If your going to fabricate, try some thinner wall box.
You could paint the frame, then go for galv. sheet and pop rivits; would look industrial, but professional.
I fancy making cabinets using these for the drawers.
I guess your after a complete solution:
http://www.primrose.co.uk/underwater-led-water-feature-lights-p-738.html
These people seem to specialise:
http://www.water-garden.co.uk/lighting.php
I voted Other, but could have been Machine operator/machinist crossed with Mantenance engineer.
It's toolmaking Jim, but not as we know it: Tig welded ali fabrications used in 'Dip Moulding'; producing flexible PVC mouldings. Mig together steel framework/machinery; support for maintenance nnd...
Something to watch for is if it's brazed to the reciever than getting it hot-enough to repair (braze) may cause the OE fixing to come appart, and the tube come away from the reciever completely.
So couldn't the thin-metal technique be used to mig it up (after cleaning properly)?
Looks ripe for recreating from more substancial materials, with some fail-safe measures built in.
Where could you put stands that would do any good at that height?! :o
My understanding of insurace, is that if more than one policy covers a specific item, the insurance companies like to split up the liability, so they each only pay part towards the sum insured.:dontknow:
If you got some tube, you would then have something to play around with.
Maybe with the 1.5mm thick ERW clicky you could make some sort of mangle, with a radiused die that can support the round proportion of the tube, but on the opposite side have a flat die that can be adjusted in; a pass...
If you stick to steel it will probably be the easiest to work with and join.
Have you looked on the Parkers Steel website? clicky. Get an idea of what is available then call to get some prices.
The CHS (circular hollow section) linked to may be pricy, but their ERW (electric resistance welded)...
The click is normal.. i think it's the power going to the main transformer.
So, when you pull the trigger you get no feed? ..so how did you manage a weld?
Or is it an intermitant fault?
Yeah, we get 4043 (or 4047 i can't remember which).
I think with a fillet weld the idea is to get a fair amount of filler in there so that the bead isn't concave, with no crater at the end. This will be less likely to crack. In this case, easier to do with a larger rod.
Looking at you're...