hi gaz, yeah managed to have a look, see diagram, I don't mind losing space no problem
floor has now been raised with 5mm resilient tape on joist and new frame, definitely less thud now but I know this won't cure all the noise, certainly a good start though!
thanks
Only got round to investigating the party wall today....
I cut a square out of the plasterboard then was afraid to carry on in case the 3rd layer was actually the neighbors wall :laughing:
So then went skirting level...
Turns out there is a 100mm stud wall between us
They put 3 layers of 15mm...
figured it would be better uncompacted, those little air pockets supress the noise I guess
happy to try anything if cheap and effective, but yeah vermiculite could be a messy job and not worth it
yeah I read they went bust
hi dapph, thanks for posting!
I never knew vermiculite could be used for sound proofing!
No doubt I'll be building stud walls next to further reduce noise, so could be an option to fill wall with vermiculite, as I would have access to I guess you could fill from the top and compact it for more...
could be a through build, but these houses were definitely built as intended, for families and not converted, they were brand new in 1997 I think.
you would expect joist hangers! and nice blockwork internal walls, no chance guess they were on tight budget!!! :laughing:
iirc David McLean were...
thanks for the help gaz
its not a council house, it was built by a social housing association, still your right though poor build quality.
Yeah no problem with pics I'll post some tomorrow :thumbup:
Thanks for the help, there is alot of noggins and services, I still think its easier to go on top of joists, rather than the side, plus alot of cutting etc
I can double up on the tape where the joists/frame intersect, only mentioned 3x2 as it seems the cheapest option
thanks
Thanks for the help
good points :thumbup: will leave out the plasterboard then for the moment
I have a change of thought doing it this way, the problem I got is you would have to use 100mm resilient tape for the bottom/sides and I've already bought the tape only enough to
put on top of...
Nice, thanks for the help,
Ok gaz, I will try this method using
2 x 2 (50 x 50mm)
2 x 1.75 (50 x 45mm)
good point on attaching it to opposite side of joist
going to use 100mm insulation but should I install plasterboard also
thanks
get great results with just Step 3 - Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax Liquid but with a machine polisher and lambs wool mop
but you really need a machine polisher for the best results (with an adjustable RPM),
ie G3 first, TFR, then the wax/buff
Thanks! Is there something magic about using metal resilient bars or could you use wood and gain the same effect?
I've got the floor boards up and cut a 5mm gap around the perimeter of room. My thinking is, the more mass above the joists would equal less 'Thud' coming through floorboards...
The...
Hi gaz
no no never a through house gaz, there is about 50 houses on this estate all built like this circa 1996, these were social houses built from new to rent out, then sold on at later date when they allowed people to buy them... Definitely no blockwork between party wall, just foiled backed...
Thanks for the information and posts!
I will try the acoustic insulation/plasterboard idea on the floor, with no metal channel furring (don't see the point of these if using no fixings), acoustic battens (homemade) running opposide direction to joists to create a floating floor with...
Thanks for the advice
Sounds like a good plan, if I install those battens then I am thinking do I actually need the metal channel furrings, as the floorboard fixings would attach to the battens, another thought should I not bother screwing down floor boards at all and just glue them together...
Yes the issue is from noisy neighbours, its mainly their backdoor being forcefully closed that wakes me up early hours, as there is no blockwork between party walls just timber frame.
Thanks