I shortened the arm to the brake shoe a little bit (about 3 cm), curved the shoe a little more to make it grip the tyre better, and also made a better wire clamp. That did the trick, and it is now braking just fine.
Update, brakes added
Unfortunately the wheels would need serious modification if I were to add proper brakes, so I decided to make brakes that operates directly on the tires.
It doesn't look too bad, but unfortunately the brakes were a bit ineffective, so I will need to redesign some. I...
Thanks for your comments!
I do agree about the seat, but I am planning to add safety belts that will be attached to the frame, so I don't really think the seat will break. But in any case, it should be easy to modify the seat carrier to allow mounting a different seat if I should find one...
I'm currently working on a downhill kart for the kids. Thought I'd share the progress. When I first made the chassis, I soon realized it was waaaaay too big:
I had to make it narrower:
Front:
Back:
My plan was to keep the steering bits in front of the front axle to keep it...
Thanks for your help. I'll see if I can find a place that sells such a "peashooter", but if not I'll just keep the flow a bit above the level where I can clearly notice there's too little gas.
I have this regulator:
http://www.oxyturbo.it/uk/dettaglio.php3?id=123
It is rather cheap, but it does have two gauges, which is desirable. Problem is, I suspect that it is very inaccurate. Up until very recently, I've just adjusted flow to about 10 l/min, and I've had no problems...
I am flattered by your comments. Thanks!
@weldequip: Making 50 of those would take me forever, I spent the best part of four evenings on that thing... :welder:
And regarding the Kemppi, I did an experiment trying to weld some 10 mm steel together. I prepped with a V, and butt-welded the...
The welder is a Kemppi Minarcmig 150 Adaptive. It is inverter-based, and is small and light (less than 10 kg). Works really well.
Regarding placement of the wheels, I initially thought they should be at the back to make sure that even a heavy bottle could not tip the cart, but in retrospect I...
I got a welder for Christmas, and naturally my first project was to make a welding cart. This is how it ended up:
Link to full-size image
It turned out quite ok, I think. I am also very pleased with the welder, it is really nice.
I agree with all of that, an I am in fact buying for hobby/DIY. However, here in Norway the price difference is quite a lot higher than the equivalent of a couple hundred pounds. The 180 is close to twice the price of the 150, and that is just too much for me to justify.
The 150 costs me...
I would of course agree that the 180 is the preferred one of the two, but it is also much more expensive. My question about actually needing full manual control still stands.
When it comes to ss and al, I have been led to believe that this is nothing more than clever marketing from Kemppi to...
I have a Kemppi Minarcmig 150 on order, I can't afford (or justify buying) the 180. However, the 150 is "automatic" only, meaning you can't directly adjust power and wire speed. Instead you have one control for material thickness and one for arc length. To me, that actually sounds better than...
I have now sent it back for a refund. I decided that I didn't want a machine with a live wire, and I will now probably buy a Kemppi MinarcMig 150 Adaptive instead. Probably a much, much better machine, and it it also very light and small.
Thanks for the answer!
The only thing that bothers me slightly is that the welder seems to always have a live wire/nozzle. I would prefer it if power was only applied when the trigger was pulled, but I suppose it is possible to live with a live wire also (pun intended).
Hi all,
I am pretty new to welding (haven't welded for years), but I have been thinking about getting a welding machine for some time now. As it turns out, I got one for Christmas, but I know next to nothing about this manufacturer. I am unsure if I should keep it or return it for a refund...