How do you know to drain it? That would be a long way down my list of possibilities. Check if the plug is fouled and if there is a spark for a start. Next check fuel pump is working. Then check fuel filters, that is when you may get a sniff of diesel. Unless it has well over 50% red diesel in...
So how would you have been able to tell? I get this regularly with quads as farmers don't always know what is in the can they are filling the quad from. Usually it is the smell, but that is masked, depending on the ratio of petrol to diesel. I once found it by spilling some "fuel" on my shirt...
My father had an FD Victor with that engine, it was very good, ate clutches though, don't know why. Stick with it unless it really is toast. With a bonnet the length of the Lima's I would have thought just about anything would fit, but modern engines have modern ECU controls, so are rarely used...
I don't work on cars these days, but mend EFI quads, and they won't fire up until the fuel pump and ICAV have stopped whiring and clanking, it takes about 4 secs. Try before all has gone quiet and they won't start as a rule, try again and they do.
It now has a nut on it so it doesn't matter. In cases where bolts are going to be covered in wet dirt I always grease them before assembly. Doesn't always work but it does help.
Don't know how they do it, but we sell sealed for life motorcycle batteries and, once sealed up, they don't leak. Had to fit one to a TGB Blade Quad and couldn't weigh up how to get it in the battery box, finally checked the instructions and found it should be laid on it's side in use.
Only if you put the blade in backwards, the blades on power hacksaws work the opposite way to hand hacksaws. I have been tempted to turn one round, as only the first 3" of blade gets used unless you regularly cut RSJs or something like that. However hacksaw blades seem to last forever, compared...
Looks far more like that fake, plastic "wicker" that was used in the 1970s. Stronger than the real stuff but, once broken, it unravels just like that shown in the picture.
To actually reply to OPs request, it looks very Fobco to me, same method of belt adjustment as my Star, that screw for a depth stop and the single handle for winding the chuck down. If it is Fobco it has had a few modifications.
Enthusiasts for flue liners seem to think that burning logs is an exact science. It isn't, on a windy day you may get far more draw, wind direction and where your chimney is in relation to other higher buildings and trees, makes a big difference on chimney draw, I would guess at far more...
Fireplaces were used for over 500 years without flue liners, for the first 300 years would be burning wood, and I doubt if they sent the boys up the chimney every 8 weeks. So why would you suddenly need a liner and to sweep it every 8 weeks? I made my woodburner and simply stuck the pipe from...
I seem to remember setting it "light" it would then usually slip, so tightened it a bit until it didn't. Bit of a nuisance for one offs, but I was mostly doing several holes so, once set, you could run through the rest without problems.
Not used my tap holder for years but I think the collets have squares to match those on the taps. Fairly sure it was made by a "big name" like Alfred Herbert so expect collets will still be available.
If the old battery is missing or numbers gone, the physical size, voltage and which way round the terminal posts need to be will tell the supplier what to give you. Capacities can vary for the same size battery, you need as big as possible for a diesel. Stand by stuff is better with exotic...
A leaking rear wheel cylinder would have been an MOT fail. So the garage is either lax with their MOT passes, or is telling porkys about the leak. Do go for a second opinion.
A local farmer bought a new ATV trailer for carting sheep etc, about. New design with what looked like road tyres, as he wanted to do road work between his two farms (5miles apart). Only had it a few weeks and one axle sheared. On checking he found the tyres were still supposed to be blown up to...
I have written this on several posts but it never seems to sink in. Cast iron flows like water into the mould. If you want added strength, go for spheroidal graphite or "maleable cast" both of which are heat treatments of CI. Cast steel flows like treacle, so you can't use it for anything...
Rubbish.
I welded an exhaust manifold by first putting in the barbeque until red hot, then mig welded it and put it back in the barbeque and let it cool overnight. Worked great.
I worked in a foundry for a while and cylinder blocks sometimes had faults that could be welded, so they had an oven...
In the US they get a lot of snow, and a Quad with a snowplough blade on the front seems to be the weapon of choice for rural dwellers. Used 4WD quads are not that expensive, (even at the moment, when you can't buy new ones,) and a lot easier to set up than making a tracked vehicle from scratch.