Yes, try bending it. They don't dismantle very easily...
When these bourdon gauges take a hit, I would doubt that their accuracy remains the same. Worth trying it anyway.
The chassis was made into a welding cart last month.
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/show-us-your-welding-cart-trolley.54651/page-20#post-2045565
Last post on this thread, then.
I'll be hoarding the AW2 spares for years I expect, so if anyone needs a circuit board, transformer...
Look at the PCB and see if it actually has a relay.
But I wouldn't bother to repair that machine, unless 'for fun' - it's junk, two voltages, and is probably AC.
"Well this no beauty queen, keeps me sane (sort of, as I have some autistic traits in my brain)".
That's good to hear.
Bumps the figure up to c. 97.356 % of members here probably nudging the spectrum..
When your new 3m or 4m liner arrives, you will probably have to cut it to the correct length.
The remainder can be use to replace the guide section, although it's not really a factor in good wire feed quality - all it's doing is helping load in new wire.
(Or use some of the old liner).
Yep, transformers rarely fail and when they do, replacement is not usually economically viable.
The most common reasons for the wire feed motor not to work are:
1. A PCB fault.
2. A rectifier fault.
3. A faulty torch trigger - switch or the wires.
Divide up the machine's Amperage range equally by 6 for the 6 voltage settings (maybe it's 30 A to 190A?)
Use a rule of thumb 35 Amps per mm of material thickness to select the appropriate voltage.
Set the wire feed in the middle and adjust to suit, aim for the 'bacon frying' sound.
Set the gas...
Welcome. Your 105EN machine is well up to the job.
Fit a curtain wire liner and a new swan neck liner, all for under a tenner.
The tensioner should not need to be wound more than half way. If it needs to be fully wound down then that points to a finite feed problem (I've fixed about 20 of...