I don't focus on the puddle/tungsten relationship, instead I look at where I want the filler rod to go. I find if I look at where the electrode is in relation to the puddle then I almost always stick the tungsten into the puddle.
Trying straightened mig wire may help as well as it'll be thinner...
I've tried a couple of types, 2% thoriated (still the best for steels in my opinion, 2% lanthanated is a good allrounder, Huntingdon multistrikes are also very good but a bit spendy really and CK Layzr. The Layzr is in my opinion better than the Lanthanated. It forms and holds a nicer "ball" for...
Try and get hold of a big chunk of aluminium to place the work piece onto. I made my own fixture plate so I can clamp parts down, it's 25mm thick and acts as a giant heat sink and helps with thin stuff like you wouldn't believe. You may be able to get a decent sized bit for cheap at a local...
Most stainless exhaust makers tend to mig their parts from what I've seen over the years. Small businesses tend to tig them. Tomei don't use filler on their titanium exhausts and they crack all the time as they don't seem to fully penetrate the joints even though wall thickness is around 1mm...
I got a new Rtech 210 a month or so ago so decided it was time to start learning on aluminium. I'm not really doing much other than trying to get my filler hand feeding rod quicker as it's all new to me. It's not the prettiest granted but I just wanted to pad beads out to get into a bit of a...
I've got both the A50 and a 9100xxi. Both great hoods in my opinion though obviously you get what you pay for and in that respect the 9100xxi is a better helmet in the respect that it's so much clearer for low amp tig.
That's just my perspective though and I'd say a prospective buyer needs to...
I had the same issue with the Rtech dense adaptor. needs a tiny amount taking off the locating lug then it'll lock. And I found that having a more comfortable CK torch did actually help me produce better looking beads as I could hold it more comfortably.
cheeRS
Tom
A good welding helmet will more likely make more of a difference than having a glass cup mate. If you don't already have a good mask, try and get a go in one and you'll see that the difference can be night and day. I started off with a cheap nasty one and couldn't see worth a damn, changed to an...
My 2 pence worth, go and get decent consumables. CK stuff is about all I use.
Tungsten, I use Thoriated (red tipped) as I only do DC but by all accounts 2% Lanthinated (blue tipped) is very good as an all around electrode.
Cups, again CK worldwide and no 7 in size should see you right for the...
I'm using 1mm filler and 1.6mm electrode with a no7 cup and stubby gas lens. thanks for the tip about the backing bar.
@Richard. I'm doing some exhaust bits for my RS Turbo and basically want to make sure it's as strong as it can be. I don't want to do it all again down the line and as the...
Ok but if I hadn’t used aluminium it would definitely sugar up on the back side.
So basically I need more amps with less travel speed? But then as it heat soaks I’ll need to get a move on right?
cheers
Tom.
I’m only on a switch so set the amperage and that’s that. Annoying but can’t justify the cost of a pedal just yet.
figured the start was cold as like you say the bead profile isn’t great. I’ll be honest I didn’t even think to do more than an acetone wipe so that was daft. Second but was nail...
First one is a closed butt joint. Second picture is a fillet at 50 amps and the third one was around 54 I think. Can’t quite remember. The weld you’re looking at in the third picture is the lowest one. The second picture was where I had some issues tying the plates in.
Thanks
Tom.
As I was at the dregs of the bottle I decided to do some practice beads. I’d already welded these bit together in a previous practice session so just rearranged the bits to make new joints. I’ll cut them out at some stage to reuse.
anyway, I’m running the recommended amps from the tutorial and...