Cheers everyone :) Mike I will probably keep the bottle in the corner of the garage and have a decent length of flexi to it as I dont keep it out all the time. The weight of the chuffing thing should be enough to hold a monster bottle :D
So plan is new:
Steel liner up to the tip
New Springy...
Thanks for the help everyone its much appreciated. The welder is a Clarke 120 Mk1 (I think) attached is a pic of the old girl. I bought it off a chap on here a few years back and looking at his previous posts its not the original torch.
I've sorted a few electrical probs out with it and now...
So do we think its worth replacing for summit newer or just buy a new shroud tips etc...... Also should this swan neck have a liner? If so which bit should separate?
Cheers for the replies BTW :)
Hi all,
Just wondering if anybody knows of any other makes which will fit the torch in the pics?
I've been looking for new bits but the actual neck seems to be pretty rare. From other pics I've googled the neck should have a liner in but I can't seem to separate the business end to shove...
Thanks for the replies. To be honest I didn't back purge it but I did set the amps so it didn't penertrate all the way through.
The inside of the pipe looks quite decent except for a small section were the pipe had a small gap and I had to add filler.
Unfortunately its not possible to get...
Hi all,
I have recently welded some boost pipework together and noticed there is a small amount of sugaring.
Is there anything I can soak the pipe in to remove it?
Cheers Pete.
Aidank- the machine is a 110v inverter with stick/tig output D/C. Its got a few fancy settings on it like hot start and arc force. Its very nice to use compared to my old buzz box.
Drains- So your saying to use slightly lower amps than what I'd use on flat etc.....
PTvor- The rods we...
With the amps lower I did find the arc would sort of fizzle out then stick to the metal.
Will try out with higher amps and also practice the technique if I can tomorrow. thanks again for the advice.
I naturally assumed you would turn the amps down, so with 2.5 6013 welding 3mm 2" box section I would usually use 80amps. For this use 85-90amps with a tight arc and the above technique?
Cheers for the help, I will try and get as much practice in as poss.
Yes I would say my flat welding is fairly decent considering I am not an actual welder. I do fabricate stuff in work and at home but taught myself using an £11 buzz box off ebay :D
Cheers for the replys chaps. So I should forget this method for now and concentrate on the pause at the side, flick pause at the side method?
I just find it pure luck as to whether the weld goes well or it goes Pete tong and falls off down my sleeve :doh:
Downhill. I know its probably not a good structural weld its just compared to my attempts at up hill with the pause flick pause technique it looks better than my normal flat welding :whistle:
I can usually avoid doing vertical as I can manipulate the workpiece but I would like to be able to...
Hi all,
Recently while trying to get the hang of welding vertically (and making a reet mess of it) I tried the following
Putting the rod at the top of the joint, angling the rod quite steep in the direction of travel and using the rods flux just kind of press the rod into the joint...
I know its not going to help your project but the pump I use for my veg oil is called a Tam105. It can handle heat, can be stripped (never personally done it) and will pump 30lpm.
They are 240v though if thats a prob?