1989 316i M52 Restoration - VERY pic heavy!

  1. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    I thought it was finally time to start a proper build thread for my E30. It’s a rusty 316i that I was building it into a M50 turbo weapon, but I had Gunni at GSTuning build me a manifold for the car, which turned into an absolute disaster. After a year of legal paperwork I took Gunni to small claims court where I won and have a county court judgment order against him.

    So after a lot of time and my money wasted I decided to just M52 the car and later on decide if I want more power.

    Onto the car! It’s a bog standard 1989 E30 316i in Schwarz. I bought it and didn’t realise that there was a lot of hidden rust. So rather than this being a simple engine swap, its turned into a bit of a restoration.

    The turd:

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    It had all the usual rust that an E30 always has, but this E30 had really been neglected and the rust had spread.

    Bung had fallen out at some point:

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    Cut out and welded:
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    Primed and seam sealed:
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    Jacking point rust:
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    Cut out:
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    Welded and primed:

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    Firewall rust:
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    New sheet metal positioned:
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    Rear:
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    Tacked in:
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    Fully welded and welds smoothed:
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    Other end:
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    Welded:

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    Panel spot welded back in:
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  2. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    Warning! The next area of rust is really bad! All the skins were knackered

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    Panel removed:
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    Access hole cut:
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    Repair:

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    Scuttle rust repaired:
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    Everything painted in 2k epoxy primer:
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    Sandblasted:
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    Epoxy primer:
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    Welded in:
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    All oem skins rebuilt.

    Support bracket welded back in, will get ground, sandblasted and epoxy primered eventually:

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    Rusty wiper hole:

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    Since the car is RHD, theres no point trying to recreate the raised wiper hole as it is just blanked off anyway.

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  3. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    While the car was under Gunnis/DI Racings possession, there was multiple damages caused to the car of which one was where some half-wit attempted to remove (molest) a spot welded bracket with a cutting disc:

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    This was cut out and new metal was welded in:

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    Another rusty bit was the panel behind where the battery sits. This was replaced with a flat piece of sheet metal:

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    All the bits have just been sprayed with some zinc primer to stop the bare metal/welds from rusting. It will get sandblasted and epoxy primered at a later stage.

    I bought another front section from cleveland panels:

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    It is of fairly good quality, but a bit rough. Rather then chop mine out and replace it with this taiwanese metal, potentially risking misfitment of the headlights, I just chopped out bits from it and used them to patch mine:

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    The next rusty bit was the part at the bottom:

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    Chopped out:

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    Replaced:

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    Next bit was to sort out the bottom of the wheel arches. I sandblasted the areas, and burnt off all the seam sealer to reveal what needed to be replaced:

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    I started with the vertical parts. I will fix these, then move onto the base.

    Rust cut out:

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    I welded in some scrap to act as supports as the panels go all floppy when separated from each other:

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    Welded in some new metal:
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    Bit of primer to stop any rust:

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    Next is so sort the base out.

    Firstly the rusty base was cut out:

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    Repair section fabricated:

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    Holes for spot welds drilled and weld-through primer applied:

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    Tacked in:

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    Fully welded:

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    Skins pulled nice and tight:

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    All ground down:

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    Nice undetectable repair :)

    There was a bit of rust on the front section. This area is not seen, so rather then rebuilding both the skins, I just formed a ridge in a bit of steel and welded that in to give the impression of 2 overlapping sheets:

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    I had cut an access hole to repair all the skins behind the fusebox. So was time to seal it up. It was epoxy primed and then loaded with seam sealer:

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    Started the jigsaw puzzle:

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    All bits tacked in. Lots of bridging to do which is hard with a MIG on sheet metal:

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    Lots of grinding to do!!!

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    Next I wanted to get the front of the car all sorted and primed so that was out of the way. So first came the tedious and messy job of media blasting it. All in bare metal:

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    This of course revealed some rust holes which were patched up.

    Masked up, I didn't mask for overspray as the rest of the car will be getting painted anyway:

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    Shot 2 thick coats of epoxy primer:

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    Wanted to seam seal the front as it was before the 24 hour overcoat window the epoxy has. I used a 1k polyurethane seam sealer from a chaulking gun, not the rubbish rubber crap that comes out of the tin. I applied it and used a small brush to spread it about deep in the seams and onto the surrounding areas.

    For the top I used tape just do see what it would look like:

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    All seam sealed:

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    Very neat using tape line:

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    Once I finish repairing the rest of the engine bay, I will key the epoxy, probably shoot another coat of epoxy and then go wet on wet with the 2k top coat.

    Started grinding the jigsaw puzzle of weld down. Theres no point in getting it flush as this part is not visible.

    All ground down and everything keyed with P180:

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    Masked up:

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    Sprayed on like 5 wet coats of epoxy as I mixed up a bit too much:

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    Will wait for it to dry and seam seal the welds up.
     
  4. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    Next rusty bit was cut out:

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    All new metal cut, welded in and skins pulled nice and tight:

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    Next the whole area and underneath was sandblasted:

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    Everybody looking to do any sort of complex rust removal needs a sand blaster! Its very quick and easy to remove rust and paint, especially in complex areas where a wire brush won't fit. It also keys the metal so no need for any more prep! Only downside is that it goes absolutely everywhere!

    Next the rest of the paint was keyed with some P180:

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    Masked:

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    3-4 coats of epoxy primer:

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    All the other repairs I previously just sprayed on some zinc primer to stop them from flash rusting. Next stage and to blast and clean the repaired areas and shoot some epoxy. Once the engine has been fitted and everything it needs is fabricated, the engine will be pulled and the engine engine bay scuffed with a green scuff pad, then another coat of epoxy will be shot. I will then go wet-on-wet with the topcoat.

    The left front side of the engine bay was repaired before and I just shot some cheap rattle can primer on it to stop it from flash rusting. So now was time to properly seal the metal up.

    All the areas were sandblasted:

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    So that area is now completely rust free and mint. Good thing about sandblasting is that it exposes the thin weak metal or weak weld areas, where it will blow a hole through it. Therefore you know that area needs attention. Another good thing is that you can use it to clean up and sort of 'key' the underseal/seam sealer so the new paint can stick.

    Will epoxy it up tomorrow.
     
  5. Cris B

    Cris B Every day welding is a school day

    Messages:
    450
    Location:
    Sefton
    Wow, a lot of work has gone into this. Proper job!
     
  6. robdxr2

    robdxr2 Member

    Messages:
    145
    cheshire
    hats off to you I think a lot of people may have thrown in the towel by now
     
  7. marlinspike Member

    Messages:
    1,233
    United Kingdom
    Wow. Hugely impressive work. I didn't realise epoxy only had a 24hr limit for seam sealing.
     
  8. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    It has an overcoating period of 24 hours or something. So I thought it would be best to seam seal within 24 hours. Next time I'm going to scuff the paint and seam seal ontop of that.
     
  9. robdxr2

    robdxr2 Member

    Messages:
    145
    cheshire
    what it means when it has an overcoat time of 24h is that you can put another coat on without having to key the paint (scotch pad/fine sanding disk). Some people say you can't leave base coat overnight and then clear coat it the next day but I know of people that do and they say they have no trouble but I like to get it on as soon as.
     
  10. Neilios Member

    Messages:
    141
    North East
    Pictures gone mate, would be interested in seeing them.
     
  11. Bandwidth exceeded I think! For anyone who missed the pics I can assure you the workmanship looks awesome. I saw this car on driftworks a couple of days ago. Can't wait to see the result!
     
  12. Neilios Member

    Messages:
    141
    North East
    Ah, I have seen that build, agree about the dedication and quality of work.
     
  13. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    Brushed on epoxy primer on bare metal areas:

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    Arch was sanded, degreased and masked:

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    Sprayed with epoxy:

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    Next bit to sort was this area:

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    Media blasted:

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    Everything that was blasted was keyed, then all was degreased and masked:

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    Engine bay all rust free :)

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  14. robdxr2

    robdxr2 Member

    Messages:
    145
    cheshire
    top work :clapping: is the rest of the car as bad?
     
  15. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    Thanks!

    Rest of the car is in good shape, I assume the engine bay has lots of nooks and crannies that the water sat in for ages and caused the rust.

    Only other problem areas on the car are the rear arches and rear valance. Underside is very clean! Good old BMW underseal :)
     
  16. andeep Member

    Messages:
    237
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    Some slow progress:

    Need to get the engine in and running so that I can fab/weld any brackets that it may need and weld up any unused holes in the engine bay. Once its all running, it will pull it out so I can finish off the restoration work on the rest of the car and finally get everything painted.

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    New Nissens 328i air-con spec rad:

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    Started connecting the interior loom:

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    Fusebox mounted:

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    Inlet and loom removed:

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    All wired up (fingers crossed!):

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    Also welded up the throttle body heater hose on the metal coolant line:

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    Cleaned it up and keyed. Will spray a few coats of epoxy and 2k black:

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    ECU has been sent off to be remapped for the M50 inlet and manifolds sent off to be modified
     
  17. Neilios Member

    Messages:
    141
    North East
    Looking good, your a few steps ahead of me, just stripping my e36 [​IMG]
     
  18. Coo

    Coo Member

    Messages:
    751
    Fife
    Great work thanks for sharing
     
  19. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    1,062
    USA-NY
    Im in awe of the dedication to detail on this "turd" as you put it...it no longer can be called that!....

    keep up the great work and keep posting those pics..they are inspiring!....Ill be getting my E36 trailer done soon and am glad I took the time to do all that restoration that I ended up doing unexpectedly, just like your project..though not nearly as involved. (not even close!)....

    ;)


    waiting for more progress!

    JP
     
  20. SpaceDawg Member

    Messages:
    42
    west sussex
    Amazing!!!!

    Do you have a day job? This would be full time for me :-)
     
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