Yea feeder is seperate, adapter cable coing from powerunit to the feeder. so i had to actually take the electrode positive. from the ground exit on the front. and put it in to the ''electrode posetive in the feeder, (just had the pluss sign there.)
( basicly the polarity to the gun) and then put...
hmm. isnt anny way for me to change polarity on the mig. not that ive found that is. but this might be the solution. cuz ive tried everything. and i think the kemppi fastmig machine is default on electrode (-)
the aws code is on every packgage. its just behind the en number.
like this
Classifications:
AWS A5.1
E7018-1 H4R*----> here u have it all. strengt possition slag and the hydrogen output. but what people know here usually is '' we sell alot of p48 electrode. and the welder say. ''ive been...
if i have a corner joint and one flat is flat and one goes down verticaly i just use gravity and aim downwards with my gun and kinda make it meld down to the bottom plate.
Hi. im a self thought welder. and i work in a small shop where we take alot of different work. welding
hardox, cast iron, and alu
and everything i wonder for the next day i google. or youtube. or like hardox i had to read on sertan websites.
and how i found it is that when i read the packgages...
Hay, i know its 400 posts about this but im welding with a 350 amp kemppi fastmig and i set up a new program. but the problem is that the program only asked me if im using 17 % co2. and i had to klick it. after putting 70s6 steelwhire.
it welds sputtery and it penetrates wary good. i think...
the minarch 200 is rated at 240 amps. have the same issue. i cut a breaker and i switched to 32 amp fuse. phase and it helped alot. but still it does that thing.
old thread. i know !
im sorry for the slow answer. i welded on both dc negative and dc positive just to check, but the AC was for some strange the best way to the the slag off, im thinking it might be becaus the heat input can be more limited and that the slag dont MELT in the same way. havent gotten to test it more...
that where brand new when welded. right from the store and used right after opening. that's why I was sure that would peel. but I had to smash just like 7016 rods. if not more cuz it was thicker slag
yea, that are ok48 and I was pushing the rod pretty in there. the welds came out nice and all, just the slag wasn't behaving as expected, the fat short weld was AC and might been a little longer arch length, but slag at least came off easy.
so I bought a pack of 1718, but when I welded the slag was frankly difficult to get of. but it was thick tho. what could be the reason for this? hotrolled or unclean surface?
I tried welding on AC and then the slag came off much easier. but I didn't feel it penetrated the same.
the small...
I hope for hes sake its steel, or else even trying fixing it would be far fetched.
nickel is the best way to go if a repair is to be done.. good luck, and take some photos. im sure this ir a more rare repair and some photos wil make the forume even more rich :)
cast steel should be fine just using normal steel filler. cast iron is the real crap material to work with.
u can keep using ur gas blowtorch to cool it off, just reheat it here and there and make sure it cools of slowly,
i've seen various brazing with copper fillers. but i think more...
im sure u will get the things done, just have in mind, as u get things done you will want more ''gimmik''.
starting with welding is just gonna be a constant '' i want this, i want that '' tig, mig. fillers of all sorts, it can be a curse and a blessing :P
i tried welding like this a long time ago with 7016 rods, on electrode negative. and it did not work however i had the amp and no metter how tight arc, just blobbed off.
could this have been that i had it on electrode negative ? cuz i changed it some days later cuz i thought machine changed the...