Been busy welding (warning LOTS of big pictures)

  1. Justme

    Justme Member

    Messages:
    2,797
    Location:
    Pwllheli Wales
    This is what has been keeping me busy for a few days welding on a k reg Nissan Serena.

    N/S INNER SILL REAR (O/S WAS THE SAME)
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    N/S INNER SILL CENTER REAR (O/S WAS THE SAME)
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    N/S INNER SILL CENTER FRONT (O/S WAS THE SAME)
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    N/S INNER SILL FRONT (O/S WAS THE SAME)
    [​IMG]

    N/S INNER WING 1
    [​IMG]

    N/S INNER WING 2
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    N/S REAR OUT RIGGER 1 (O/S WAS WORSE)
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    N/S REAR OUT RIGGER 1 (O/S WAS WORSE)
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    O/S INNER WING 1
    [​IMG]

    O/S INNER WING 2
    [​IMG]

    Will take some picks of the outer sill that I had to make as you cant get pattern parts & the dealer wanted £600 per side plus VAT (car only worth about £7-800). Other things the car needed for the MOT were O/S lower ball joint / wishbone, 2 front metal break pipes, adjust handbreak on one side. I recon about £5-600 at a garage. Cost me £80 for wishbone £43 for 8' by 4' sheet of steel (used half of it) £5 for pipes, elec for welding welding gas & wire, grinding disks (2) cutting disks (3) Total about £150.

    Garage was well pleased with the welding & wanted me to take on all the stuff they dont do (they only do small welding jobs).

    Justme
     
  2. lexi Member

    Messages:
    1,557
    paisley
    Excellent mate........Nissans can rust. I think a lot of them had no protection
    A lot of the spares can be pricy but are good quality. Is the Serena a van type model?

    Alex
     
  3. Justme

    Justme Member

    Messages:
    2,797
    Location:
    Pwllheli Wales
    Yeh its basicly a van with 8 seats.
    Justme
     
  4. andrewg1323 Member

    Messages:
    154
    43 quid a sheet, thats bloody cheap aint it?
     
  5. Justme

    Justme Member

    Messages:
    2,797
    Location:
    Pwllheli Wales
    The sheet was only about £25 the rest was delivery & about £1 for cutting a few bits for me. It was 1mm galvanised.

    Justme
     
  6. lexi Member

    Messages:
    1,557
    paisley
    I can see why you wanted plasma cutter. That little unit I got zips through that stuff. It`s cutting the curved sections that`s brill .
    Alex
     
  7. Drains

    Drains Yeah, nah.

    Messages:
    7,715
    Location:
    Sefton, South Island, NZ
    Hey Alex. Is your new plasma cutter doing the business? How are you finding consumable life? Took me a while to get the hang of not blowing the tips away. I've got it now, spent yesterday slicing 8mm plate and hardly wore one tip, but it's been a struggle up till now.
    Si
     
  8. lexi Member

    Messages:
    1,557
    paisley
    I`ve only been cutting 1 and 2mm. What was your secret on the thicker stuff
    Distance and angle?

    Alex
     
  9. malcolm

    malcolm Hej!

    Messages:
    8,827
    Location:
    Bedford UK
    Are the plasma cutters any good for cutting out bodywork - how much clearance do you tend to need behind the cut?
     
  10. Drains

    Drains Yeah, nah.

    Messages:
    7,715
    Location:
    Sefton, South Island, NZ
    Hey Alex. My secret plasma techniques... erm. You know when you first do something, it's rubbish, and you keep doing it and it get's better but you don't know why, well, that's my secret.

    And, don't let the tip touch the steel - if you can, fit a distance piece. I made one with a jubilee clip and some weld rod, then was ferreting around the welding consumable shelves in my local build centre (ironmongery), who are getting rid of their weld stock, and came across the real Macoy - see pic.

    Also, only ever 90 degrees, this ain't oxy acetylene!

    Good earthing. I made the stupid mistake of discovering I could cut thin stuff with no earth, on the primary arc. Took me a while to realise that that was not the way to continue with any success.

    Never hold the pilot arc on. It just burns away the tip super quick.

    Keep a wire brush handy, and some tip dip to keep the tips clean.

    Start on an edge, or drill a start hole if you can, rather than piercing. If you have to pierce, pierce at an angle till you're through, then perpendicular.

    Don't travel too fast. I'm not sure about travel speed. I'm still getting plenty of dross on the back of most cuts and havn't worked out a way around that yet.

    Use a guide. Theres no weight in the gun, not like an oxy acet torch, and my hand just isn't steady enough for accurate cutting. Freehand is good on non-regular shapes:- a pal got me to cut out some rabbits(!) from 3mm sheet the other day (for air rifle targets), and they came out a treat.

    That's about it. Now you know what I know!
    Now maybe you can help me...How do I re-tar a pitched roof?


    Malcolm. re bodywork. I reckon a plasma would be fantastic for bodywork, and very little clearance behind would be needed, say 10-15mm would keep the backing safe, if it was 20g or so. Lots of heat though. And of course depends on the power of the machine. But loads easier than discs or snips. Just mark your line and cut away.
     
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  11. Justme

    Justme Member

    Messages:
    2,797
    Location:
    Pwllheli Wales
    So i guess its not a scratch start with that adapter to keep the tip of the work?

    justme
     
  12. Drains

    Drains Yeah, nah.

    Messages:
    7,715
    Location:
    Sefton, South Island, NZ
    Indeed, if it were, I would be stymied. Although it is easy enough to bounce the tip down with that thing on there. Easy enough to make a springy thingy that would cover both bases.
    Si
     
  13. lexi Member

    Messages:
    1,557
    paisley
    Yeah Hf start. That`s all good Simon. Pm me for any info on roof. I don`t mind giving advice it costs nowt.


    Alex
     
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