I think the problem is that data can be erased and then rewritten to the ECU. They could probably stop that by using crytographic keys to sign the milage. Then nobody could fake it.
The built in unit that's being replaced in the car is Sony, so that brand is not top of the list.
We put a pioneer double din unit in my dads nissan a few years ago and that still performs well so might get another pioneer.
Basically want android auto and a nice capacitive touch screen.
I'm going to do this on our fiesta in the new year.
Going to use a decent brand such as pioneer, kenwood or Sony.
Dynamic sounds seem to be a reputable supplier of full kits.
The older enders are cheap but have known limitations.
You can't print above 245 degrees because it's not got a full metal hotend.
You can't really print soft plastics like TPU as its a Bowden design.
That's why I recommend going for one of the newer higher spec models. They are soo cheap now.
I recommend onshape for designing parts. It's online and free, full featured too. If you can run a Web browser you can run it.
Only catch is the free version puts your designs in the public domain.
Start off with PLA, when you need a functional part look at PETG.
Both about £20 a 1kg roll.
If getting an ender printer, I would recommend going for a version that has the direct drive extruder. It's only a matter of time before you end up replacing them for a full metal hotend anyway.
You can upgrade them with microswiss or e3d but that works out more expensive.
I had this dilemma a few years ago. Buy or build.
There's a few shed builders local to me that do really nice sheds, the kind you could kit out for an office.
Anyway, I went DIY and get the plan from https://www.diysheds.co.uk/
Custom designed to fit perfectly in the gap I had.
Think it was peak...
I baught a clarke SE18C200 years ago when they eere cheaper.
Its a cast iron pump, 3kw single phase motor and 200 litre tank.
Belt driven, standing on rubber feet. Supposed yo be 18cfm.
It runs all the air tools ive used on it. Runs a very small blast cabinet in short bursts and I painted a...
If I had a modified classic, Id just exploit the historic status and not bother with MOT and tax.
Its pretty silly really. I have a Q plated car. Its a kitcar and has lots of modifications. Nothing to stop me modifying it even further, not like any of the differences are recorded so you could...
I was watching the juicebox4u videos n youtube. They were doing the arches on a ae86. Rolling the arches can cause them to rot out faster due to making gaps between spot welds and sealant.
They cut the arches out and fabricated bigger ones. Irish weather is murder on cars.
I think parweld gets generally good reviews on here. I was going to buy the 181c before I got my tecarc.
They are made in asia but have good support in the UK.
Yeah, but thats why i recomended euro torch. The torch is a comodity, it will get either broken or burnt out eventually. I couldnt be messing about retrofitting later on when i want to finish the car.
My 2cents,
Get a machine with a euro torch, takes 15kg spools and is from a decent brand.
15kg wire spool will last you ages and is more economical than buying 5kg spools.
Go for rent free argon mix bottle hire, way cheaper than disposables.
When you are worrying about welding on a classic...
Also, aflatek doesnt exist at the address on the website, not unless its operating from the basement of a londis.
The company is registered as a mail order firm on compnies house too.
:flame:
Ive used TE superseal connectors.
Upto 6pin terminals are widely available, think they go higher pin count. 15amps I think.
There is also econoseal, higher pin count but less waterproof.
Important to use genuine parts though with a quality crimping tool.
Cheap stuff on aliexpress, amazon...