Not structural, something for an art project, looks like a rectangular picture frame where the rods will overlap in the corners and the rods must stay straight.
I have a job to do that involves building a frame from 2.4mm stainless TIG rods, I've never done either before but I'm thinking silver solder or brazing would be the best method?
Any advice regarding materials and technique appreciated.
I've got one of these to sell but cant find any others for sale to compare values, anybody know what they're worth?
It's a 200a DC only TIG welder with pulse and synergic settings. Comes with Parweld 26 torch, earth and gas connections, and a manual. tested today and is in full working order.
Just a quick update on this, I booked Steve at Landylift and he moved the lathe today, everything went smoothly and the lathe is in its new home, cannot recommend him highly enough.
I borrowed a cup full of Evaporust off a friend and after a good soak the rust has gone but there is still a mark there where the corrosion has eaten into the surface, nothing will get rid of that, but they still wring together so I'd call that success. Going to order my own now and do them all.
This is why I was thinking chemical rather than mechanical, I can see a couple may have to be sacrificed in the name of Science! I'll try Evaporust first. I'll report back when its done.
I was recently given a nice set of inspection grade Coventry gauge blocks, but they've been stored somewhere damp and they have small rust spots on them. Anyone got any tips on how to clean them up?
Anybody else had problems with the Viking 3350? I'm on my 2nd now and it's just packed in with the exact same problem as the first. Going to be getting money back this time I think.
I was saving up for a Speedglas, but after reading this thread I started looking at the Lincoln Viking. I ended up getting the 3350 direct from Lincoln Welding Supplies in Sheffield, who offered me a great deal. Dead pleased with it, it's heavier than my old mask, but really comfortable and the...