The only way to check for face fusion in this case is ultrasonic or radiography. Ultrasonic shear wave inspection would be a nightmare on 3-4mm material. Best bet is radiography, but it'll cost a fortune.
You are much better off doing sample destructive testing like runnach suggests, if you...
A tip for you, if you want it, is to apply the dye with a brush rather than spraying it, it will help you stop getting it everywhere. It is really very annoying stuff to get off. A more localised application is quite handy.
EDIT: Should refresh before posting. Didn't mean to step on your toes...
Aye, I'll be getting the eyes waterjetted out of 25mm plate and they will pass through boxes let into the bumper and welded at both faces. Much easier to fit with the top off the bumper. The towpoints will be bolted direct to the chassis rails though, not to the bumper.
I'll be welding...
I'll be starting on a new set of bumpers for my Landcruiser soon and I'm in two minds as to whether to use rectangular structural box or flat stock welded up into a box.
My rationale for each option:
Prefabbed box:
-Easier, much less welding involved.
-Known quality of the box section...
Sparky came round this morning, we're going to put a new ring main into the garage at 32A (I'll have to buy some proper grown up tools now :D )
Thanks again for all the info chaps, I hate to walk into a conversation with absolutely no knowledge whatsoever.
Thanks very much chaps, So I need a Type C or D MCB?
When I said 'Consumer electrics idiot' I wasn't joking, by the way.
Here's the current situation.
I know that's the RCD at the top (mainly because it says RCD on it), the MCBs are the little switches inside. So I'll need a new one...
Thanks Joe, it was more a component question following Dean's comments here: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=8462&highlight=16amp
All this MCB RCD Type A, B and S business is my main area of confusion :ashamed:
I've got a Portamig 185 on order and, in preparation, I'm getting a sparky out to give me garage power tomorrow (long overdue really).
I was going to ask him to fit one 16 Amp plug and a few 13 Amp but a bit of reading around here seems to suggest that 16A may be a little low under certain...
Go and get it back. It will at least gee the guy up on his responsibilities.
This sort of behaviour is really infuriating, you let folk take the main V5 so they can be sure it's sent off and they do nothing.
Have you thought about buying a liquid penetrant testing kit? at the thickness you are working with, most porosity will have a surface breaking element and it would enable you to find the problem areas of weld more accurately, save you having to grind the whole weld out.
A good welding shop...
Thanks for the advice chaps. I was going to use some old door trim but the bar seems a neater and better engineered solution. It's not an immediate problem but in the planning now.
Wonder what the MoT tester would make of those teeth Chunko :clapping: