Really? Less than 1Ohm? That's getting down to laboratory spec. Do you mean to test for poor earth connections and the like? You will need a good quality multimeter for consistent readings, I wonder if a cheapy from Maplin will do? Fluke 233A or similar from AVO (which I own) might be better...
I've no experience of using that particular kit, but I reckon you would probably manage to get a 'shop soiled' 160A R-Tech for that price. I know which I'd prefer
Jesus, I sincerely hope not. This sort of tosh is ammunition for those who would have us in the U.K. end up like France / Belgium and the like, where I've been told it's almost impossible to modify cars in any shape or form. Even braided brake hoses are an MOT fail, apparently.
Those pics...
Hmmm....First post, no introduction, no 'Hello' or anything from the OP. Lacks the ability to attach two photographs to the post. Hasn't been back since.
Sounds to me like Woz is spot on:
Fantastic little set, well suited to commercial / industrial use.
Another nice piece of kit, although probably better suited to situations where your livelihood doesn't depend on it.
I own and use both regularly. The difference in weld quality is marginal, at best. The Caddy is 'nicer' to...
I was browsing round for some info on titanium BMX frames, and came across this http://moots.com/our-craft/welding/overview/#5 American manufacturer, the quality of welds on the frames makes me want to hang up my helmet for good!
Damn good effort, mate!
I like the bike, can just imagine Toby and Jules off Eurosport going "Ooohh, and he's locked up the front end and flatspotted it big time" Going back a few years, ah admit lol!
MIG or TIG?
Yep, AC tig plant is expensive.
Yes, there are lots of lightweight metals you could use. Magnesium, titanium and inconel are all lightweight and strong, along with other properties.
What kind of frames are you practicing with, and what kind of 'iron' do you mean?
Yeah, should be so long as I can still source the replacements or their equivalents. So long as there's nothing wrong with the rest of the welder itself which caused the PCB to blow?
Can't help you there, I'm afraid. Where did you get the last one from, SIP? As a last resort, stick the PCB in a jiffy bag and I'll PM you my address. I'm in Glasgow.
Yep. the A stands (or used to) for linear taper. If it were a log taper it would have a C instead. But I think that may have changed at some point, no matter as log pots are most often found on audio kit, as that's how our ears work.
That takes me back to my college days...