when you open up the machine and look inside at the back of the switch were all wires connect there should be a serial number/type, with that and the help of mr google u should be able to find replacement.The identity code will be on the part of switch nearest to machine front. It might be...
you could do a lot with a inverter welder once you get the hang of it, steel+ stainless just by changing rods. Dont rush into buying anything until u check warrantys.. but practice makes perfect
Thanks a million desmo, i will check them out as tec arc were unable to supply manual /wiring diagram..They offered to fix- service £80/£150 but thats out the question as it would cost 3 times that to send-return the machine
Thanks Rig Pig im waiting for a reply from Tec Arc...My machine is earlier than yours mike its 1986 with one 6 step volt switch which i think is S16, hopefully tec arc will clarify. other than that its a v well built machine with spot weld timer, burnback control + 100% duty cycle @ 125 amp
I recently bought this machine knowing it had a couple of "quirks", not surprising considering it was made in 1986 but its only had bodyshop use nowt heavy plus i couldnt resist for £100....Live torch and mole grips used as selector button are my problem plus it was made pre internet and oxfords...
i recently used jb weld metal epoxy to fit 1 3/4 bsp pipe flange onto my 5hp briggs and stratton engine, no problem no leaks. i used it in january to repair the engine side casing for my c90 after i left it outside the local on xmas eve and storm blew the damn thing over and the footrest bent...
Another process to try for permenant rust removal is oxalic acid.. google it.. its a lot less messy than electrolisis and doesnt harm chrome.ideal for motorbike exhausts, handlebars+ wheels.2kg=£25 on evil bay .