Picture here of a Citroen AX thats suffered a bit from the first foot or so sitting in some bushes. The inner wings in bad nick but I have some good cuts (parts pictured in blue) from a donor car. I just wanted to ask if there was a trick I was missing with regards to measuring/cutting/matching...
The absolute fear - thankfully unfounded - when spinning a car for the first time and hoping your brackets are well made enough!
Car now spun and I could see the damage; common area on 106/Saxos, where idiots assume that small panel is a jacking point, attempt to jack the car up but then wonder...
My mates brother works there and told us. I had a look and found it on their site in T&C at one point. Cracking tools for the money, I know guys stocking up pro toolboxes with their stuff as - in their words - a lot of the snap-on stuff is going downhill quality wise.
Funny you saying that, I was on holiday in Brittany last year and went to a scrapyard (because that's what you do on holiday, right?) and some of the cars in the scrappy would've been good for another 10-20 years here! I saw next to none of them with any sort of meaningful rust, though I did see...
Some time has passed since I last touched this! Had umpteen other car projects on the go in the meantime, some of which were a 106 Rallye, a Saxo VTS that I built up for my mate, an AX GT, and Im now currently doing an AX GTi and a BX 16v! Its not a hobby, its an addiction...
Some more rust...
as others have said, don't persist with that manky wire unless you unspool loads of it and its PRISTINE some layers down.
...that said, for all a 5kg wire spool would set you back, why hamper yourself. New spool of wire and its about 20 quid spent that wont be wasted and it comes with the bonus...
That's slightly similar to the way iodine tablets can help avoid radiation sickness if dealing with Iodine isotopes: the thyroid can only deal with so much iodine at once, so if you flood your system with inert/safe iodine, the thyroid cant uptake iodine isotopes (it doesn't see any difference...
Those top middle welds are WAAAAAY better! Id suggest sorting out your earth clamp lead as its looking a bit tired and a good earth makes all the difference when Migging, and turning off the spot weld timer may make a massive difference too.
Good progress! (apart from charring holes in your...
No problem man. I cut my teeth on Saxos, 106s and AXs, so I thought it would be a great idea to learn how to weld properly. Glad I did as I find it massively rewarding (not to mention way cheaper lol) to actually complete a welding job nicely and go "I did that".
Check youre getting a tell-tale...
that looks like half the problem - if Im reading the gauge right! - that you have plenty of gas, but none of it flowing through the regulator.
As others have said, don't rush into it. Read all the tutorials/how to guides and practice practice practice. I look back at some of the welding I did...
Will have a swatch. I could probably bolt through the rear slam panel to attach the main bar, then make a couple of spars to attach to the rear axle mounts underneath.
Given how little a seriously stripped shell will weigh, Im not sure itd need to be a super heavyweight support frame!
Hmm, may be possible at the back, though Im not sure the panels that hold the rear bumpers at the sides are really that robust. Small French 90s hatch! I think the rear bumper mounts mainly through the boot slam panel.
Hi all, hope youre all well and not too bored of the situation!
Ive a CJ autos NBN chassis roller that Im intending to use. At the front (Peugeot 106) there are four m8 bolts that I can use to attach the front bar to, but Im not really sure sure how best to attack the rear of the car as there...