trigger is pulled
nice and tidy looking machine he has all dials are there clear and clean
sips are bad machines but some of the old are good little machines